Pi overheating after soldering?
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@rbaker Also, my Pi worked just great with only the Reset Switch, no problems at all. After I soldered the LED, my Pi didnt wanted to start anymore (the LED wokred) and after removing the LED, the Pi didnt start for a while. After that I got these problems.
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@darkside1305 Which Pi? Standard PSU? What is it rated at in A? 2.5A? The RUN port is like a reset. Shorting the 2 pins will start the RPi from a shutdown state. Useful to easily restart the RPi from a shutdown/ halt state instead of having to disconnect and reconnect power. You can install a 2 pin header or wires to a momentary type switch - is this what you have done?
Do not use the RUN reset on a running system though unless the system has already crashed and is not responsive. If you do, it's the same as removing / restoring power and may corrupt the SD if done on a properly running system and cause your issues. There are many other dedicated ways to safely achieve this.
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@rbaker I use the Raspberry Pi 3 Type B, and I just used the PSU that came with It. And yes, 2,5 A Output.
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@rbaker And no to the 2 Pin Header. I just got a Standard PC Power Switch, removed the Isolation, and sodered the Cable on the other end of the 2 Holes. As I said, the Pi worked fine before I soldered the LED.
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@darkside1305 How do you power off and what are you using the switch for?
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@rbaker I usually power off the Pi through Emulation Station, with the "Shutdown System" Option. I sodered the Switch to the Pi since it gave a more "realistic" feel to have a working Reset Button on my N64 Case, and when the Pi freezes to just press the Button and not unplug the Power.
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@darkside1305 ok so shutdown is the correct way. When you said that the pi stopped working for a while, it could be that your soldering technique overheated the devices fuse which takes time to recover. The continual booting cycle suggests some sort of corruption or power issue. What image? remember https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first, this is why we ask for this info to prevent continual questions.
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@rbaker Sorry, what do you mean with Image? The Image (iso) I put on my Pi? If thats what you mean, I think my Pi should currently have RetroPie 4.3 and I used the standard Image you get from the official Site.
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@rbaker Well, new Information. The Boot Loop IS because of some Corruption. I tested with a new SD Card. But, I still have the problem of Overheating.
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@darkside1305 What do you class as overheating? Is it operational? Is it in a case? With regard to corruption, it appears you must be shutting down by pulling the power or your card is not genuine.
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@rbaker Well, after around 10-20 Seconds the Pi shows the first Temperature Warning. After another 10 Seconds it switches to the second.
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@darkside1305 Is it in a case? Fans? Heatsinks? Does the Pi work? Is it during use or idle?
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No, it doesnt have a Fan anymore. It has 2 Heatsinks on top. The Pi works, but is overheating far too quickly as I already said, it overheats during startup. I was not in a Case when I tried
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@darkside1305 Are you overclocking?
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@rbaker I overclocked it with the Old SD Card, yes.
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@DarkSide1305 Then you need to remove the overclock as this is part of the issue - how aggressive is your overclock? configs?- If you would have filled out https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first, you would have said this (configs) - fill it out to enable further support. I think you may have damaged it during your soldering. You should get a volt meter and measure the voltage at the 3.3V pin with respect to ground. I would do this with the SD removed. Is it 3.3V? You should not be getting a hot Pi at boot, it suggests a very poorly Pi.
Resources: Here
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@rbaker I dont have or know anyone with a Volt Meter. Im just gonna give up any buy a new RaspberryPi some day. Thanks for your support either way.
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Check your power supply. If its a generic power supply its highly likely that it won't supply anywhere near the 2.5A the PI3 NEEDS to run correctly
You NEED a good power supply, not a generic cheap one, I'm guessing its a cheap one without knowing the brand. Generic power supplies are usually designed very cheaply and will charge a mobile phone but thats about it. A good power supply for the PI3 and even more the pi3B+ are not cheap, but well worth the extra money as it should avoid all your issues, especially if overclocked
I bought an official PI power supply that wasn't cheap but has never flagged up a power supply warning, and its overclocked to its limits with a BIG heatsink on the CPU and fan on top as I use it for OSMC KODI and RetroPie installed via RetroSMC. Runs N64 and PSX without any problems
Soldering directly to any PCB is not a good idea unless you have very accurate soldering skills and a low power soldering iron with a narrow tip. As suggested did you use a resistor with LED (your message suggests not). The LED may be drawing far too much power and the PI just can't manage it and run itself
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@steptoe I think you didn't read the entire post. It was the Power Supply that came with my Pi. "The LED may be drawing far too much power", that could be the Case, if I hadn't told in this post multiple times that the LED is not even connected to the Pi anymore. And, my Power Supply is enough for my Pi. My Pi worked flawless with Overclocking and with the Reset Switch. I just damaged my Pi with sodering the LED.
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