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    My first post. Rpi3 in an SNES

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Projects and Themes
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    • L
      Loren
      last edited by Loren

      Hello just wanted to share:

      Video demo:

      A picture of the guts:
      http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j204/Nerol25/IMG_2927_zpshk0qcrhq.jpg

      Ethernet port is available from exterior as well as 2 of the USB ports. I opted to go with a barrel jack over mini USB for power as it seemed like a stronger connection.

      herb_fargusH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
      • herb_fargusH
        herb_fargus administrators @Loren
        last edited by

        @Loren If you like turtle pi you should make this your splash (courtesy of @Rookervik )

        https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60872572/temp/TurtlePiSplash.mp4

        If you read the documentation it will answer 99% of your questions: https://retropie.org.uk/docs/

        Also if you want a solution to your problems read this first: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • B
          backstander
          last edited by

          @Loren Love the build! I've been wanting to pickup a dead SNES, N64 or the like to bring it back to life with a Raspberry Pi inside! I like that the power button shuts it down gracefully!

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Morph-XM
            Morph-X
            last edited by

            Very nice build! Indeed, the shut down process is neat!

            How did you create/connect the blue indicator LED?

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • C
              Cheeturbo
              last edited by Cheeturbo

              @Loren Awesome! I'm working on the same project, I even have the blue power light.

              How did you mount the rpi3 to the body of the SNES? Did you do any modification to the top half? I'm struggling to get everything to fit because the plastic piece that holds the cart in place and the eject mechanism.

              @Morph-X The Controlblock/Powerblock that Petrockblog sells has two pins to connect an LED. Something like this simply plugs into it and then controlblock/powerblock takes care of the rest.

              edmaul69E 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • edmaul69E
                edmaul69 @Cheeturbo
                last edited by

                @Cheeturbo what i did for the eject button was use a really good amount of hot glue to hold it in place. Then i used a dremel to cut down the eject button from the inside. The heat from the cutting mixed and fused the plastic and hot glue so the top case and eject button will never come apart ever.

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • L
                  Loren
                  last edited by Loren

                  Sorry for the late reply.

                  To answer some questions:

                  1. Yes I had to cut down the cart slot to fit everything inside. I did it with a dremel and then sanded off any of the loose bits.

                  2. I used bolts and spacers to mount the pi and control block.

                  3. The blue indicator light was one I had lying around from some guitar pedal mods I have done in the past. I measured the diameter of the light with calipers and then used that measurement to select a drill bit to mount it. It's actually tight enough to be a friction fit. I did not glue the blue LED in place. The light is connected to the LED pins on the control block. The red OEM light could be used instead but I decided I liked this look better. Beside the red LED comes on when the full boot happens.

                  4. The cart slot cover is glued shut with gorilla glue. I used hot glue to secure it while the gorilla glue cured.

                  5. I did the same for the eject button. I cut off something like 60% of the eject button and gorilla glued it in place again using hot glue to secure it while it cured.

                  6. I considered making the reset switch work, however I opted not to due to space and wiring so again that's held in place with hot glue.

                  7. In order to mount the HDMI and barrel jack I had to dremel some of the back of the port plate off. So I did that with a cutting wheel then sanded it flat. The multi out has an uneven back to it (my guess is support) and that had to be removed. I also had to drill out the hole for the barrel jack as it was bigger than the default hole in the case. Once that was done though there was no good way to secure the back panel to the case so I at first tried gorilla glue, however there was not enough surface to hold it hence the globs of hot glue you see in the picture I posted. It seems really solid now.

                  Sort of wish I had done a better job documenting how I did this.

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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