Spontaneous left/right movements in everything
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@nazo so i didnt read all of this book but from things i did read. Cellphone chargers do not maintain a constant voltage. The way rapid charge works is it increases and decreases voltage to prevent exploding batteries. The raspberry pi 3's system requirements is listed as 5.1v 2.5a so a cellphone charger will never maintain that. I have only used the white connector versions. I have not had issues as long as i am not trying to power a hard drive from the same power supply. As far as the loose usb connector, the cable can make all the difference. Some are looser than others. Try other cables. A lot of the power supplies made specifically for the pi have a tighter fit.
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@edmaul69 said in Spontaneous left/right movements in everything:
@nazo so i didnt read all of this book but from things i did read.
You should have. This has been covered.
@edmaul69 said in Spontaneous left/right movements in everything:
Cellphone chargers do not maintain a constant voltage. The way rapid charge works is it increases and decreases voltage to prevent exploding batteries.
You took the term "charger" too literally. It's a USB power supply. It outputs a constant 5V. For the record, lithium ion chargers output a constant voltage and vary the current.
@edmaul69 said in Spontaneous left/right movements in everything:
The raspberry pi 3's system requirements is listed as 5.1v 2.5a
5.0V +/- at least 4% tolerance (much more than 0.4,) probably 5% or more up to 2.5A - https://www.raspberrypi.org/help/faqs/#power
Going by official statements from the people who made the thing, it likely uses close to 1A with the way I'm using it. Perhaps peaking around 1.5A or so. This is rounding up. The 4.98V minimum and 5.02 maximum voltages it produced are far within the official specifications by 10 times or more.EDIT: Ok, I'm going to make the power supply people really happy by finally answering the big question. Or actually unhappy because you are not going to like the results... I have been meaning to rig up a USB current test connection for some time but just never really got around to it. So I guess this was a good occasion to finally stop putting it off, more to indulge my own curiosity about that gamepad than anything else. Anyway, sitting idle in the system menu (where the ghost inputs are most noticeable) it's using about 0.425 amps. Yes, less than 500mA. When I let it sit for a good while (around the sort of time range when ghosting shows up) it drops to around 0.325A (I guess there must be some power saving implemented in the hardware after all, even if only minimally so.) I told you my use case was less than they were discussing. Now, that's not a real test of course. So I fired up the PS1 emulator and ran a couple of games. The absolute highest peak value I could get it up to for a split second was 0.515, but it wouldn't hold that for more than half a second or so. About 99% of the time in PS1 gaming it was holding about 0.482 or so (it wavered a lot going down to 0.47 something and up to 0.49 something, but hovering most around that area.) I don't guess I have anything that makes extensive use of the GPU handy. I thought maybe Kodi could push things a bit more since it uses the CPU and the VPU for video playback (at least it has some minimal acceleration capabilities) but curiously enough it actually went down to about 0.385 -- lower than the main menu was before it idled for a while. I think I don't have a single power supply in my entire house that can't handle my use case scenario.
Now, I couldn't help but to indulge my curiosity about this gamepad. How much does it use? Is it somehow using a lot and pushing USB controllers hard? My PC can output a higher current than the RPi can (it specifically chooses to violate USB standards in that respect so it can charge even high powered phones.) Nope. 0.002A idle usage. Peak usage if I'm mashing buttons as hard and fast as I can can get up to 0.004A for a split second, but most wild button mashing results in 0.003A usage. So, if the problem is in any way power related it's not using enough power since input devices often tend to be closer to 10mA rather than 2mA.
I will not in any way whatsoever address further discussion of the power supply. (I shouldn't have responded to this.)
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@nazo thats fine. But you should test it to rule it out. I have never been able to get a pi 3 to function properly on that low of an amperage but im not going to debate it anymore either. If people arent willing to try suggestions, no point in discussing it.
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Good. Now, getting back on track, I return to my previous question. Assuming it is the gamepad, does anyone know of a suitable replacement that has a good d-pad and is comfortable?
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@nazo a real super nintendo controller with an adapter. Nothing designed like a sega controller. I use a lot of real controllers when i play on the pi and sega made some bad dpads compared to nintendo. But i like the authenticity when using real controllers. I dont mind the dpads on playstation brand controllers. I like using the wii classic controllers as well.
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Bearing in mind that cost is an issue though. I need to stick to something simpler and more direct right now. Also, it has to be USB, so none of those GPIO-based adapters. (I know you weren't saying GPIO specifically, I just want to be clear on that point.)
BTW, if you look at my last edit you'll be happy -- or probably unhappy when you see the numbers -- to see that I tested current anyway even though I shouldn't have.
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i use a ps4 dual shock, havent had an problems with it, I use the USB dongle with it, it has worked flawlessly in ever game I have played.
I dont think its possible to get a better pad. im a real cheapskate, but after trying a few other options I just went with it and havent regretted it,
if you have a ps4 anyway (i dont) then its a no brainer. -
I don't. Anyway, like I said I'm looking for something more like the SNES controller. I actually have a good PS2 controller (not stock -- I needed something smaller and I don't like the d-pad on the stock one) with a USB adapter but it ruins some of the atmosphere playing anything that isn't PS1 (and, in fact, I actually kind of enjoyed using that SFC-style gamepad for PS1 games. I don't want to play anything 3D on here right now anyway -- maybe later) and I just really really like the SNES/SFC controller's all around feel.
I'm considering using the real thing via adapter, but I really wanted to keep this simple and cheap.
EDIT: Well, I found a SFC controller on eBay with a crack in it for really cheap. I guess I'll take a risk on this. It, together with a SNES/SFC pad-to-USB adapter doesn't cost too much at least. I shouldn't even be buying this, but even if the problem is something in software or otherwise fixable without losing anything it's obvious that nothing is going to be achieved here. I'll just have an extra iBuffalo for use on my PC where it has exactly zero ghosting I guess.
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@nazo if you are in the u.s. i have a snes controller case lying around if you want it. I have a beat up untested snes controller too. I cant test it since all my controllers are modified and i dont have anything with a snes port.
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I'll have to wait a few days or so and see how this all works out. The USB adapter is Amazon, so fast, but the SFC controller is eBay, so you know. The seller claims the crack does not in any way affect the controller's actual usage. From the pictures it may be fine as long as it's sufficiently glued (and presumably it already is.) I prefer not to give out my address unless I get downright desperate anyway and the controller was the cheaper part of the two. I do still really thank you for the offer though.
You know, even though I'm going to do that and hopefully solve the problem in a bit of a roundabout non-solving manner, I am still sort of curious about the iBuffalo. Given that a powered USB hub might help one person and that sort of thing, I sort of wonder if it could be more of an issue of something like it actually doesn't use enough power. Maybe the powered hub compensates by being more consistent in handling its lower power usage. It makes me sort of wonder: what would happen if you increased its usage just a bit, maybe getting it closer to 10mA? Perhaps some sort of resistor placed somewhere or something like this? Given that I bought one of these specifically to dedicate to the RPi and they are already modified (I trimmed down the turbo and clear buttons to be less than flush with the casing so they absolutely can't be pressed by accident under any circumstances -- though if I push down with a finger I can still do it if I really want which I likely never will) I sort of wouldn't mind if I had to do something like that, but honestly I have no clue what to really do in that respect.
EDIT: I tested the Saturn-style USB gamepad I had found (hate that 8-way, but it works) and it came up as 2mA idle as well. So I guess it's not power usage since it's the same. I have no clue why the heck the RPi produces this problem and a PC does not.
I got the adapter and SFC gamepad, so I'll be giving them a try on the RPi later. They work great on a PC in an initial test other than the gamepad being pretty old and worn (the d-pad in particular doesn't have the snap to it that it should. I wish I could switch these from the iBuffalo but of course they're quite different on the inside.)
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