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    mituM

    @guybrush said in New TV: Black frame | Undervoltage | Upgrade to Nespi + and 3B+ | Micro SD card:

    Will I have problems with smooth gaming when storing the games on the NAS and would the Pi 3+ make a difference in that department?

    I'd say the difference you'll see is negligible, since once the game/rom is loaded in the emulator, there's little network activity or file transfers over the network. One exception would be - maybe - CD based games where the game is loaded from the CD images (.iso/.bin/.chd). The network speed would help the loading times. But if you are already content with the Pi 3 and the current setup (ROMs on the NAS), it wouldn't make a noticeable upgrade.

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    mituM

    @koogelpotato said in RetroPie low voltage and no usable temporary directory found:

    power supply apples 5.2volts and 2.4 amps

    By the look of the warning messages you get and the 2.4 amps, I'd say your power supply is not very good. If you have 3B+ and/or you power up the LCD screen from your PI, then you'll definitely need a better source.

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    ClassicGMRC

    @quicksilver said in That God %$#@ Lightning Bolt:

    @classicgmr https://www.amazon.com/Mackertop-HSTNN-LA43-PA-1150-22HA-779573-001-761247-002/dp/B01HB44IE6

    This is the power supply that I'm using with my pi3, I am also using the super kintaro case. I have had no issues with this power supply and I'm overclocked.

    Just an update to reclaim my thread. ;)

    This has been working just fine for me. Haven't seen a lightning bolt since I started using it. Only hardwired 3A cables for me from now on. Thank you all for your suggestions. :)

  • CanaKit 3b+ w/ Retropie issues.

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    S

    Tyvm. Downloading now.

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    @atexplosion

    I'm an electrical engineer, and I recently spent a day debugging all the boards and wires in my Nespi case because of the undervoltage alarm. I also tried multiple cables, power supplies, and other brands of cases, with and without fans. My conclusion ended up being that all of my USB cables were inferior, and I will explain why.

    For starters, Ohm's Law states that DC electric potential is equal to the product of current and resistance in a circuit (V = I*R).

    All conductors (wires) have an associated resistance (R, measured in ohms [Ω]). At low current (I, measured in amperes [A]), the effect of wire resistance is negligible. At higher current values, that effect becomes significant, causing a "voltage drop" (V, measured in volts [V]). A Raspberry Pi running Retropie has a pretty high current load compared to generic USB devices (like an optical mouse, or a game controller).

    For a given cross-sectional area, a copper wire has an intrinsic resistivity (that is, resistance per unit length, or Ω/m [ohms per meter]). Depending on the given USB cable, the power conductors typically range from 28 AWG to 24 AWG (0.08 to 0.25 square millimeters cross-sectional area), with the largest available (that I know of) being 19-AWG (0.653 square millimeters).

    The resistances of these three wire gauges at 10 ft are the following:
    28 AWG @ 10 ft -- 0.649 Ω
    24 AWG @ 10 ft -- 0.257 Ω
    19 AWG @ 10 ft -- 0.081 Ω

    Assuming an average current of 0.800 A (800 mA) for a medium-usage Raspberry Pi 3B+, using Ohm's Law, that would yield the following voltage drops:

    28 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 0.52 V
    24 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 0.21 V
    19 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 0.07 V

    For a 5-volt power supply, that would mean the voltage at your Raspberry Pi's micro USB connector would be the following:

    28 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 4.48 V
    24 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 4.79 V
    19 AWG @ 0.8 A, 10 ft -- 4.93 V

    The shorter your cable, the effects become lessened:

    28 AWG @ 0.8 A, 5 ft -- 4.74 V
    24 AWG @ 0.8 A, 5 ft -- 4.90 V
    19 AWG @ 0.8 A, 5 ft -- 4.97 V

    28 AWG @ 0.8 A, 2.5 ft -- 4.87 V
    24 AWG @ 0.8 A, 2.5 ft -- 4.95 V
    19 AWG @ 0.8 A, 2.5 ft -- 4.98 V

    Increasing the size of your power supply (higher current output) really won't get around these effects. Maybe going to a higher voltage would compensate for the drop, but your current changes constantly, causing the voltage drop to change constantly. You'd be risking damaging your Pi. The best solution is using the shortest standard cable available, or buying a cable with larger conductors if you need a longer length (the company Volutz offers the largest that I could find).

    The PCB boards in the Nespi case do slightly exacerbate the issue, but the biggest culprit is the main power cable. Once it's of sufficient length and/or gauge, the effects of the Nespi boards are negligible. I even had undervoltage faults using no case at all when I had a long power cable with thin wires.

    So, use a really short cable if you can, and you should have no issues, even using a Samsung phone charger.

    Cheers,
    Than MacKenzie

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    Not the exact diagram I used originally, but this one will still show you the pins to disable or remove

    https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/File:Usb-pinout.png

    You need to disable/remove the +5v/VCC power. This will then turn that USB cable into a data only cable. As your hub is a powered USB hub this won't matter. Thats why when the PI is off its still powered as the hub is now feeding +5v back into the PI. Not a great idea as its not really designed to be powered from a USB connector plus the problems this could cause with too much current draw through the USB connector that the PI needs

    Either by removing the pin that supplies +5v in the USB plug to the PI or carefully peel back the cable insulation and snip the red wire for the +5v

  • Undervolt problem?

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    Y

    im using a media pi plus. it has a converter inside