Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP)
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@FlyingTomahawk I used the direct plug one on the Super Famicom as I had room for it. I used the Spring Header one on the Genesis Pi due to component placement. Both work the same way in terms of what they're doing with the Pi, it's just how they interface with the Pi for power.
Here's the spring header one in my Genesis Pi.
Here's the direct plug version in my Super Famicom Pi.
You have TONS of room in that case.
Keep the cartridge slot. even if you don't make it functional like I did (well, it was working before my software update last night, and now I need to figure out this weird Python error I'm getting) I think it'd be really cool to have a game plugged in. Even if it's just sitting there.
Try turning the Pi 3 sideways in front of the cartridge slot. Looks like it'd fit there easily. You'd have to make the eject mechanism stationary, but I don't think that's a huge sacrifice, but I also don't know your ultimate goal with the project. If that's a show stopper, we may need to see how much room is under that white piece.
You may end up having to remove some of the internal support posts, but I'm thinking that if you remove the cartridge slider (that big white piece) you should be fine.
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Also, since you don't want to cut the case, what's the diameter like on those holes for the original controller wire pass throughs? Is it the same diameter as the width of a HDMI plug? Maybe you could put your HDMI port there, since you're going Bluetooth, and put a USB port in the other one.
I love figuring this stuff out.
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Hmm....that might be not a bad idea, removing the cartridge slider. I could glue the push switch and just remove the spring and that huge white plastic. No cutting would be necessary.
I though I'll go with panel mount plugs like these here:HDMI panel mount
MicroUSB panel mountAnd I am still thinking about using the Pi Zero. If I would use the Pi3 I would need access to the USB ports so that I can swap between FC30 and arcade sticks. With the Pi Zero I wouldn't have those issues since I don't have FBA and stuff installed there.
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@FlyingTomahawk I never liked the panel mount stuff because of the visible screws, but they are convenient to work with.
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@FlyingTomahawk How big is the hole for the controller pass through? I'm not sure how big that rubber grommet is.
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Those are hard plastic grommets and they have the same size hole like the AC adapter hole. Square shaped.
There I want to pull out the power cables for the FC30 controllers if I can find a way to split/hub the power microUSB but that is another issue later in the build.
In the latest 3 pictures above you can see the square holes most left and right. -
@FlyingTomahawk If that's the case, I would likely then file one of the two switch areas in the middle wider, since they're already rectangular, and you'd just make one about twice as wide. Maybe put the Micro USB in the AC Adapter hole since it's labeled as such, and then the
TV <> Game
hole for HDMI, since it's kind of the "TV Game" interface.If it were my build I'd work on routing things internally and mocking it all up before I mod the case.
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If It was my build, or, when It's my build :D I would cut most of the internal plastic out for ease of access, it's never going to be a Fami again, and shhh, no one can see the inside, with the Mega Drive, I even cut back the depth of the cartridge slot to just the flaps and screw holes to re mount it, needed to with the Pi3 in a case inside.
So nice seeing the rectangle cut outs on the middle of the case, easier then making a square from a circle, can picture the my setup already, from left to right, HDMI, Power, single USB for a hub, Ethernet.
I did go with the panel mount fixings, but didn't use the screws, as they gave a little more to apply hot glue to inside, next time, I plan, if I need to, to trim the plastic back a bit, to sit it more flush in the hole.
If need be, a trip to the electrical store with grommit in hand, get some flexible ones if need be to push wires through.
I hate EBay timers.
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@FlyingTomahawk if you want to reuse the controller holes and want the back to stay original looking you could just use these. (These are for a pi zero. You would need a different one for pi 3) just click on the links.
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@FlyingTomahawk
Could you get some games fairly cheap ?
That shipping price is actually not bad,
what other consoles do you see a lot of over there?I dont have a famicon in my collection so im definately thinking about that, but I would want some games i guess......
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They sell games here and pretty much any game console that was released here.
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I just placed orders for
Bluetooth dongle
HDMI panel mount cable
Micro USB panel mount cable
Mausberry direct input typeIt's gonna take 2-3 weeks for the stuff to arrive.
During that time I will start to setup the Pi Zero with the new Famicom mini theme by ruckage. -
@FlyingTomahawk Be careful or we're all going ot start asking you to buy us stuff. ;)
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Thanks for the warning. ;)
I'm not gonna run around from store to store to search for certain game stuff. Those times are long gone. -
@FlyingTomahawk Just sayin, because I was like, "Hmm, I wonder if he could look for <insert random game stuff> for meβ¦"
Are all Famicoms that off beige color, or has yours yellowed over time? Any plans to try to whiten it?
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I think mine is very close to its original color.
There are lot worse out there. Like really yellowish yellow.You can always tell me what you are looking for and if I should find it during my strolls then sure why not. But I can't make extra time to go search around that is just not possible.
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@FlyingTomahawk That makes sense, considering how computers were all that off-white color before turning black in the late 90s.
Thanks, I appreciate it, but also wouldn't want to be a burden.
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Just placed an order for a Pi Zero W and Zero4U.
I am currently setting up the Pi Zero 1.3 with the famicom mini theme and all but it is a pain in the *** to always swap between WiFi dongle and controller or keyboard. -
I forgot to ask something. When I took apart the Famicom the other day I saw this.
Looks like someone soldered a resistor on it and bridged 2 points. From the looks of it other points have been touched too. Failed AV mod?
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