Pi in a Burger King Gameboy Color Build - WIP

[obsidianspider]

@ivanretrobit Thanks for the pointer! I've already determined that the blue one is going to be my guinea pig. Since it was damaged when I got it I don't feel as bad about wrecking the edge.

[obsidianspider]

My parts from Adafruit came in. The 2" screen is a perfect fit. I got the I2S amp as well as the regular mono amp depending on if I think I can fit a headphone jack and USB sound card in the case or not, though right now I'm looking for a small enough speaker. I looked at some model railroad rectangular speakers, but even the tiny ones are pretty deep. Also, I got the tact switches from Adafruit to see just how clicky they are, and yeah, they're too clicky for this. I'm thinking about getting these from eBay. Does anyone know if those are quieter/less clicky? Ideally I'd make a custom PCB and use carbon pads from real buttons, but yeah, that's not happening, at least not with the first iteration.

I also ordered a red Gameboy Color toy from eBay that should be here in a day or so. I still really like the blue, even though I bungled the edges and the screen is damaged from when it was made, but if I decide to make that shell the learning tool (which it most likely is going to be) I'm not sure if I should make my "real" one out of the lime green or the red. What do you think?

[thedudester80]

@obsidianspider Yes those buttons still click but are much more natural feeling and quiet. =] Looking good so far.

[moosepr]

@obsidianspider they look like the ones i used on my little project. If they are, then they are totally silent, and have a nice soft feel (like the rubber domes of old) but do have a slight tactile feel when they activate

[obsidianspider]

@moosepr @thedudester80 Thanks! I'll order some then. I don't mind a somewhat clicky feel, but I don't want to hear it down the street. ;)

[pawpie]

I also bought some burger king toys of these months ago for this same exact project but never got around to it. What soldering iron are you going to use?

I am not very knowledgeable in a good quality soldering iron but i used a couple in the past before to replace batteries from gameboy/gameboy advance carts as well as other little projects. However the irons i bought were from dollar stores and while they did work they only lasted for a couple of uses, the tip was too thick for small projects like these.

[obsidianspider]

@pawpie I bought a Weller WESD51 earlier this year and I'm really happy with it.

[obsidianspider]

@moosepr said in Pi in a Dreamcast VMU Build - WIP:

@obsidianspider try it straight from the li-po :P most things are pretty tollerant.

The specs from Adafruit say that the 2" TV has an operating range of 6-15V. I gave it a shot, but it won't power on straight from the LiPo (which was reading 3.8V). From the PowerBoost it was getting 5.1V, and it turned on. I pulled out the only NTSC source I had handy (My test Pi Zero doesn't have TV-out soldered up) and "tested" for a while with some Donkey Kong Country on my childhood Super Nintendo. Just to make sure everything worked correctly. Yeah, that's it.

I was worried that being a NTSC source it'd look blurry, but with pixels so small, it's a really nice looking screen. Then again, for $40, it should be.

[moosepr]

@obsidianspider nawww it was worth a shot!!! you forget how tiny these things are when you are looking at datasheets and web listings. Its not until you see them next to real world items that it dawns on you :P

[obsidianspider]

@moosepr Yeah, working on these handhelds has really made me appreciate the luxury of how large consoles really are. If I ever build another non-portable Pi, I don't think space will be an issue for me.

[obsidianspider]

Testing that screen made me realize I have most of the parts for this build. I'm not sure what I've been waiting for. I still need to figure out the speaker situation as I have no idea which one ivanretrobit used in his (the model train store he referenced doesnt' seem to have ones on their website that match the size of the toy), but I can work on the rest of it.

After a quick mockup with the tact switches has me wondering if I even needed the repro full-sized GBC buttons at all. I guess I'll find out when I crack open the red one as it's the one I intend to use "for real". The "water" toys already have the D-pad area cut out, so things are lined up slightly differently than on the pachinko variant, which is what the blue one was.

I think I know what I'll be doing later today…

[obsidianspider]

I managed to get the red shell apart last night and while not 100% perfect, it's better than the blue one went. There's a slight ding at the top middle of the cartridge slot area that was created when I was trying to use an xacto knife to get the case apart and the knurl on the knife rubbed the plastic. The Start, Select, B, A "button" piece of plastic was glued to the case (you can see the remnants in the photo) and when I was trying to get it separated the front red plastic discolored a little bit near the Start and Select buttons when I started to pry at it from the inside. It's not terrible, and you don't really see it in photos, but I know it's there and it bugs me.

The Start and Select "buttons" are different than on the blue toy. On that one they were almost flush with the case, these are about 1mm taller, which doesn't sound like much, but it lets them stick out a bit, so you should be able to actually press them in, and hopefully it'll allow the button presses to register. They were all one piece of plastic, but I cut them in half when trying to separate them from the red shell. It'll have to be divided into individual buttons eventually anyway, so that's fine. A quick mockup of holding the perf board inside the case is showing that the A and B buttons align pretty well with the tact switches, so I am going to see if I can just reuse the ones from the tiny Gameboy instead of using the "real" ones I got from China. The D-Pad from the toy is actually the same size as a real GBC D-Pad, but the one in the toy doesn't have a round disc, and from what I've seen in repro controllers, having just the cross pattern doesn't work for some controls that requires angles and such. I may give it a try anyway, but that also means I wasted the money on the repro GBC buttons if I don't use any of them on this build. Oh well.

The real GBC D-Pad fits perfectly.

Taking the shell apart from the inside went way better than trying to get in from the edge on the outside. I cut out the middle of the back that will be covered by the old flip cover, then I used an x-acto knife to slice along the edge, and some snips to cut the thick posts. That worked for the bottom 2/3 of the case, but at the top two corners there were posts on either side that I couldn't get to. To access those I carefully pried apart the bottom of the case to give myself enough room to get the "screen" out (I had to chop the screen so it could get out of the case) and then I was able to go in through the screen hole with some snips and cut those posts and the case came apart. It still fits together well, and it has an overlapping edge that will seal it nicely.

[backstander]

@obsidianspider
I think you did a good job getting it apart! I was thinking that I might not have the patience to this and would probably crack it. The Start and Select buttons do look a little different. How odd. Seams like the factory that assembled these would've saved time and money if they made them all the same.

[obsidianspider]

@backstander As I was looking over the case just now I also noticed a small blob of clear glue near the top corner that must have always been there as I had glue nowhere near this thing. In looking over the green toy that I still have untouched, and will keep as a reference, that one also has some scratches and dings and imperfections, but I really think that's the nature of what these things were, cheap throwaway toys to be included with a kids meal.

If anyone is going to do this too, I highly recommend getting the "water" toy if you can. It seems best suited for it. Other ones you're at least going to have to cut out the D-Pad, which wouldn't be awful, but some have a sliding D-Pad and there is a huge slot in the front to accommodate that. There are also some silver and gold ones out there, but are usually really expensive.

Here's a screen shot from an eBay Auction that shows what I mean about the slot.

[obsidianspider]

@backstander said in Pi in a Burger King Gameboy Color Build - WIP:

Seams like the factory that assembled these would've saved time and money if they made them all the same.

The innards were very different, but yeah, the non d-pad buttons being different was weird.. The pachinko one had a little spring mechanism to flip balls into small cups. This water one had a little plunger thing that I guess would squirt water around? I don't know. It didn't work and I didn't see a way to refill it. My green toy is also a water one, and that doesn't have any fluid in it either.

[obsidianspider]

Today on my lunch hour I started to mess with placing components in the case, and after dealing with the depth issues on the Gameboy Advance, having that huge bulge on the back of this case will help tremendously.

I got the button perboard fitted. I had to rotate the tact switches from my initial mockup as they are 3x4 holes wide, and were off a bit when I put everything in the case, but I think things line up pretty well. I'm not sure how to go about either attaching the buttons to the tact switches, or keeping the buttons in place inside the case so they don't go flopping around all over the place. I'll have to read up on that.

I left extra space on the board because I'm not sure if I'll use some of the other points to join connectors, or just use the board area as a mounting point.

I'm also going to need to find a source for small screws to keep the case together. Ideally I'd like some small machine screws and nuts where I can glue the nut to the case and then have the screw thread into it.

[obsidianspider]

Tonight I got the controls wired up. Things got a little messier than I would have liked on the back, but it all works.

I then used Retrogame to get the Pi to see the controls as controller inputs, and I was able to test.

The default for Retrogame is to have Select act as the keyboard Space key, and unfortunately Gambatte sees that as Fast Forward. Mapping it to a different key solved the problem.

I tried putting things in the case and holding them together with my hands to test playability, and I kept shorting button presses, so I temporarily backed everything with electrical tape. My dodgy alignment and pressure on the board had some errant buttons being pressed, but I think it's going to work pretty nicely.

[obsidianspider]

I'm going to try experimenting with ABS cement to join the back of the case to the hinged piece. I bought some jars of baby food as they were the least expensive small glass jars that I could find at 63¢ each. The question now is, do I try the baby food?

[moosepr]

@obsidianspider babies seem to enjoy it, the biggest problem, what happens if you love it?

[obsidianspider]

@moosepr said in Pi in a Burger King Gameboy Color Build - WIP:

what happens if you love it?

More money for Pi projects!