You can install RetroPie to a USB 3.0 stick + USB 3.0 cable. I believe it will work. I have boot RetroPie from a USB 2 stick with 80cm USB cable and it was working.

Thank you guys. They do look awesome dont they.

@blob84 said in sell legally arcade cabinets with coin acceptor:

For example if I want to build and sell a cabinet for doom 2, which is glp, can I sell it to everyone who own a bar or an arcade room etc. ?

Doom source code (the game engine) is open source (GPL), but the game content is not. Same with Quake1/2/3 or Doom3 - the game engine is open source and free to distribute, but the game content is not.
There are other open sourced games that follow the same patten (i.e. VVVVVV, Duke 3D) - their engine may be open source, but the game's content (maps/levels/art/sound/etc.) is not. That's why they're still on sale today and selling them requires a license/agreement with the game's publisher/owner - the open source nature of the engine doesn't guarantee free distribution of the game.

Update: After a pause to address some other stuff around the house I was finally able to rebuilt some of the internals of the Roadcase Cocktail Cabinet. The most recent work items included:

Remove USB Hub, replaced by. . . Mount Meanwell 5v PSU Reroute all USB connections (make longer USB cables) for arcade controls direct to Pi4. Rewire audio and LEDs directly to PSU (instead of USB hub) for power Rewire the mains AC to incorporate a split—Power the Pi transformer and a GPIO-triggered relay Mount and wire the relay in a project box to power the display and PSU (which in turn powers the audio and the LEDs. Remount audio amp, reroute speaker wires. Update my Python script to trigger the relay on another GPIO pin.

It was a lot, but I had to keep it all straight and do everything at once. Before this step, I had a USB hub tying the spinners and trackball controls to the Pi, but also providing power. This was not necessary with a small and cheap PSU. It cleared up some of the bulky power transformers and removed some hardware, but replaced it with other stuff. In the end, this is a bit more complex, but the controls are now plugged in directly to the Pi and I have a relay turning on and off the display.
94C5DDCA-26D6-4826-B968-C6FA03A836D9.jpeg 151A3145-DE7C-45FC-A677-3A48864E164B.jpeg

@adamguest1985

If you're good and comfortable with house wiring, I've found the best way to build a cabinet is to install a powerstrip internally then open it and extend the switch to a 20a 120v hard-mounted external switch, like the original cabinets had. In fact, you can actually use the original switches to be honest, they ran on 120v systems. I normally replace them just for reliability sake.

Once you do this, everything is left as "wake on power", or left switched "ON". Even the Pi can work this way, but will need a proper shutdown process to turn it off. Everything else in the cabinet will remain off when power is off, then immediately turn on when the main power strip is energized (Lights, LEDs, Audio, Monitor.. etc... just like an original cabinet did. When I build a cabinet, my goal is Old School.. I like it all on at once, and ready to play...all discrete and hidden so you can't tell it's a PC or modern electronics.

Again, not saying to do this, but I am very comfortable designing and working with power, so it's not an issue for me.

Best,

JamR

@solecize oh yeah I remember those days. The original restoration/conversation of my BerZerk cabinet was done in late 2000, just when Ultimarc and all the I-Pacs were coming out. I remember I was going to do the keyboard hack, but bought one of the first versions of the I-Pac. My first spinner was a trackball and HD bearing hack that worked pretty good. That cabinet saw a few refreshes, one being the upgrading of the control panel, then the computer which was done multiple times. Lol.

I basically love the hobby and I really enjoy seeing guys restore the old cabinets. With all the great graphics available out there we don't have to make our own stencils any more. Lol. It was fun and challenging, but I'm happy to just buy the stuff now and save on the time.

Good luck with the restoration, I'm still finishing Gorf and BerZerk will once again be refreshed. I'm trying to source the original metal control panel, or if I have to, I'll make one myself.

If you need any help, let me know. Having just done it, it's all still fresh on my mind.

@crush Hah, I have the same one for more than 10 years now. Its a great wheel and still works perfectly. 👍

@discgolferusa
Very nice. I like the marquee and the fact that your controls are spaced out enough that you won't be rubbing elbows with player 2.

@clyde Thanks! Over the years I had a lot of time to think about creative solutions to problems in the build. I never anticipated taking it as far as I eventually did (you can tell the original design was quite simple). But I'm happy with it now. Maybe someday I'll try something more advanced, like rebuilding a classic cabinet in need of saving or something.

@h2805270

WOW these look great'

thanks

BTW this interface is taking some getting used to so if i double post, i apologize in advance, took 4 tries to get the first one :)

Don't know where you're at, but try to find a decent digital print house, or like a commercial advertisement (sign) manufacturer. Preferably one that operates with a cnc router. they really shouldn't rob you over a small piece of acryl / plexiglass. a cheaper alternative is to use foamed pvc. they come in a bunch of colors, sizes, can be bent, cutted with a Stanley knife etc. Good luck

@impman66 I just got lucky that my DIY cabinet kit had pre-milled grooves for the bezel, so it can be exchanged easily (well, relatively, because you'll either have to remove one of the side boards of the cabinet , or bend the bezel until it snaps into place). Being no handyman at all, it would be impossible for me to make the grooves by myself. 😉

That said, I never changed the bezel to this day, because I just like the simple black blackness too much. 😁

@m2306 said in cabinet project:

I used an lcd screen but regret not going with a crt for a more authentic retro feel. The crt would have made it super heavy though.

and a lot larger ... mostly depth wise

You made a good work.

@Voljega Updated the post with names, plus included a list of games currently working on it. I run advmame 1.4 with 0.106 ROM set. - ws

@wstanek Not every vertical game is 4-way, though. Many arcade SHMUPs are vertical and 8-way. But with either the xboxdrv (item 2D) or switchable Joysticks like the Ultimarc Mag-Stik Plus (I have two of them built into my upright cabinet, see my review here), that wouldn't be an issue.

@Clyde