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RetroPie 2 player arcade style compact console box (410mm wide)

  • Hi, here my project this summer, maybe inspires somebody..

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    Some recomendations:

    • everything will need more space than you foresee.
    • Sides made of 16mm chipboard to serve as structural frame.
    • I used 10mm DMF panel for pushbuttons, it is OK, but if you are screwing to it better use 16mm panel (I had some marks of the screws seen by the outside face). If you glue or can staple it to base frame then 10mm is OK. Drill the button holes was easier than it seemed.
    • Used 5mm plywood for lower cover, to reduce weight.
    • Painted with black spray, 2 layers, quick and good enough result.
    • I´m not sure if it is worth the complication of doing the pushbutton panel tilted. If your are not a little "handyman" better just do it box-like.
    • The USB and HDMI extenders are screwed to the 16mm sides, I had to remove the inner nuts in the connectors, and use some similar diamenter wood screws.

  • you gotta work on your electrical skills....that stuff is dangerous and should not inspire anybody

    and the rest is......less then average....

  • @dorkvonwaterfall

    Don't see anything "dangerous", and your an ass...

  • @newellj79 said in RetroPie 2 player arcade style compact console box (410mm wide):


    Don't see anything "dangerous", and your an ass...

    At least i`m not an blind ass......

  • @rulmismo thanks for sharing your work!

    What I think @DorkVonWaterfall is referring to is the exposed high-voltage lines (blue&black) next to the unprotected low-voltage connectors of the joystick /buttons on the left side.

    I agree that this is a potentially dangerous situation, and I would strongly advice to reconsider this layout. Maybe just place wall-wart outside of the box, and bring in low voltage? That would create some much needed space, and makes it safer overall.

    @DorkVonWaterfall & @Newellj79 see what I did there? Approach people with some respect, and provide some actionable alternatives. Much nicer tone, and a higher chance of actually being listened to. You guys should try it.

  • @dorkvonwaterfall Why do you think it is dangerous?

  • @zigurana I see your point. I know the terminal block is not a great solution, because could get loose and cause problems.
    I actually thought of using and adapter to solder the power wires to the LV supply to get a more definitive thing, but just run out of space.

    I do not think that it is really dangerous, as all the components and case are good insulators, so even with a cable loose the worst that can happens is a shorcircuit and then OK, something will trip...

    I liked using the IEC, computer-like connector for robustness, but maybe I would use now for supply connector an additional micro-USB to USB cable extender, and let the PI supply outside the box (I don´t like the micro-USB for the box, seems too "light").

    Thanks for the comments anyway.

  • @rulmismo Yeah, the screw terminals hanging out from the wall plug have gaps around them, open/electrified screws exposed so someone with a tool in hand might be able to electrocute themselves.

    One step better would be to use an extension cord, keeping the female end. Plug your DC adapter into it instead of the screw terminals, then use the length of cord to replace your black and blue wires, cutting the extension cord when it reaches your plug on the right side and re-solder. At least this would put the dangerous part only on the right side which you could protect again with heat shrink like you have now, and you could even glue a little a thin box around it so it can't accidentally get pulled and touched.

    That's kinda what I did with my cabinet. I glued some thin wood around the point where the AC comes into my cabinet and made a little box around it. My internal high-voltage power is just the end of an extension cord inside my cabinet.

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