The Pi4 and Pi3 are different hardware and have different USB controllers, hence the difference. That's not why your controller behaves this way.
There must be some difference somehow. I tried 2 different controllers: Xbox One Series X controller and Xbox One S controller ("S" not "Series S"). I tried all 4 usb ports. Everything work fine on my Pi 3 but none of them get turned on when my Pi 4 boot.
I think I will move on, anyway I planned to use the Xbox One wireless dongle and buy batteries + a docking station for refilling the batteries, so this problem shouldn't bother me anymore after that. I'm just leaving as much information as possible in case someone else encounter the same problem in the future.
One other question that I've also searched but am not sure how to resolve. In non-Libretro cores, my hotkeys on my controller and keyboard do not work for opening the quick menu to adjust video, configs, etc.
That's because the Hotkey Enable button/functionality is specific to RetroArch/libretro. For each standalone emulator, you'll have to check what options for input are available and how/if they can be adapted to a 'hotkey' schema.
I do have a question about those with bin/cue file formats for PS1. It appears like this because the folders are in the ps1 rom folder, I did not take the contents and just throw them straight into the directory because I like to keep things organized. Are they supposed to be in a folder with their respective bin/cue files?
You don't see the scraper/boxart info until you click on it, this is how they appear so far.
You can convert .bin/.cue sets to .chd using the CHDMAN tool, to clean up your folders to one file per disc (and potentially also save some space.) This will allow you to keep them all in the root psx folder without being too cluttered up with .bin's and .cue's. After this (you might need to re-scrape your games so it associates the new filenames), the menu art should again work as expected: https://retropie.org.uk/docs/CHD-files/#creating-chds-from-cd-roms
Then, for multi-disc games, you can rename the .chd's to .cd1, .cd2 etc. (to hide them from the gamelist) and use .m3u playlist files to clean up your game list menu to one menu item per game. Another advantage of this is on-the-fly disc swapping through the Retroarch menu, and easier save file management (one save file per game, named after the .m3u playlist, instead of a separate file for each disc named after the disc): https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Playstation-1/#m3u-playlists-for-cue-bins-or-chds
Thank you for this thread. I found it AFTER I clicked the button to order my controller! I now have the 8BitDo SN30 Pro+ controller working flawlessly on a Raspberry Pi 4B, with RetroPie 4.7.1 on updated OS.
Before I attempted to pair, the pad was connected via USB to the Ultimate Software application for a firmware update. I also configured a Switch profile, with star(★) as turbo button.
I followed these steps before pairing, too. I consider these safe steps, as it only disables an unused SIM card driver and delays bluetooth start for two seconds at boot.
$ sudo nano /lib/systemd/system/bluetooth.service
$ sudo nano /lib/systemd/system/bthelper@.service
$ sudo rm /etc/udev/rules.d/99-bluetooth.rules
$ sudo reboot
$ sudo /home/pi/RetroPie-Setup/retropie_setup.sh
Configuration / Tools -> bluetooth
power on controller by holding Y + start one second (Switch mode)
hold in pair button for three seconds
leds will rotate like knight rider
Register and Connect to Bluetooth Device
on "Searching" screen, pressing some buttons can help
choose "Pro Controller"
Setup the udev rule
hold start three seconds to turn pad off
turn on controller
I have the pad in Switch mode. To select the profile with turbo, press both sticks (L3+R3) and the heart/home button will light up. Hold a button and press star(★) to enable/disable turbo. It will stay in Switch mode with profile, so now all you have to do is hold the start button to turn it on or off.
Hope that helps. Cheers.
It works fine Smith DS4. Later I'll give it a try using a sixaxis controller. @spaceace thank you so much!!!
I had a pretty bad go of it with this controller. I moved to the ps3controller driver and I did not get that to work per the docs. I tried to sort out which clone I may have, using lsusb, evtest, and dmesg but none gave me any indication other than Sony. So, I tried them all-- Official Sony, shanwan, and gasia. Although I appreciate the info to get additional bluetooth debugging, that project is "crossing the line" with regard to the time I am willing to invest.
Perhaps to make you laugh a bit-- I used retropie for several years with a Logitech F710 controller and an Intellivision Flashback controller. The F710 was getting worn out so I bought another one. It worked terrible! While the new F710 connected no problem, it was very clunky in terms of usability--buttons didn't work quite right, sometimes the control is sticky. Odd! Years ago I had a PS3 and I remember the controller fondly so I thought, I'll try one of those. Needless to say, instead of playing games I'm troubleshooting why this apparently poorly made clone isn't connecting. While the "thrill of the hunt" for the solution to the problem was fun, I'm done.
So, I'm not quite sure which controller I will try next, but the PS3 dualshock clone just found its way to my electronics-recycling box while I sort out my next step.
I had a very similar problem to this thread. I replaced my Pi 3 retropie with a Pi 4 and retropie was behaving in a jittery fashion with Emulation Station and the games weren't smooth. I also have a 4K Samsung Smart TV as did the original poster. Although I wasn't using Amiberry, I was using mame, daphne, and jzintv and I figured the same solution that @gordonfreemanjr used would work for me. So I added the five lines to my /boot/config.txt file that he listed in his "IT WORKS" post but lo-and-behold it did not work for me. tvservice -s was still showing a 4K connection when I expected 1080p.
My solution was simple with a twist. Starting from the stock config.txt, I uncommented and modified the following:
It was necessary for me to add the :0 to get it to work. Now there are no jitters, the motion is smooth, and tvservice -s reports a 1080p connection.