2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages
-
@lilbud said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
As long as you leave a way to plug controllers in without having to take the whole machine apart. Might want to look into a couple of these
Cool, good to hear. I've seen some flush fit usb extensions which I was thinking I might use, something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2m-Car-Truck-Dashboard-Flush-Mount-Dual-USB-Male-to-Female-Extension-Cable/1934037_32484318023.html@backstander said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
2 Player – How many buttons per player (thinking 6 plus coin insert & player?)
Check out this thread:
https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/5220/arcade-buttons-how-many-layoutIt might also be nice to have a wired or wireless keyboard handy for maintenance & troubleshooting.
Or if it will be on your network, you can also SSH into it from another computer.Oh now tha'ts left me even more unsure how many buttons to have...lol. Thanks that's a useful discussion actually and will give me some food for thought.
I have a nice small usb keyboard I can use for troubleshooting etc, and am assuming I could plug it into one of the usb sockets I want for controllers.
-
Another little bit of testing done last night, tried out my HDMI to VGA adapter. Video was fine but I wasn't getting any audio from it. Having done some reading up if I get time this evening I'll try adding to my config to ensure the HDMI is outputting audio as well as video when using the adapter.
As an aside, I tested the 3.5mm jack output for audio as I'd heard they weren't good, I have to say I was not quite prepared for just how bad, really noisy and tinny!
-
Last night I got the audio working on my VGA adapter, simply a case of uncommenting hdmi_drive=2 in my config file.
Next stage will be buying joysticks and buttons to get to grips with those before then moving onto getting the cabinet...sadly this will have to wait until after payday!
-
While I'm waiting for pay day to finally arrive so I can get on and buy my arcade controls etc I wonder if anyone can help me with a couple of queries I have regarding powering the cabinet?
- I'd like to only need to have one plug to plug in for the cabinet and as such I'm planning on connecting a 4-way socket extension like this:
To one of these switched 'kettle' sockets:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/iec-connectors/0815818/
Then I can leave the the pi, monitor and speakers plugged into the multi socket inside the cabinet. Are there any problems with doing this?
- I'm wondering what to do about my monitor, when power is removed (ie it's unplugged) it it goes onto standby when power is restored (plugged back in) and needs the button on the front to be pressed to switch it on, however, once the monitor is mounted and the surround is in place I won't be able to get to the button? what aremy options/ is the best way overcome this issue?
Thanks
-
@valve90210 If you look at mine in this picture, you will see that I used a similar power bar to you. It is important to look at which way up it goes as quite a few power adaptors are fatter at one end unlike a plug. This means that you may end up having power adaptors that when plugged in are opposite to each other - this increases the size of the space needed. I also used this connector like yours. I wired it up and it worked no problem so a good choice there. With regard to the monitor, I found one that comes out of standby when the power comes on so no need to press a button. However, I built in access to the front of the cabinet so I could use the speakers and access the controls if needed. I laser cut some blue acrylic to cover the controls when they were not in use.
-
Thanks, good to know my thinking is ok! That's a very good point re the direction of the powersupplies, the one I have for the pi 3 is a non standard shape and can't go opposite another plug (ie top edge to top edge) as it over hangs, I shall certainly bear this in mind!
Last night I had a good look at the monitor I was planning to use for my cabinet to measure up etc and discovered that the stand which I thought was removeable to leave me with VESA mouting holes actually isn't removeable and there are no VESA holes, so seems like a monitor is another item for the shopping list...
Can anyone recommend a 19inch 4:3 monitor with removeable stand, VESA mounting holes and ideally one that switches on when power is restored to it? (in the UK please)
-
Been trawling ebay trying to snag a bargain 19inch monitor, narrowly missed one over the weekend but I'll get there I'm sure.
In the mean time I'm turning my attention to the input side of things. My current plan is to buy a PowerBlock to simplify the on/off of the machine, and use USB encoders for the arcade buttons.
I've done a lot of looking about and found loads of different sellers offering all sorts of options but I'm not 100% sure on what I'm looking for in a USB encoder. They pretty much all claim to be zero delay which I believe is what I'm looking for but I've seen sets where two joysticks and sets of buttons hook up to one encoder board, and others with two encoder boards, one for each player. Which would be best to get? Also, how many buttons do these boards tend to support per player?
-
It's been a while since I made any progress on my project due to gettign sidetracked with other things (mainly RC cars...:)). However last weekend I did move on a little.
I have now gotten hold of a 19inch 4:3 monitor which has a toggle power switch so it will power on when the cabinet is powered up! :)
Also, my brother has been clearing his loft as he's moving in a few weeks, in doing so he stumbled across an old pair of mains powered active computer speakers that he was just going to dump. Instead I have now stripped them down and tested them, they will work very nicely when I put my cabinet together!! :)
I've hooked up the pi 3 I have with my HDMI to VGA&3.5mm stereo adapter. All working very nicely.
My next step is to buy my buttons etc but I still don't know exactly what I'm looking for in terms of the USB encoders, does anyone have any advice on these?
-
I'm going to recommend that you don't put anything except MAME on it.
Hear me out...
Do you want to stand up to play console games?
Arcade games were designed for a short fix, not protracted gaming sessions.
Console games were designed to be played seated comfortably in your sofa on a screen several feet away.The control schemes are different too, although your idea of usb ports for controllers addresses that problem.
What it doesn't address though is that console games weren't designed to be played on a small screen close to your face, even if you sit at the cabinet to play.I say build two systems. Put a Pi in a case and hook it up to your TV, and keep your arcade machine purely for arcade games.
I have an arcade cabinet (MAME only), a TV console (consoles only) and I am currently building a desktop machine with a monitor for my computer based emulators (Spectrum C64 etc) as these don't lend themselves well to being played on a distant TV with a controller - they need a monitor and a keyboard.
Just some food for thought from someone who has been in exactly your situation a couple of years ago.
-
@valve90210 I used the Xin-Mo control board from eBay with 12 buttons and 2 joysticks as a pack. It works well
-
@UP4IT said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
@valve90210 I used the Xin-Mo control board from eBay with 12 buttons and 2 joysticks as a pack. It works well
Have they got the Xin Mo working ok with the Pi now?
It's what I use in my cabinet, but I built an upright, so I obviously used a PC.
My original cabinet was a bartop with a Pi in it, but I realized that an upright takes up exactly the same amount of space as a bartop and could easily house a PC (MUCH better for MAME).
Thing is, I used to bring my bartop to my Christmas party at work, and I can't do that with my cabinet.
I'm building a 'barstick', which is like a bartop but without a screen, so it will be portable for parties, barbecues etc.
I'm going to use a Pi for this, and I'd like to use a Xin Mo again, so I hope it's just plug & play nowadays.
My last bartop used hacked controllers, which is not something I'm in a hurry to repeat.
-
@jamesbeat I configured it about 6 months ago. It took a little tweaking with USBQuirks I think it was called, other than that it worked great. And it only uses one USB port.
-
@jamesbeat My cabinet is here https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/9980/my-upright-arcade-cabinet-build/9 :-)
-
@UP4IT said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
@jamesbeat My cabinet is here https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/9980/my-upright-arcade-cabinet-build/9 :-)
NICE build!
Here's a link to my build thread on the arcadecontrols forum.
It's actually finished now except for the glass. I really must get round to finishing it and update that thread...http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150023.0.html
-
@jamesbeat Very nice. It is great to see them complete (or almost) I still have to do the front vinyls. Nice job on doing the woodwork yourself. I got mine laser cut for me :-)
-
Yeah, mine just needs tinted glass and speaker grills.
That's the problem with these things - once you get it into a playable state, there's less pressure to get it finished.
I'm planning on using tinted glass to get the effect of the screen 'floating'.
It will go well with the black and white finish when the machine is off.I think you have the same amp as me - it's perfect for this type of thing.
Mine is mounted inside the coin door on top of the coin box.The coin door is real and actually works - there are no buttons for adding coins, you have to drop in a token to get a credit.
This adds an extra layerof realism, and it's fun to watch my wife desperately scrambling around for a token in the middle of a game of Ghosts ''n Goblins or Metal Slug :D
-
@jamesbeat Lol I like it. I can still add a coin slot, but I would be the one having to find the coins for my kids (teenagers and older) and grandson (3). I suppose I could look at it as a piggy bank though lol. I am thinking of maybe doing another one at some point, but probably not this year.
-
@valve90210 said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
It's been a while since I made any progress on my project due to gettign sidetracked with other things (mainly RC cars...:)
That a funny - RC cars are exactly what got me sidetracked from my build too :D
I finally got my hands on a Mardave Meteor, which is a car I had wanted since I was 12.
This was no small feat, because I live in America now, and they were never sold here.
Unfortunately it has a missing rear wheel, and I haven't managed to track one down yet.
-
@UP4IT said in 2 Player Cabinet - Planning stages:
@jamesbeat Lol I like it. I can still add a coin slot, but I would be the one having to find the coins for my kids (teenagers and older) and grandson (3). I suppose I could look at it as a piggy bank though lol. I am thinking of maybe doing another one at some point, but probably not this year.
I just bought a bunch of tokens (500 of them).
I wouldn't use real quarters because I have a feeling they would disappear gradually over time...One day I'd like to get my own custom tokens made.
They only cost about $0.05 each, but the catch is that there is usually a minimum order of 5,000 tokens. -
@valve90210 I use an IPAC4 in my 4-player roadcase cocktail cabinet. I like the IPAC but if I was going to make a two player, I would seriously consider just wiring sticks and buttons directly to GPIO and using a virtual keyboard script like Adafruit's Retrogame software, or mholgatem's GPIOneer--no USB controller needed!
Contributions to the project are always appreciated, so if you would like to support us with a donation you can do so here.
Hosting provided by Mythic-Beasts. See the Hosting Information page for more information.