(WIP) Starting my first case mod. PS2 slim. Help and feedback greatly appreciated!
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@Sturo that's a lot of wires! BTW, desoldering and replacing the small resistors isn't that difficult, especially with a little practice, just need some tweezers, flux and solder wick. Just be mindful, that without replacing those resistors with smaller ones, your LEDs will be super dim, if they even light up.
Also, I thought of another idea for your project. You have two female USB plugs on that cutback board. If you dremel the cutback board a little around both USB ports (to disconnect them from anything else on the board) you could then take a used USB cable, plug one end into the Pi's USB, and cut the other end off to expose wires. You could then solder the wires to their respective pins on the USB plug (on the broken board). Then repeat this for the other USB plug on the broken board.
There is a standard for USB, so you can find out what color wires go to which pins. This would effectively make the USB plugs on the outside act as extensions for two of the Pi's USB. If you do this, try to cut the wires back as little as possible (from where they connect to the USB ports) so that you aren't losing too much of the metal sheathing.
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@Wulf That is exactly what I am going to (try) to do with the female USBs. Thanks for the tip on the shielding, I didn't think of that.
As far as the LED's go, I am going to try my luck just running 5v to them and hope for the best. I do need to figure out how to run both LEDs, but have the red light up when there is power to the unit but it isn't on, and have the green come on when the unit is actually on. Probably have to make some kind of script or something? Blah!
Also, I set up a breadboard and have successfully gotten the power button to work! Next up is the leds, then IR!
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@Sturo if you are using the gpio pins on the pi, I'd stay away from using any voltage higher than 3.3V. According to that gpio specifications I linked earlier, "A GPIO pin should never be connected to a voltage source greater than 3.3V or less than 0V."
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@Wulf even if the LED's have resistors on them?
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@Sturo I used this guide for the IR and I never had any problem, it works with any remote (including the PS2 one) and you don't need any any additional board. I don't know if LIRC (the software needed to configure the remote) it's included RetroPie, but if it isn't it could be installed.
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@Sturo in the gpio block diagram shown in the gpio-specifications link previously posted, it shows that there is a diode that will forward bias, connecting the pin to the 3.3V supply, when the voltage to it is slightly greater than 3.3V. The voltage will go to the diodes before the resistors, and at 5V, you should be forward biasing both the LED and the diode connecting the GPIO pin to the 3.3V supply line. With your resistor lowering the current from the remaining voltage not dropped by both LED and diode, you might not have enough power to damage the pi (right away) or you might. If you do this, there is no guarantee that you won't damage the pi, and it is most highly probable that using the pi for something that it was not specified to do will void any warranty.
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@Sage-Freke is there any difference in GPIO pins becuase that is an older Pi? (Thanks for the guide!)
@Wulf Alright, I will hook the LEDs up to the 3.3v and see how they look.
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Thanks again for all your help!
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@Sturo will are you create a splashscreen like ps2 splashscreen ?
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@godhunter74 Yes I will probably do a custom splashscreen with a PS2-like intro but with a raspberry pi logo or retropie logo.
@Sage-Freke ok cool, I will follow that tutorial when I figure out how I am going to wire the IR to the GPIOs.
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@Sturo i'll follow your thread waiting for that...
I'm a recalbox user but i like retropie because there is a fabulous community !!! -
@Sturo looks like it's starting to come together!
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So I am working on the IR sensor, I got it all hooked up to the GPIO, but when I go to test the functionality, it is receiving a constant signal from something. I checked all the wires, nothing is crossed, the LIRC service is stopped, and the lights are off. Weird. Maybe the IR sensor just isn't supposed to work when directly wired to a Pi. Any suggestions?
EDIT: After some research, I had a wireless mouse right next to the IR sensor, and that was giving it a false signal. Moved it away and yay it works!
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We have success! Got the remote working properly! Wasn't too fun but it's doing its thing.
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Just a quick pic.
Getting the fitment down, looking good though!
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Nice! Keep up the great work!
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man, and i had just decided to do a similar build. i wasn't planning on re-purposing and original parts of the ps2. I was going to purchase a purple clear ps2 slim case and just stuff the pi 3 into it and run the cables out of it and maybe fill in any unused holes. i just dont think im skilled enough to do the soldering or anything you are doing.
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@Eastwind4869 Nahman, I am not particularly skilled at soldering or anything, just determined I guess. If you need any tips on wiring or anything, hit me up, I'm a pro now! J/K. I also got the snail shaped fan to work as well, but I don't have any room for it.
ANYWAYS, now comes my favorite part of the build, design and painting. The pieces of the case are currently in the garage drying, as I have painted them as close to the original silver color I could find at the hobby store. Now that I will soon have a clean slate, I am thinking on how I want to address the logos and stuff. I whipped up a few concepts in Photoshop, let me know what you think and which one you like best!
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@Sturo a couple suggestions. First is to to turn your cpu heatsink the other direction. The wifi and bluetooth seem to have more interferance with the heatsink faced that direction. The other thing is that you cut off the airflow to the ram on the bottom. It gets quite hot. You might want to find a way to get airflow to the bottom of the pi.
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