@chriso205 said in OOT + lr-mupen64plus n64 controller config: Not sure how to access this retroarch menu? Hotkey+x will open the retroarch menu while youre in game. Then go to controls and remap as you like and then you can save it as a core remap. Remapping here won't influence your mappings in the standalone emulator because it doesn't use the retroarch controls.

@3dpprofessor Did you install from source or from binary ? Update your RetroPie-Setup script and then re-install the Solarus Engine again.

I don't know if this is the best way, but I did figure out how to change it for this game and disable RetroArch saves to eliminate accidental overwriting. In case anyone else needs this in the future: Create config file based on instructions from here, name will be [ROM NAME with Extension].cfg In that file paste the following with the hotkey button of your choice: #Change Hotkey for this game only input_enable_hotkey_btn = 3 #Disable RetroArch saves input_save_state_btn = null input_load_state_btn = null # Never save-on-exit after an override config # or the override will make into the core config. config_save_on_exit = false

@2stick Did you happen to have the instructions for converting the save file? We're having the same issue with the Lens of Truth.

On this Emulator the game dont start on my Pi. Because of this i Change to rice there the game Work fine. What parameters you set on Mupen64auto? Can i put the safefile from Other Emu on the mupen64

@jediknight36 Use the secrets menu when you start a new game. Thats where you enter the password. no link cable required.

The default N64 emulator is 'mupen64plus-GLideN64'. What you want for Ocarina of Time is 'mupen64plus-gles2rice' You might even be able to use 'mupen64plus-gles2rice-highres' (I use the highres version). It plays well with this emulator, but not as well as Majora's Mask. For Majora's mask you can just go straight to 'mupen64plus-gles2rice-highres', some slight slowdown in the town itself, but flawless everywhere else I could get to in my 2 hours of testing when I was configuring my N64 games a few weeks ago. No overclocking needed.

Hi @sniktun Don't worry, we all have to start somewhere. First of all, when you load the game, it says to configure press a button. If you press a button here, it will take you to the options to change which emulator it uses. I think Mupen64-Glide is normally the default. lr-mupen64plus is not the same as Mupen64, it is the RetroArch port of mupen64 and uses a different video driver. If you want to add extra emulators to the system, the easiest was to do it is from the RetroPie-Setup in the retropie menu. This is also where you can update the emulators to the latest supported version. If you need further assistance, I would suggest completing the details in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first so that we have all the information on your setup. Si

It is March 27th and I just looked and this is officially on Spotify! I am listening to it now!

@zoop @Gosenbach That is the powerblock shield. Here is the link for more info: http://blog.petrockblock.com/2015/07/04/powerblock-another-power-switch-for-the-raspberry-pi/ Powering off the pi will be a safe shutdown, it will invoke sudo shutdown -h now. You just have to push the button to power on/off. No need to shut down ES first.

@moltke44 Drastic has not been updated since. The problem is what @windale said, the microphone emulation hasn't been implemented.

@phrazelle awesome! I will have to download it when i get a chance. I saw your cabinet a long time ago and so badly wanted this theme. Now i can finally have it. Your nes arcade is way too cool. I cant get over it. The nes is my favorite system. Awesome stuff you have done.

Very nice job on those cabinets! Just Beautiful. I personally like the Tron one. ;-) I kinda miss the fighting game cabinet designs. Most guys when they build bar top cabinets they use Nintendo characters or classic arcade game designed decals/bezels. I would love to see a nice Street Fighter or any NeoGeo fighting game designed cabinet. Another thing I wonder is the button layout out. Is that chosen on purpose or just matching the decal design? I cannot imagine to play all too long on such a cabinet without getting wrist pain. When I used to build my own arcade sticks I always went with the Japanese stick and button layouts or the same one like Hori does for their sticks. Check here.