Don't know where you're at, but try to find a decent digital print house, or like a commercial advertisement (sign) manufacturer. Preferably one that operates with a cnc router. they really shouldn't rob you over a small piece of acryl / plexiglass. a cheaper alternative is to use foamed pvc. they come in a bunch of colors, sizes, can be bent, cutted with a Stanley knife etc. Good luck
@impman66 I just got lucky that my DIY cabinet kit had pre-milled grooves for the bezel, so it can be exchanged easily (well, relatively, because you'll either have to remove one of the side boards of the cabinet , or bend the bezel until it snaps into place). Being no handyman at all, it would be impossible for me to make the grooves by myself. 😉
That said, I never changed the bezel to this day, because I just like the simple black blackness too much. 😁
@wstanek Not every vertical game is 4-way, though. Many arcade SHMUPs are vertical and 8-way. But with either the xboxdrv (item 2D) or switchable Joysticks like the Ultimarc Mag-Stik Plus (I have two of them built into my upright cabinet, see my review here), that wouldn't be an issue.
By the way, I always wondered why those restrictor rings can't be moved more smoothly.
I think the answer to that is a result of the industry we are building from. Back in the day it was good to have joysticks configurable so they apply to more game types but they were expected to be used in one configuration in the cabinet
I think you have a point there. Even in today's retro gaming community, cabinets that are dedicated to specific controls are not uncommon.
I wouldn't be surprised (or mind that much) if someone started producing new plates based on the above modification. I briefly thought about it but decided that the other overhead items that I would need to put in place first over rode any profit I might make on such a small item.
Also, the existing plates are most likely patented, so you would have have to design a new plate from scratch, get permission from the patent holders, or risk being sued.
This video explains the majority of arcade joysticks on the market.
A extremely detailed website about joysticks and button layouts is slagcoin.com. Its creator approaches the topic with almost scientific commitment.
Another thing about the buttons you're considering: They have microswitches that make rather noisy clicks every time they're pressed and released. If you don't like that (I don't), you should look for leaf switches which are somewhat less durable but nearly inaudible. Alternatively, there are "silent" microswitches that are promoted as (nearly) noiseless, but they are more expensive and I don't have any experience with them.
The choice of speakers depends on your quality standards. I didn't like the sound of cheap speakers. Now I'm happy with wideband speakers for 30€ each. See my Asteroids-themed cabinet for a picture of them where you can see their brand and model.
@alturis I think @johnny5126 means a power strip with one "master" socket and a number of "slave" sockets. If the device connected to the master socket draws power, the slave sockets will be powered by the strip automatically.