Some process pics added

This is awesome, I too started with the Atari VCS, then moved on to the Atari 400 ( membrame keyboard, took ages to type and didn't always register a keypress - good but frustrating times) Then it was Atari 800XL, and Atari ST, before I switched to an Amiga 1200. How on earth did you get the console AND Combat game? Like hens teeth to get hold of both. Plus I am sure that an original River Raid game in it's box was sold recently for about £500!!!! Seriously though, this is one of the best retro builds I have seen. Nice job!

Son of a birch, that is a good looking cabinet!!! Love me some woodgrain, so this is glorious all around.

No, I'm building the controller, do you know any good joysticks, and if I use Nintendo Switch joysticks, would there be drift Also: ALL COMPENENTS MUST BE AVAILABLE FROM amazon.co.uk

@jamietuley said in Starting again.. New Pi image with Attract mode more recent than Floobs?: /home/pi/RetroPie/roms/mame-libretro Was that the right folder to place my roms in? They are from a 0.78 set - emulation station can see them but not attract mode? I can't help you with attract-mode setup, I'm not using it. I think you need to add the folder yourself and scan it for ROMs. I did wonder if the system volume at 0% was the issue but that's something that just wont save when I set it higher? If you disabled the on-board sound and your USB soundcard is the only output option, then the in EmulationStation the Audio Card should be set to 'Defaut' and the Default Device to PCM or Master (?). But the settings here affect only EmulationStation and not AttractMode or the emulators, so if you're not using EmulationStation, it's ok to leave them at defaults.

Okay, there is some problem with the onboard bluetooth. The documentation already mentions that the case interferes with 2.4 GHz wifi. The same is true for bluetooth, and I added a USB bluetooth adapter to mitigate that. Just for context, here is a comparison of uncached read performance: SSD $ sudo hdparm -tT --direct /dev/sda /dev/sda: Timing O_DIRECT cached reads: 520 MB in 2.00 seconds = 259.69 MB/sec Timing O_DIRECT disk reads: 902 MB in 3.00 seconds = 300.36 MB/sec SD $ sudo hdparm -tT --direct /dev/mmcblk0 /dev/mmcblk0: Timing O_DIRECT cached reads: 84 MB in 2.04 seconds = 41.13 MB/sec HDIO_DRIVE_CMD(identify) failed: Invalid argument Timing O_DIRECT disk reads: 124 MB in 3.02 seconds = 41.11 MB/sec Definitely worth the effort to me. Instructions for making the RPi4 boot from USB can be found here, btw.

Thank you for your feedback and assurance. I needed to discard that option so your feedback is so valuable. In the end, I have used the good ol' method: copy Pre made SD Image to SD card and set things up anew. I have elaborated the table below to clarify the relationship between an SNES USB Gamepad , its Retroarch Port Binds and Default Actions as a result of Hotkey Binds. It's just a bit of an expansion of the Default joypad hotkeys section in the Wiki article on RetroArch configuration +------------------+------------------------+----------------------------+-------------------------+ | SNES USB Gamepad | RetroArch Port 1 Binds | Default Action | Hotkey Binds | +------------------+------------------------+----------------------------+-------------------------+ | Up | -1 | [AI SERVICE] *Free to use* | SELECT + Up | | Down | +1 | [PAUSE] *Free to use* | SELECT + Down | | Left | -0 | Savestate Slot - | SELECT + Left | | Right | +0 | Savestate Slot + | SELECT + Right | | SELECT | 8 | HOTKEY | | | Start | 9 | Quit Retroarch | SELECT + Start | | A | 1 | *Free to use* | | | B | 2 | Reset | SELECT + B | | X | 0 | Menu Toggle | SELECT + X | | Y | 3 | *Free to use* | | | Left Shoulder | 4 | Load State | SELECT + Left Shoulder | | Right Shoulder | 5 | Save State | SELECT + Right Shoulder | +------------------+------------------------+----------------------------+-------------------------+ Select button in SNES USB Gamepad is set as the HOTKEY button Free to use means Retroarch does not set a default Action, so it can be used for any purpose. [ACTION] = name of the manually-set action Setting a specific Hotkey Bin to pause the gameplay [PAUSE] seems particularly useful when setting AI Service Pause Toggle to ON (RGUI > Settings > AI Service): Retroarch will pause gameplay, allowing time to read translated text, to continue only upon pressing the Pause Hotkey Bind. And of course, Hotkey Binds for actions can be redefined. Cheers,

Nice job man! Definitely an upgrade from the cardboard box! =D Very clean and I'd digging the shallow depth.

@TechNovice the biggest thing I would have changed is I would not have used melamine wood, however, then it would not have been a "recycled" project. The angled edges of the melamine cuts like of SOB. Also, Paint adherence has been problematic. I would have also figured out a better method of attached the bezel/plexi where it could be removed without removing the entire monitor for cleaning. Third, the nintendo logo on the marquee is a bit too big, so I had to use double stick tape to secure the marquee instead of a bezel mount. That I can fix, I just need to make a new graphic.

@mitu Ohhhh thanks. Yup I would have totally been making a “how do I fix this” thread if you hadn’t said that.

@Metro-City Thats a bug in the grid code of emulationstation.

@Clyde I'm not sure yet, I only took a moment to map because I'm waiting for an image to come out. Then I'll take the time to map properly. @UDb23 thank you!

@Clyde Thank you for the kind words :)

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@Clyde said in My SEGA Master System RetroPie build (in progress - almost done): Very nice! I always liked the design of the Sega Master System, much more than the JP & US versions of the Famicom/NES. The LEGO is a nice geeky way to fix things. 🤓 Thanks! I love the SMS design too. The SG-1000II and the Mark III are beautiful too. The LEGOs, super glue and hot glue did the job great!

I've been meaning to provide an update for the for a while so here goes. I still haven't fully resolved the issues with the controllers but I've not really had a good stab at it yet. A few more photos; generally I'm happy. When reassembled the fan blows straight across the compute module (which was the idea) so adding a heat sink so keep it nice and cool. The HDMI port in not fully aligned - not a major problem but the perfectionist in me doesn't like it - that on the list of changes if there's ever a next version. Also, I'm not too keen on the empty hole to the right, might be an idea to add another USB port in future. Front USB port fits nicely into a slightly modified memory card port but doesn't sit at the correct height - something else to be tweaked. As for the next version, this is on hold for now. One of the original aims for using the Compute Module was future upgradability base on the assumption future Compute Modules would keep the same interface/footprint. The ultimate hope was the come CM4 or CM5 the power might be there for GameCube emulation. However, I've read that future versions might deviate from the SO-DIMM 200 interface, hence I'll hold off on making any more hardware changes with this until there's more clarity on what the future holds. It's been a fun process and has taught me a lot on the way - which was the real aim anyway!