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Opinion on overclock settings



  • I have the 8bitdo M30.

    • It has 4 modes for different types of connectivity (macOS, dinput, xinput, nint-switch) and can also be used plugged in with a USB-C connection.
    • It comes with a 3ft USB type-C, Using the USB connection seems to lose function of two of the center navigation buttons, favourite and heart)
    • Holding the controller the way it is shaped I want to hold it higher, but can't operate the dpad unless I hold it lower, however it isn't at all challenging to hold it just right, I'm possibly just being picky.
    • The dpad maps as an axis in at least 2 of the 4 connection modes, but it is easy to press and use. The start button can't be held for more than 3 seconds because this shuts down the controller. Mapping the controls I expected wouldn't be easy, and it looks like I'll need to make emulator specific adjustments to get what I wan't out of it, this goes for the ES and RetroArch side.

    Other than that, I wish it had a select/mode button and came with a 6ft usb type-c.



  • @Efriim I think you made the right choice, buying a ps1classic is taking a step backward when you have a well curated retropie setup; it is just a money grab from sony.

    Having the controller shut down after holding the start button is a pretty cool feature, I wish the ds4 did that. Also a way to check battery level would be awesome.

    Maybe you can get functionality back for those 2 buttons with the xpad driver?



  • @GoldManSex778
    I returned the 8bitdo M30 for full credit to get the PSClassic of equal or lesser value. I will have two controllers and a console to hack. The specs of the psclassic are a slight improvement to the RPI3B I think it has the smaller and more efficient Arm Cortex A35 as opposed to the A53, running at 4x1.5ghz. The GPU and RAM are both significantly better with opengl3 and vulkan support, and ddr3. Development is furthering in modifying the underlying system for most emulation, it only has 16gb of internal emmc, no wireless and only 2 usb slots, it also keeps the archaic usb-micro power supply.

    I am expecting for it to arrive tomorrow.

    And onto overclocking. While still in the experimental ranges. I've been using an under-clock combined with an over-clock at:

    arm_freq=1200 #Maximum without reaching the next AVS level.
    gpu_freq=250
    core_freq=500
    sdram_freq=500
    #No over-voltage
    

    One of the top games I got; Armored Core 3 Portable on PPSSPP, I can get a steady 30fps with these settings. Where the core could go in the range of 460-530 on either end of performance; any more and I think it would need an over_voltage and any less and I think I would see the performance decrease for this emulation at least. Similarly the arm_freq=1200 any more at all and the over_voltage_avs_boost will take effect and increase the core operating voltage from 1.2375V to ~1.35V taking it down to arm_freq=1000 and the performance suffers. The sdram can be underclocked to 400 but it makes a wedge for the fps to drop occasionally, 450-500 isn't bad and the sdram can be overclocked independent of the core voltage and with greater stability behind the slower cores.



  • @GoldManSex778
    here are some small powersaving configurations to add to config.txt since you are using a nespi case.

    #disable both the onboard activity and power leds.
    dtparam=act_led_trigger=none
    dtparam=act_led_activelow=off
    dtparam=pwr_led_trigger=none
    dtparam=pwr_led_activelow=off
    

    i first read them here https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4258

    and if the ds4 is at all like the ds3, holding the ps(home) button down for 10 seconds will power it off, though that is a relatively long button press.


  • Global Moderator

    @Efriim How much 'power saving' yields disabling the LEDs ?



  • @mitu
    it may be enough



  • @mitu I have some experience wiring leds on models and stuff, depending on the size you need about 10 milliamps for a 1.6 mm led. So assuming the pi is drawing all 2.5 amps that would be a savings of ~0.5%. That’s with model train hobby leds, I imagine the led on the pi is smaller than 1.6 mm and probably more efficient.



  • @GoldManSex778
    Could you do something for me? To check the key values for the DS4 controller using evtest; evtest /dev/input/event4 | grep -E 'code|Testing'

    The output should look like this

    
        Event code 304 (BTN_SOUTH)
        Event code 305 (BTN_EAST)
        Event code 307 (BTN_NORTH)
        Event code 308 (BTN_WEST)
        Event code 310 (BTN_TL)
        Event code 311 (BTN_TR)
        Event code 312 (BTN_TL2)
        Event code 313 (BTN_TR2)
        Event code 314 (BTN_SELECT)
        Event code 315 (BTN_START)
        Event code 316 (BTN_MODE)
        Event code 317 (BTN_THUMBL)
        Event code 318 (BTN_THUMBR)
        Event code 544 (BTN_DPAD_UP)
        Event code 545 (BTN_DPAD_DOWN)
        Event code 546 (BTN_DPAD_LEFT)
        Event code 547 (BTN_DPAD_RIGHT)
        Event code 0 (ABS_X)
        Event code 1 (ABS_Y)
        Event code 2 (ABS_Z)
        Event code 3 (ABS_RX)
        Event code 4 (ABS_RY)
        Event code 5 (ABS_RZ)
        Event code 4 (MSC_SCAN)
        Event code 80 (FF_RUMBLE)
        Event code 81 (FF_PERIODIC)
        Event code 88 (FF_SQUARE)
        Event code 89 (FF_TRIANGLE)
        Event code 90 (FF_SINE)
        Event code 96 (FF_GAIN)
    
    

    I'd like to know if the event codes will match my DS3 with the sixaxis driver, if I will need to make additional configurations or no.



  • @Efriim Sorry, I just noticed your comment. Do you still want me to test that out?



  • @GoldManSex778
    I ended up getting a second DS3, I guess there is no need to save for curiosity.



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