Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP)
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Today I took the Famicoms out of the buckets and washed them off.
Mine is good enough for me, not 100% white but good enough.
This gave me the chance to finally see if the 8bitdos would fit and....they do.
I think edmaul69s Famicom got a bit better but not good enough. So I changed the setup.
Previously I used a 1:8 ratio this time I used a smaller tray, just enough to fit the Famicom inside and used a 1:2 ratio maybe even more.@edmaul69 I apologize if I should mess up the Famicom. I will look for an equal replacement if that should happen, so no worries.
I don't know what's gonna happen with so much bleach inside it. I also gonna look for a UV llight to speed things up a bit. Weather forecast says rain for the next 2-3 days.Controller fitting
Too much scrubbing with the special sponge :(
@edmaul69 Famicom 2nd try
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@FlyingTomahawk Those melamine sponges are great, but as you saw, they do take a bit of the top off with them. That's great news though about the 8bitdo controllers fitting where the originals used to be.
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@obsidianspider said in Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP):
@FlyingTomahawk Those melamine sponges are great, but as you saw, they do take a bit of the top off with them. That's great news though about the 8bitdo controllers fitting where the originals used to be.
Yeah, those damn sponges are cleaning too good. I didn't rub edmauls Famicom yet so his one is still in same condition when I bought it.
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@FlyingTomahawk I wonder how much the bleach will affect the stickers or red plastic. What's the next step for your build?
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The red plastics and stickers should be fine. Others have done the same.
I got the controllers and today I received the microUSB panel mount cable. I still need the HDMI panel mount and the Pi Zero W then I can start to put the stuff inside it. -
@FlyingTomahawk Do you think you'll be able to attach the panel mounts from the inside without having to drill screw holes? Maybe either glue them to the inside of the case, or hot glue something behind them so they don't move but press up against the outside of the shell… (I may or may not be thinking about how I would build one.)
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@FlyingTomahawk yeah no worries here. Take all the time you need.
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@obsidianspider said in Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP):
@FlyingTomahawk Do you think you'll be able to attach the panel mounts from the inside without having to drill screw holes? Maybe either glue them to the inside of the case, or hot glue something behind them so they don't move but press up against the outside of the shell… (I may or may not be thinking about how I would build one.)
I attached mine from the inside with hot glue, although they are meant to be screwed, I used them as gives a bit more to glue to.
Where needed I trimmed the width of the plug inside, bonus the power was a perfect fit.
I really will get round to sorting all the pics out I have.
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That would be possible I guess.
Not sure how good its gonna hold though. -
@FlyingTomahawk I'm just guessing at this point. I'd have to mess around with one in person to come up with a better strategy.
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@FlyingTomahawk if you use enough hotglue they will hold fine. I have had to hotglue them in several pi mods i have done.
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I only used hot glue, although when you first think the glue has set, it feels a little rubbery to touch, give it a proper hour or 2, and its very solid
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Just woke up and went to check how the Famicom does in its new bleach bath.
The water was getting kinda milky so at first I thought it attacked the Famicoms plastic.
But looking closer it wasn't the Famicom that was beeing attacked but the aluminum tray that I used.
Metal + bleach = not good. Totally forgot about that. So immediately flushed the bleach away.Looks like I'll be shopping again for a new tray (plastic) and new bleach.
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@FlyingTomahawk whoops!! :D
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So I am gonna give this bleach thing a second try today.
Got the box already, plastic this time ;-) , and I am not sure what I should do with that red long Famicom label up front.
Doing some research some guys take that away before bleaching other leave it as is... I am worry that I break it while trying to remove it.
I guess just go for it and see what happens right?I also found these labels here for printing. They came in lcx file format but I converted it to PDF so anyone can print them.
Wish me luck.
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be careful with the bleach, bleach can make some plastics brittle. I have had a cola bottle get eaten away when storing bleach in it. It would be a shame to damage the plastics of your console.
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Thanks for the advice.
It's not 100% bleach like the real strong industrial stuff. But it does attack metal, aluminium and other metallic materials.
Plastic should be OK. Others have done it before and they all had good results. -
@FlyingTomahawk said in Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP):
Thanks for the advice.
It's not 100% bleach like the real strong industrial stuff. But it does attack metal, aluminium and other metallic materials.
Plastic should be OK. Others have done it before and they all had good results.When you say bleach, do you mean Peroxide like the hair lightening stuff?
It's what I used on my Amiga with Vanish stain remover, had it looking good as new, left it for a couple of days when we actually had sunshine.
The two mice where quite discoloured, I gave the one on the left a second bath after that pic
Not the greatest pic, but the 1200 was a lot lot darker than this originally, didn't get a before, but, came out like new, especially the keys, made adding the Compact Flash hard drive and USB 'Floppy' Drive a joy.
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It's not hair bleach.
If you copy and paste these words into google you'll find sites with pics of people that have bleached their Famicoms and other stuff.レトロブライト ファミコン
98% of people used clothing bleach named
ワイドハイターEX
That contains something that is suitable for projects like this.
I bought a new box with cover and 1760ml of that magic liquid that should work according to those that have succeeded.
Now I can leave it outside 24/7 no matter the weather condition. I didn't use water this time, 100% ワイドハイターEX . Also didn't remove that red front plate. I want to see how aggressive that stuff is.
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Got my Pi Zero W and Zero4U.
I assume the Zero4U needs a separate power supply is that correct?
Has anyone tried to use one on a Pi Zero W yet?Update: never mind the power supply question.
The USB hub will take power directly from your Pi Zero, so you don’t need to power the USB hub separately.
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