@mitu said in Razer Atrox Arcade Stick Help: @Sircoynie said in Razer Atrox Arcade Stick Help: I have seen a thread about this on here gut it gives no explanation on how it was solved and is very old. I think the solution was to mod the stick with an IPAC usb encoder. So i bought some electronic switches and a custom usb keyboard encoder (ipac2), installed it in my atrox and ended up with a fully working xbox one and raspberry pi machine. Can you try to test the controller with jstest, from the command line and see if the inputs are registered ? Exit EmulationStation and run from the terminal jstest /dev/input/js0 You can exit the test by pressing Ctrl+C. I will give that a try and get back to you thanks.

Is the controller functional - i.e. did you test it on a Windows system ?

A connection that becomes loose? "The issue comes back."

@sirhenrythe5th yeah it sucks but atleast ive got a borrowed ps3 and took advantage of ps3 end of year sale and got my friend usf4 for 3 bucks and borderlands 2 for 4 bucks meanwhile pcb arrives for the arcadestick :D

@mitu said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?: @StuMcBill said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?: however, only 1 controller seems to exit the game, by pressing Start+Select - is this by design? Yes, only the 1st player has access to Hotkeys. Also, there seems to be a small bit of latency with both controllers (which I know is a fact of bluetooth connections), is there anyway I can minimise this? Disable the Wifi connection or get a BT USB adapter - what RPI Model are you using ? Its a Pi3 B+, I'll try and disable WiFi and see what happens.

10/10 nasp2000. i love it. Check my retrobox and see what you think though this surpasses it.

@mitu Ok Thanks! my second stick should arrive any day. Will test it out then

@rulmismo Yeah, the screw terminals hanging out from the wall plug have gaps around them, open/electrified screws exposed so someone with a tool in hand might be able to electrocute themselves. One step better would be to use an extension cord, keeping the female end. Plug your DC adapter into it instead of the screw terminals, then use the length of cord to replace your black and blue wires, cutting the extension cord when it reaches your plug on the right side and re-solder. At least this would put the dangerous part only on the right side which you could protect again with heat shrink like you have now, and you could even glue a little a thin box around it so it can't accidentally get pulled and touched. That's kinda what I did with my cabinet. I glued some thin wood around the point where the AC comes into my cabinet and made a little box around it. My internal high-voltage power is just the end of an extension cord inside my cabinet.

@melvin-fox Appreciate the encouragement. I've had to reconsider the design and features of the enclosure as I was relying on somebody else to build it and now am unsure on when or if this will happen anytime soon. Using an arcade stick with the Pi was the priority so for now, the Pi will stay as is and outside the initial build (version 1). I'll continue to power it as I always have. As this is my first arcade stick build and likely to be a temporary solution, it's very low budget. It's currently housed in an cardboard box! I'll look into upgrading it into something more classy once I can establish how much use it's going to get. I received all the parts last week and spent some time on weekend wiring everything up to ensure it was all working. I'll reconsider the options we discussed here once it's upgraded and decide if an all in one arcade stick/PI solution is the better option. More importantly, if it can be achieved using the few tools I have access to whilst keeping costs to a minimum.

Great idea to use a wooden storage box!

Does it look like one of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-MAME-DIY-Kit-2x-LED-USB-Encoder-2-Joystick-20-Illuminated-Push-Button-/261564066052 If it does, you may have connected the connector from the usb board to the joystick the wrong way around. I have 5 of these and I managed to get it wrong on 2 of the joysticks. In both cases, the result appeared similar to what you've described. Turn the connector (the end attached to the joystick) around and see what happens. That fixed it for me anyway.

@barrymossel The cost for the wood, Pi, SD card and joysticks will be roughly 200$ and he said he would be willing to pay more then how much it would cost just for the time i would be spending on making it for him.

@gamba I imagine he has a y-splitter for the USB cable, the cable comes from the stick board then splits going to rp and the outside USB.

@sadtraxx What they meant was that you don't unzip the roms themselves, maybe there was some miscommunication. The files you're expected to have in the folder must match these: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/1/d/1GaqIIoiWbzKHwZ52S2xCSDQXILo81Ls1mHK6czKGAtM/edit?usp=sharing

I just made one too :) its pretty darn sweet!!!

Very neat!

I have two Arcade Boards that dont work with my Pi 2+3: the MadCatz StreetFighter Tornament-Board (PS3) and the NeoGeo2+ Joyboard, also for PS3. Besides of them i agree: all USB Devices apart of these two seem to work on the fly. Im using MortalKombat-Tournament Sticks by the way and love them

are they the n64 ones? I have the same ones, and whenever I go into an emulator, the buttons are reversed. (B becomes A, etc)