I'm at my wits' end here. I've tried blacklisting the device to prevent it being grabbed by usbhidby creating /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist.conf and adding to it : blacklist usbhid No dice. I've tried creating: /etc/udev/rules.d/99-disable-usb-hid.rules and adding to it: SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", DRIVERS=="usbhid", ATTRS{idVendor}=="045e", ATTRS{idProduct}=="028e", ACTION=="add", ATTR{authorized}="0" No dice. Before that, tried adding an /etc/udev/rules.d/ ruleset with: SUBSYSTEM=="usb",ATTRS{idVendor}=="045e", ATTRS{idProduct}=="028e", MODE="666", GROUP+="plugdev" No dice. The end result is always the same, reboot after reboot. I've tried looking at other conf files in /etc/udev/rules.d/to see that there are no conflicts. I have two identical controllers at my disposal I've tried plugging them in one at a time. Adding to that, I've tried this with FOUR identical controllers, all of which work 100% plug'n'play in Windows 7. The controller's analog LED light lights up for a few seconds and then shuts off. Here's what lsusb -v -s 001:009 shows : pi@retropie:~ $ lsusb -v -s 001:009 Bus 001 Device 009: ID 045e:028e Microsoft Corp. Xbox360 Controller Couldn't open device, some information will be missing Device Descriptor: bLength 18 bDescriptorType 1 bcdUSB 2.00 bDeviceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class bDeviceSubClass 255 Vendor Specific Subclass bDeviceProtocol 255 Vendor Specific Protocol bMaxPacketSize0 64 idVendor 0x045e Microsoft Corp. idProduct 0x028e Xbox360 Controller bcdDevice 1.10 iManufacturer 1 iProduct 2 iSerial 0 bNumConfigurations 1 Configuration Descriptor: bLength 9 bDescriptorType 2 wTotalLength 48 bNumInterfaces 1 bConfigurationValue 1 iConfiguration 0 bmAttributes 0x80 (Bus Powered) MaxPower 500mA Interface Descriptor: bLength 9 bDescriptorType 4 bInterfaceNumber 0 bAlternateSetting 0 bNumEndpoints 2 bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class bInterfaceSubClass 93 bInterfaceProtocol 1 iInterface 0 ** UNRECOGNIZED: 10 21 10 01 01 24 81 14 03 00 03 13 02 00 03 00 Endpoint Descriptor: bLength 7 bDescriptorType 5 bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN bmAttributes 3 Transfer Type Interrupt Synch Type None Usage Type Data wMaxPacketSize 0x0020 1x 32 bytes bInterval 4 Endpoint Descriptor: bLength 7 bDescriptorType 5 bEndpointAddress 0x02 EP 2 OUT bmAttributes 3 Transfer Type Interrupt Synch Type None Usage Type Data wMaxPacketSize 0x0020 1x 32 bytes bInterval 8 pi@retropie:~ $ All help appreciated. This is especially infuriating as I already got this thing to work once with one controller, tried to get it working with two controllers of the same kind, and it all went to hell. * one huge sigh * Am I completely on a wrong track here if I'm thinking that perhaps the device ID should be added into the boot config file or somewhere alike as separately blacklisted or as an USB HID exception? Or, does the actual problem run deeper somewhere on the Raspbian/Linux kernel level? That's what a lot of my attempts to search further into the USB HID device issues w/ Linux altogether would suggest. One plausible culprit might also be that since the controller ( http://piranha-gamer.com/product/piranha-pc-ps2-ps3-controller/ ) is listed as a "PC/PS2/PS3" controller, it might auto-select its operating mode accordingly between PC and PS mode upon being plugged to an USB port. Then again, that doesn't explain how it has worked earlier from time to time (or, should I say, from RetroPie update to RetroPie update) without any problems whatsoever.

@ivooc It's not related, the DS4 uses BT exclusively and doesn't need the sixaxis driver.

@leitmotiv You can use the same topic, it's up to you if you want to use another forum or not - you might try the AdvanceMAME forums.

@marcel151 There is a regression in the latest Linux stable kernel regarding bluetooth connections - you'll either have to wait for an update or downgrade your OS packages (kernel+firmwarre) as shown here.

Just tried a few with the (re-)modified configs/all/retroarch.cfg : Atari 800 now uses the analog stick only - with whatever assignment (digital or analog) N64 seems to do the right thing now: only the analog sticks work In PSX only the dpad works So all in all, quite a weird combination which doesn't seem to make too much sense. @mitu said in (PS3) Controller configurations across different emulators: Actually, not all is lost (well, not so dramatically). While it may not be an option for the emulator, you can trick it by re-modelling your controller - Xboxdrv. It does require more setup work though. Will see. For now I guess I will stay with the analog stick working as dpad option. Either way, only one emulator does it wrong then (N64) besides PSX which seems to do it wrong all the time, while then at least I have the choice of using one or the other control with all remaining emulators. By the way, after switching off this analog=dpad mapping, In Vice still both controls worked, which makes full sense because in Vice's configuration screen you can define the dpad and analog controls separately - in a working manner ;-) EDIT: The challenge for the PSX emulations is probably the fact that the analog version of the PS controller was released "belated" in 1997, a long while after the PSX was released (by that time only with a digital controller). There weren't too many game titles also which actually supported the analog controller feature, and those who did obviously did that with regional limitations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_Analog_Controller All in all a relatively complicated topic, which might explain in a way why analog support works quite well in the N64 emulations (where an analog controller was provided natively) and not so well in the PSX ones. There for the most part, it seems to depend on the game itself and even its country code, if Dual Analog Controller or even Dual Shock Controller support actually works. The latter one does for me in a few games, e.g. Driver II, but then again the real analog stick support I couldn't get to work, neither for this nor any other PSX game.

@Koolhass I don't think you're getting anywhere. I'm sorry to say but it's your fault, not sony. If you just want to sue the shop that sold you the gamepad as "genuine" you can, of course, but nothing more. Sony has nothing to do with this, I'm sure they are quite aware of these shitty gamepads. If you don't think you can differentiate a legit pad from a fake one bring a friend to the store when you go buy one, to avoid further surprises :)

@mitu Thank you, I will definitely look into this and test it out this weekend. I apologize for not replying sooner, I have not been getting site notifications for some odd reason.

@sanbadgerdude Take a look at https://github.com/anqixu/sixad_rumble or http://wiki.ros.org/ps3joy. Your topic has nothing to do with RetroPie, maybe it's better to start with the links above and see if it helps you.

@billyh Try it first. I have two PS3 controllers (original) and RPi3 and it works good for me. Played for like 2 hours straight with my brother without any issues. There is other issue with PS3 controller though - if I let it idle for a few minutes, the daemon (service) responsible for connecting with the controller hangs and I canßt get it back to working condition (I may be able through command line or SSH, haven't tried though). From what I read this issue gets resolved by using USB BT dongle...

@dceric Turn off your wifi and you will get Bt working fine with both controllers

@help-me-please can your pocket juice supply a regulated 5V at 2.5A? That worries me.

@psyke83 thanks my dude im still really new

Wireless is appealing for the simple reason that's it has no wires. If I was playing on an old 28" crt that would be one thing but on a 46" led TV I want to sit back on the couch. While there is less lag with wired, I play with PS3 controllers and haven't had any noticeable lag issues. @chigundo As far as wired controllers go, the ibuffalo are perfect for any games not needing analog sticks or triggers (no ps1, no 64). I also recently built a picart for my girlfriend and bought her the pihut snes controllers for under $10 each because she never grew up playing games much and I wasn't sure if it would be good to invest too much. These work really well for the price though the ibuffalo and original controllers are far superior but she doesn't notice a difference not having a history or much game playing. The only real downside is a short cable. She also now loves playing frogget and the classics every night before bed to wind down so I am going to upgrade her to wireless so she can lay in bed instead of having to sit on the edge.

@psyke83 said in Sony DualShock 3 - call for testers: "sixaxis" script module: ... NOTE: If you don't know how to test PRs, then it may be wise not to try testing this, as I'll need some basic technical competence to provide logs, etc., if something goes wrong. ... sorry, but I've just read your note about how to test the driver and I fear that I can't help here. I'm really not familiar with pull requests; and even for basic linux things I need to follow step by step instructions... not knowing what and why I'm typing things in more than 80% of cases.

@funkybunch if you can actually use it, it would be axis 4 +/- for left and right and axis 5 +/- for up and down.

@ckswenson Third Party images with custom configs and pre-loaded ROMs are not supported here. Go ask Mr .Death for tech support.

@sik i thought this was just me. The only emulator it works in is n64 for some reason