@lolonois said in Cooling the pi v4:

Note: The Argon Case does not allow you to access the PoE, the MIPI display port and MIPI camera connector.

The Pi Neo does have all those available though https://www.argon40.com/media/catalog/product/cache/01bd92052dc2a38e1c05a8994d8ff250/1/1/11.png
But assuming the Geekworm also connects to the CPU and GPU it does seem like the better option to use inside an arcade.

wow, you guys are really in love with your usb sticks, defending them with life and limbs ...

@dankcushions

so what you are saying is that usbmount reliable mounts on every boot or that it is easier for a newcommer to linux to edit fstab than just transfer roms over network?

@pjft

if you edit fstab it will obviusly mount perfectly on each boot, but imo you cannot rely on everyone to know or understand how to edit fstab.
tbh i doubt that there is really much of a diffrence today in speed, cost or reliability using a brand new usb stick vs sdcard considdering it is most likely using somewhat same chips and it is therefore up to the sdcard reader vs the controller on the usb stick which could arguably be marginally better on a usb stick than the raspberry, considdering it might be newer/better.
however, considdering that it will be using usb 2.0, i doubt there will be a major diffrence if any anyway.
a really high end sd card will most likely outperform a low end usb stick and vice versa,, high end sd card and high end usb sticks will most likely perform somewhat the same at about same price range, so in my oppinion it is just easier to just use a decent sd card and not have the hassle of editing anything (more than neccessary).

however i do agree and see your point, that it might be easier for a windows user to have a drive you can actually read in windows.
but considdering i dont use windows it isnt really a problem for me personally as i can just pop in the sd card in my computer and read it.

@mitu said in Pi overheating and scripts not working:

@MisterMints Most likely something hardware, try to return it and get another.

Wish it was that simple! My Pi3 is over a year old and was a gift - I treated myself to a new 3B+ and was going to donate the broken one (obviously before it was broken!) to a retro gaming present for my little brother.

At least now he gets the same present but with a brand new 3B+ instead

@steptoe I think you didn't read the entire post. It was the Power Supply that came with my Pi. "The LED may be drawing far too much power", that could be the Case, if I hadn't told in this post multiple times that the LED is not even connected to the Pi anymore. And, my Power Supply is enough for my Pi. My Pi worked flawless with Overclocking and with the Reset Switch. I just damaged my Pi with sodering the LED.

@dankcushions @jamesnj thanks for the replies, @jasonw how did you install your fan< did you put a hole in the case and place the fan there? and if not how did you install it because the case I will use has 2 holes/vents for airflow, one at the top and one at the bottom, so I am wondering whether the fan should go at the top or bottom vent or should it be installed into the case.

@quicksilver Thanks! The Flirc case will do the job then. I'm putting the case in my PS1 shell (hope it fits) so whether it's a Flirc or a Kintaro doesn't really matter. ;-)

My pi3 b+ came in today. The flirc cases fits fine. I'm using a thermal pad I had lying around from a pc gpu.

However , thinking about it a bit more, the higher the voltage and lower the amps, the less the resistance of the cable/fuse causes issues with heating etc, and lower voltage and amps cause higher heating due to resistance,

since polyfuses (according to wikipedia) "trip" from the heat build up during use. The lower voltage and higher amperage would heat it more, thus making it "trip"

I was having heating issues after overclocking for N64/Shader usage. Tried the cheap heatsink route, and as suggested, did very little (as you say, probably the glue used). I've also tried larger cases with fans but the way it was set up meant it was just pushing warm air around, it was cooler but nowhere near the results I got with my passive-cooling case.

I looked into Flirc cases and then stumbled across the BIQU case, it's about half the price and works fantastically. I've never had the thermal symbol show since using it and the case itself doesn't get too hot either (you can feel it is warm when being used, but no shocks or being too hot to touch as some have suggested with passive-cooling style cases).

I also added a little thermal paste on the points of contact - it may not be necessary but I had some lying around so thought it wouldn't hurt.

@caver01 said in Best case to keep raspberry pie 3 cool?:

I suppose I could just setup a nice little beer fridge next to the TV and build my project inside the ice section of that.

It sounds like a man cave in the making! ;)

I've never used anything bigger than 30MM which has always been sufficient. I think more important than bigger is managing air flow (if the Pi is completely enclosed) moving air over the components and exhausting it.

Basically seal the case, manage the air intake to keep negative pressure and it will move toward the fan. Like a PC pulling air from the front/side and venting back/top. I've never been a big proponent for positive pressure even though it will keep dust out better.

You could add a 2nd fan for intake but that just seems overkill unless you're a cooling enthusiast.

My case is completely open on all sides with the fan above the CPU pulling air straight up. I don't think much is going on there except it's pulling hot air straight up which pulls cool air from the sides but it runs very cool.

85c after 10 minutes and still climbing, it had also clocked itself down to 800mhz.

That sounds right as warnings (temp gauge upper right corner) start at 80C and auto-downclocking at 85C. I think optimal is 70C or below to cover all components as some of the miscellaneous chips are rated at lower max temps but I suppose that's harder to nail down the temp of some chip sitting off to the side of the CPU or memory.

@jiryn said in Would I have to worry about Overheating with an Aluminium case?:

@dankcushions
Interesting, though I have no clue what you mean by large compile in this circumstance, I am guessing loading or trying to run a large file, or intense program.
(Also, now I'd really like to know. Even with all my degrees and certifications, I feel like I learn something new everyday in my field of study... which I both love and hate.)

Thank you in advance!

no problem :) i mean you install something from 'source' via https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/updating-retropie#updatinginstalling-individual-packages

rather than downloading the application, this takes the latest code and 'builds' the application on your raspberry pi, which uses several CPU cores (almost every emulator only really uses one), and maxes them out for 30+ minutes.

I've had my PI 3 running for 93 days without ever shutting down. Emulation Station goes into a dimmed mode after a few minutes. What that does for power consumption, I don't know.

4 hours since last play system temperature is 42c. We have 21c in house. I don't have a heat sink, but I haven't attached the top lid either.

The nice thing about having it running 24x7 is that is gets out of dimmed mode nicely by pushing the X-button on the Xbox 360 controller and you're good to go...

@matchaman I use overlays. Reasonable CRT effect, not as teaching on the CPU.

I have now noticed that when the ds4 is conenected via bluetooth the thermometer appears in the corner even when the system is idle..

great :(

@ebtalk If it did not overheat after you physically attached the button and the behaviour only started after the script was installed then that is your issue. Remove the script. Reboot and see what happens. Then re-initialise the script. If it is the script then remove it and start again. To be honest it should work or not. It just sends a sudo shutdown -h now command to the Pi. Just seems very odd behaviour. Maybe find another script and compare the two.

@Marinho Great thread, thanks for the info. I've been noticing the same thing here. Playing with shaders causes the system to run really hot. I thought it was just cause I was playing PSX games. But when the thermometer started showing up with SNES games I knew something was up.