EmulationStation uses libSDL's joystick subsystem to recognize and work with joystick devices, maybe your device is not detected by libSDL as a gamepad/joystick.
In addition to jstest/evtest, install jstest-sdl2 (from https://github.com/Grumbel/sdl-jstest) and see if your device is working with it.

@emulatre71

i have not updated yet firmware, but thanks for the news!

I'm doing several tests but I have no latency problems

@mitu argh! Fantastic - thank you! It was indeed the incorrect x character. 2 Player Virtual Fighter on the arcade cabinet here I come

@codafire for mame 2003 you can enter the mame menu by:

pressing tab on a keyboard. retroarch main menu-> quick menu-> options-> display mame menu-> enable

Then go under input general and change your key presses how you like. The top option will toggle the mame menu and the service buttons 1 through 4 can be set bellow as well.

@night5hade This worked perfectly! thank you!

Thanks this totally fixed it for me. Another similar version here: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/28656/start-button-on-psx-emulator-doesn-t-work/2?_=1608109096986

seems odd this is the default. I never would have found that on my own!

@rotopropjet

Thank you so much for sharing this solution! This was an easy fix and works for me too.

nevermind...after running the tests, and rebooting the Raspberry, the joystick was detected.

@mitu said in Razer Atrox Arcade Stick Help:

@Sircoynie said in Razer Atrox Arcade Stick Help:

I have seen a thread about this on here gut it gives no explanation on how it was solved and is very old.

I think the solution was to mod the stick with an IPAC usb encoder.

So i bought some electronic switches and a custom usb keyboard encoder (ipac2), installed it in my atrox and ended up with a fully working xbox one and raspberry pi machine.

Can you try to test the controller with jstest, from the command line and see if the inputs are registered ? Exit EmulationStation and run from the terminal

jstest /dev/input/js0

You can exit the test by pressing Ctrl+C.

I will give that a try and get back to you thanks.

I'm having the same problem but one wireless redgear x-box gamepad is working fine and I'have configured all but my another gamepad which is detected but I cannot configure any buttons(wired redgear- x-box(in retropie game it is says x-box) but in windows it says ps3)... and I'm getting errors installing ps3 driver..
Any help will be appreciated!

A connection that becomes loose? "The issue comes back."

hey guys,

jumping in here as well. just bought a Madcatz FightStick Tournament edition PS3 which is running fine on my mac. It's recognized as gamepad in ES but does not give the option to be configured, pressing any button does not do anything.

Is it still required to install mentioned additional libs or are they included in the default image?

btw. I am using rp4, 4 GB RetroPi Version 4.7.1.

Thanks!

@mitu said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?:

@StuMcBill said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?:

however, only 1 controller seems to exit the game, by pressing Start+Select - is this by design?

Yes, only the 1st player has access to Hotkeys.

Also, there seems to be a small bit of latency with both controllers (which I know is a fact of bluetooth connections), is there anyway I can minimise this?

Disable the Wifi connection or get a BT USB adapter - what RPI Model are you using ?

Its a Pi3 B+, I'll try and disable WiFi and see what happens.

10/10 nasp2000. i love it. Check my retrobox and see what you think though this surpasses it.

@mitu
Ok Thanks! my second stick should arrive any day. Will test it out then

@rulmismo Yeah, the screw terminals hanging out from the wall plug have gaps around them, open/electrified screws exposed so someone with a tool in hand might be able to electrocute themselves.

One step better would be to use an extension cord, keeping the female end. Plug your DC adapter into it instead of the screw terminals, then use the length of cord to replace your black and blue wires, cutting the extension cord when it reaches your plug on the right side and re-solder. At least this would put the dangerous part only on the right side which you could protect again with heat shrink like you have now, and you could even glue a little a thin box around it so it can't accidentally get pulled and touched.

That's kinda what I did with my cabinet. I glued some thin wood around the point where the AC comes into my cabinet and made a little box around it. My internal high-voltage power is just the end of an extension cord inside my cabinet.

@melvin-fox Appreciate the encouragement.

I've had to reconsider the design and features of the enclosure as I was relying on somebody else to build it and now am unsure on when or if this will happen anytime soon. Using an arcade stick with the Pi was the priority so for now, the Pi will stay as is and outside the initial build (version 1). I'll continue to power it as I always have.

As this is my first arcade stick build and likely to be a temporary solution, it's very low budget. It's currently housed in an cardboard box! I'll look into upgrading it into something more classy once I can establish how much use it's going to get. I received all the parts last week and spent some time on weekend wiring everything up to ensure it was all working.

I'll reconsider the options we discussed here once it's upgraded and decide if an all in one arcade stick/PI solution is the better option. More importantly, if it can be achieved using the few tools I have access to whilst keeping costs to a minimum.

Great idea to use a wooden storage box!