Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP)
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3rd day.
Did it get any better? You guys tell me.
Here one the first picture.
I know the light is different so hard to really tell.
I would have to take it out or take it to the exact same place and re take the picture.
But I think the pub-yellow has faded a bit, right? -
@FlyingTomahawk It looks whiter to me. How are the stickers and red plastic holding up?
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They look good thus far.
Red plastics seem to be unaffected by it.
The red Famicom logo on the front also looks undamaged or same as it was at the very beginning.
Let's see how that looks after 1 week.
Worst case, stickers I can print and reapply. -
Definitely working. I'm going to do the same with my brown nes case ; )
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@FlyingTomahawk looking good to me.
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If you give this a go try to get this.
wide haiter ex power
I think Amazon sells it.
It's not just bleach but also smell remover. It doesn't smell like bleach but more like soap. -
Not sure it is good visible but when moving the eject switch you can see a thin line of its old color.
I think it would have been better to remove the 2 stickers and the one that points to the plug on the front before bleaching.
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@FlyingTomahawk it looks really good. The white under the clear decals matches the console now.
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Its even becoming more white than under those decals that is why I think I should have removed them. But I'm gonna get 4 more Famicoms so plenty of chance to improve.
I am positively surprised that it worked that good in such short time even with such cloudy weather.
I'm gonna keep it a bit longer in there till I get the other Famicoms then I'll just swap and continue the withening process with the same liquid. Let's see how many Famicoms can be bleached. -
@FlyingTomahawk feel free to remove the clear decals if you need. I will try to find replacements. If they arent there i am not really bothered by it. If it was a new system i would have removed all the clear instructional decals. I remove them off of all my stereo components, tv's and computers too.
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Have you tried using the 8bitdo controllers with the Zero W yet?
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No not yet.
I only setup the Zero W with the roms and Famicom-mini theme and that's it.
I haven't switched on those FC30 controllers yet.However I found a solution to my controller charging problem.
I found a 3-1 microUSB hub that could be very useful. It was cheap so I ordered one.So the male plug from the panel mount microUSB goes into the female of the HUB then the male from the hub into the Mausberry or Pi directly and the charging cables (USB->microUSB) connect to the 2 remaining USB female plugs.
Make sense? It would be awesome if it works since it would be a solderless solution. -
@FlyingTomahawk Solderless? Where's your sense of adventure? ;)
I'd be curious how the hub handles a big power load put through it, but there's one way to find out…
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@FlyingTomahawk if i end up with those bluetooth controllers i thought about just have the the charging cables come out of the original controller cable holes. That way i dont have anything big and bulky hanging out of the back. And it will kind of resemble the original controllers when they are plugged in.
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@edmaul69 that's what @FlyingTomahawk wants to do too, that hug would be inside the case.
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@obsidianspider ok. I thought he had a hub to go in there already. As he mentioned a panel mount usb
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@edmaul69 I think this is just to act as a power distribution block
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@obsidianspider he mentioned panel mount so i assumed it was going on the outside.
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@obsidianspider also i would have just two micro usb plugs on the outside instead of the full size female usb plugs.
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Yes, that was my thought too.
I need to hide the Pi Zero and the Hub inside the Famicom and what comes out are just the 2 cables that would connect to the controllers to recharge them if needed. The downside is that the cables would just hang out there if not needed.
klachow thought it would be cool if the controllers could be turned upside down and be plugged in directly kinda like you would do with a PS4 controller if you have the charging station.
The only thing I don't like about the idea is that the controllers would be upside down which makes it look a bit weird.No soldering adventures here. If possible I would like to avoid soldering. Also hot glue is not so my thing. I rather have gold screws visible than using hot glue.
But that can change once I get all the parts and start to check for clearance inside the case.
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