Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP)
-
@FlyingTomahawk looking good to me.
-
If you give this a go try to get this.
wide haiter ex power
I think Amazon sells it.
It's not just bleach but also smell remover. It doesn't smell like bleach but more like soap. -
Not sure it is good visible but when moving the eject switch you can see a thin line of its old color.
I think it would have been better to remove the 2 stickers and the one that points to the plug on the front before bleaching.
-
@FlyingTomahawk it looks really good. The white under the clear decals matches the console now.
-
Its even becoming more white than under those decals that is why I think I should have removed them. But I'm gonna get 4 more Famicoms so plenty of chance to improve.
I am positively surprised that it worked that good in such short time even with such cloudy weather.
I'm gonna keep it a bit longer in there till I get the other Famicoms then I'll just swap and continue the withening process with the same liquid. Let's see how many Famicoms can be bleached. -
@FlyingTomahawk feel free to remove the clear decals if you need. I will try to find replacements. If they arent there i am not really bothered by it. If it was a new system i would have removed all the clear instructional decals. I remove them off of all my stereo components, tv's and computers too.
-
Have you tried using the 8bitdo controllers with the Zero W yet?
-
No not yet.
I only setup the Zero W with the roms and Famicom-mini theme and that's it.
I haven't switched on those FC30 controllers yet.However I found a solution to my controller charging problem.
I found a 3-1 microUSB hub that could be very useful. It was cheap so I ordered one.So the male plug from the panel mount microUSB goes into the female of the HUB then the male from the hub into the Mausberry or Pi directly and the charging cables (USB->microUSB) connect to the 2 remaining USB female plugs.
Make sense? It would be awesome if it works since it would be a solderless solution. -
@FlyingTomahawk Solderless? Where's your sense of adventure? ;)
I'd be curious how the hub handles a big power load put through it, but there's one way to find out…
-
@FlyingTomahawk if i end up with those bluetooth controllers i thought about just have the the charging cables come out of the original controller cable holes. That way i dont have anything big and bulky hanging out of the back. And it will kind of resemble the original controllers when they are plugged in.
-
@edmaul69 that's what @FlyingTomahawk wants to do too, that hug would be inside the case.
-
@obsidianspider ok. I thought he had a hub to go in there already. As he mentioned a panel mount usb
-
@edmaul69 I think this is just to act as a power distribution block
-
@obsidianspider he mentioned panel mount so i assumed it was going on the outside.
-
@obsidianspider also i would have just two micro usb plugs on the outside instead of the full size female usb plugs.
-
Yes, that was my thought too.
I need to hide the Pi Zero and the Hub inside the Famicom and what comes out are just the 2 cables that would connect to the controllers to recharge them if needed. The downside is that the cables would just hang out there if not needed.
klachow thought it would be cool if the controllers could be turned upside down and be plugged in directly kinda like you would do with a PS4 controller if you have the charging station.
The only thing I don't like about the idea is that the controllers would be upside down which makes it look a bit weird.No soldering adventures here. If possible I would like to avoid soldering. Also hot glue is not so my thing. I rather have gold screws visible than using hot glue.
But that can change once I get all the parts and start to check for clearance inside the case. -
@obsidianspider said in Famicom (not Mini) build (WIP):
@edmaul69 I think this is just to act as a power distribution block
Exactly that. The goal is to be able to charge the controllers even if the Pi is shut down.
If all works out I can supply the Pi with power and at the same time send power through the USB cables to charge the controllers.
I am not sure if 1A is enough to get all running but worst case I could use the RPi 3 power supply 2.5A or only charge the controllers when the Pi Zero is shutdown. -
@FlyingTomahawk I don't think your wall plug will be the limiting factor, the hub itself may limit output to each device. In that case you'd have to hot rod it by connecting power wires and bypassing the circuitry.
-
If that should happen then it might end becoming a soldering adventure after all. ;-)
-
@FlyingTomahawk You're already a chemist. Why not add another talent to your repertoire? 🙂
Contributions to the project are always appreciated, so if you would like to support us with a donation you can do so here.
Hosting provided by Mythic-Beasts. See the Hosting Information page for more information.