Nope. This didn't work. The internal resistance of the capacitor is too high to deliver enough current to prevent a power interruption. You get a very low current output for a long time, not a high current output for a short time. I found only very large supercaps such as car audio "stiffening" caps have low enough resistances, and those are about the size of a soda can so it's a no go.

@jediknight36 Replace the power supply. I've had a $5 chinese power supply for my pi2 give me the lightning bolt like 1-2years later. Opening it up, they used very thin wires that just gave out from the thinness and poor solder job. Replaced them with thicker ones and all's good. Zero issues with my official pi power supplies.

@petrockblog Still interested. Sent you an e-mail. Thanks.

@SeraphisCain What could have caused it to appear momentarily like that, just as I was shutting down? I wonder if your heater or AC was kicking on at that exact time or maybe a power brownout or if you're using an old surge protector, maybe it time to replace it. Those things don't last forever and can wear out over time from multiple power surges. Also if you're going to replace your surge, you might as well spend a little more and get a Battery Backup which will help with surges and brownouts. I've got this one that I plug my modem/router into and my main Raspberry Pi. And is it something I should be worried about? If it only ever happens once, I wouldn't worry about. If it keeps happening, then it could be an issue. Maybe a short in the power cable? Bad surge protector? Dirty power?

@thestarglider said in SNES controller ghosting on Retropie/Kodi etc... An interesting find...: It would be interesting to know if anyone else had tried an alternative power source to their Pi when they've had issues with ghosting, because in all the threads I have read, I don't remember anyone else bringing it up. i kinda did :) https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/8187/gamepads-making-involuntary-movements-in-emulation-station the issue is power interference so it figures that changes to power supply or connection can influence it. however it won't fix it for everyone.

I got everything working flawlessly with a different power supply: 5.2V, 3A. :)

@melbmatt50 said in Retropie power switch: As I mentioned before many of the emulators I am not sure if you can program a hot key to escape back to the main retropie menu like you can in mame4all more or less any default emulator in retropie should do this by default. there should be no reason to unplug the pi to turn it off whilst retropie is running.

@urko948 Use the official Raspberry Pi power adapter or whatever the Raspberry guys recommend.

@quicksilver said in That God %$#@ Lightning Bolt: @classicgmr https://www.amazon.com/Mackertop-HSTNN-LA43-PA-1150-22HA-779573-001-761247-002/dp/B01HB44IE6 This is the power supply that I'm using with my pi3, I am also using the super kintaro case. I have had no issues with this power supply and I'm overclocked. Just an update to reclaim my thread. ;) This has been working just fine for me. Haven't seen a lightning bolt since I started using it. Only hardwired 3A cables for me from now on. Thank you all for your suggestions. :)

@Lurker thank you for this detail, also super helpful for me. I am considering doing the same thing but using this switch (Pilot Automotive PL-SW26 Performance Toggle Switch with Red Safety Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTMUUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6uZQDbMXHJDGD). I don’t have any electrical experience - can I ask you what the difference would be here given this only has 2 connectors vs the 3 in the other switch?

@creativename i only use the canakits except in my pistation build which need to run a hub and a hdd off of the same power supply and the canakit isnt enough. I use two canakits on my apple iie pi.

@dankcushions I've personally never had any issues with canakit chargers but I also don't overclock

Not the exact diagram I used originally, but this one will still show you the pins to disable or remove https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/File:Usb-pinout.png You need to disable/remove the +5v/VCC power. This will then turn that USB cable into a data only cable. As your hub is a powered USB hub this won't matter. Thats why when the PI is off its still powered as the hub is now feeding +5v back into the PI. Not a great idea as its not really designed to be powered from a USB connector plus the problems this could cause with too much current draw through the USB connector that the PI needs Either by removing the pin that supplies +5v in the USB plug to the PI or carefully peel back the cable insulation and snip the red wire for the +5v

@edmaul69 yeah thats rly weird idk what to do any more but i do rly want to play it but im not since i cant have fun with that lag :( anyway i send you email u ask me to in other thread heh

@lostless It's a direct plug. so there are no wires. @rbaker Holy crap. :)

It's hard to say if you have the proper power supply. Maybe check your power cable. I use an extra long one and keep that in mind when I am troubleshooting. Maybe your Pi or new power supply is malfunctioning. Do you have a second Pi to test your current card? Since it's global it sounds like you might need to do some additional troubleshooting. I would almost reinstall with a fresh image on the SD card (or a different one) to rule out the SD card, image & configuration. Maybe a different USB drive if that's what you're using. It seems there's a lot that could happening to make a determination or if it was a larger/build related issue more would be posting.

Perfect. Thanks!

cable extensions wont draw any additional power