Pi overheating after soldering?
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Hello. So, I wanted to Solder an LED to my Pi. The LED worked, but after that my Pi didnt want to start anymore. I unsodered the LED, still didnt work. After some Time my Pi started again, but it overheats in like 20 seconds, and I dont know what causes that.
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@darkside1305 Maybe you installed a script to monitor the GPIO status for your LED and it consumes your CPU. Use the
top
command to see what processes are over-using the CPU and causing the PI to overload. -
@mitu Nope, never installed a script for that. My Pi overheats before it even boots into retropie.
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@darkside1305 please describe where exactly you soldered on your pi? Have you bridged tracks with solder? Was the LED rated 5V? or something else?
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@rbaker I used a standard LED out of an PC Case. Never thought about V there. I soldered it to one 5V and one Ground pin. And no, I didnt bridge anything.
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@darkside1305 Yes but where did you solder? What +5V pin and what 0V pin? Any kind of short circuit across the Pi could have devastating consequences. If you soldered an LED directly across the power rails, did you use a resistor in series with it? You should. 330 ohms. You should also look at alternative ways.
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@rbaker Im not sure, but I think I used Pin 39 and 2.
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@darkside1305 Should be ok then with a resistor. They are connected directly to the Pi's power input and will provide the full current of your mains adaptor. Please supply more information about your setup...https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first
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@rbaker I just wanted to give you some extra Information, yeah. I have an standard PC power switch soldered to my Pi. I now just noticed, that my Pie is stuck in a Boot-loop. None of the Cables or the GPIO Pins connect in any way, the only real "problem" I see that theres some solder left on the Pins that doesnt touch anything, and some lightly molten Plastic where the Reset Switch is soldered to, and at the GPIO Base.
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@darkside1305 So now you have a switch? Soldered where? linked to the LED how? You must provide exact information if you want help. Did you short 1 and 2 together during soldering by accident? Did you solder with the power on? What PSU are you using? Did you use a resistor? Where is the switch?
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@DarkSide1305 Also, a boot loop is commonly associated with an inadequate power supply.
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Ok, the Switch is soldered to the 2 Holes labelled "Run", the LED isn't connected to my Rasperry Pi anymore. I removed it. Beetween 1 and 2 the base is slightly molten, but no solder is connected beetween these 2. I did not solder with the Power On. I use the standard Raspberry Pi PSU. I do not use a Resistor. The Switch is in my Case.
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@rbaker Also, my Pi worked just great with only the Reset Switch, no problems at all. After I soldered the LED, my Pi didnt wanted to start anymore (the LED wokred) and after removing the LED, the Pi didnt start for a while. After that I got these problems.
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@darkside1305 Which Pi? Standard PSU? What is it rated at in A? 2.5A? The RUN port is like a reset. Shorting the 2 pins will start the RPi from a shutdown state. Useful to easily restart the RPi from a shutdown/ halt state instead of having to disconnect and reconnect power. You can install a 2 pin header or wires to a momentary type switch - is this what you have done?
Do not use the RUN reset on a running system though unless the system has already crashed and is not responsive. If you do, it's the same as removing / restoring power and may corrupt the SD if done on a properly running system and cause your issues. There are many other dedicated ways to safely achieve this.
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@rbaker I use the Raspberry Pi 3 Type B, and I just used the PSU that came with It. And yes, 2,5 A Output.
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@rbaker And no to the 2 Pin Header. I just got a Standard PC Power Switch, removed the Isolation, and sodered the Cable on the other end of the 2 Holes. As I said, the Pi worked fine before I soldered the LED.
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@darkside1305 How do you power off and what are you using the switch for?
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@rbaker I usually power off the Pi through Emulation Station, with the "Shutdown System" Option. I sodered the Switch to the Pi since it gave a more "realistic" feel to have a working Reset Button on my N64 Case, and when the Pi freezes to just press the Button and not unplug the Power.
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@darkside1305 ok so shutdown is the correct way. When you said that the pi stopped working for a while, it could be that your soldering technique overheated the devices fuse which takes time to recover. The continual booting cycle suggests some sort of corruption or power issue. What image? remember https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first, this is why we ask for this info to prevent continual questions.
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@rbaker Sorry, what do you mean with Image? The Image (iso) I put on my Pi? If thats what you mean, I think my Pi should currently have RetroPie 4.3 and I used the standard Image you get from the official Site.
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