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Cabinet build - almost finished



  • @Gee thats an interesting thread, with an interesting question in the second to last post ;)



  • @Capeman right, so that confirms that the ipac2 gets the job done,
    cheers



  • @Darksavior im looking on ebay, I am an Ebay verteran (probably more than 15 years) and I spotted some very misleading items that almost got me, its only in the very last text that the seller states they are OEM substitutes. Sneaky sneaky chinaman.

    Im looking at an item :
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Japan-Original-Sanwa-Joystick-8-OBSF-30-Push-Buttons-Arcade-Games-Mame-Jamma/201684900583?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

    however, annoyingly that seller doesnt have the screw type buttons, and he is the only seller I can see that has a genuine bundle, I found another with the Sanwa joystick, but OEM buttons, I wanted light up buttons for kicks and giggles, but I think I would rather have a button that works well.

    im tempted to get this joystick:
    https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Seimitsu-LS-32-01-Arcade-Joystick.html

    and hunt some screw buttons from somewhere else.



  • I use https://www.focusattack.com/ for all my arcade buttons. I like ebay, but alot of those arcade part bundles are misleading. Focus attack is a store for fighting game enthusiasts who build their own fight sticks, they carry a really good selection of joysticks buttons and encoders. They are also based in the states so shipping time is quick (unless you're on the other side of the puddle, haha).



  • @spruce_m00se Not sure where you're located, but check out focusattack.com for high quality components. They're actually located pretty close to me, but I've not attempted a cabinet build just yet.



  • Hey, there's an echo in here! HAHAHAH!



  • @Capeman I wish i was still on the other side of the Ocean, im in the middle of the desert in the middle east in an overseas stay. Life would be easier from home, shipping exists!



  • I have been playing a bit with photoshop to get some nice 80's inspired artwork for the side of the cabinet, this is what I have so far.

    Image
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    side

    this is what is evolved into over the weekend.
    I decided that the large Master control program image was shite. I have sneakily included it into the red line at the top, I want the MCP to be there, it used to scare the life out of me as a kid, so will be there.



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    Today I was thinking about it a bit more, i thought i may prefer to wall mount the cabinet and make it a bit less intrusive, since I dont actually need the space for a CRT in it. After a google search I found the "polycade" which looks great, and gave the idea of having two mounting heights, that way i can mount it higher when I want to play it, or lower it when the kids want to play.! perfect.
    I went ahead and did some reverse engineering of the polycade from some images in order to get the rough dimensions and angles, then decided I wanted it to be a bit more traditional looking, so added sides that overhang the edges and a marquee box, and viola! I also managed to squeeze it all onto a 4*8ft sheet, brilliant!



  • @AndersHP I ordered my stuff from www.arcadeworlduk.com and it was in my hands less than 48 hours later, and I live in the middle east! this is amazing customer service if ever I saw it.
    it was very well packaged too. They now come highly recommended in my book



  • @spruce_m00se good to hear that! I'm overly satisfied as well!



  • @spruce_m00se for the cabinet research bearing guided or following router cutters. Make a template out of 6mm for the sides. Invest your work into that getting the shape of the template perfect. Then screw the template onto the inside of your sides and trim it to the template. You can also put any screw holes or aligning features on your template so it comes out exactly the same for both sides.
    Always rotate the router away from your belly when you put it down
    Make sure you stuff is secure
    Make sure you don't trip. Go slow and concentrate on the bearing.
    If you wobble it's fooked so keep it flat at all times



  • I had pretty much come to the conclusion that a plunge router with a bearing guided bit was the way forward for getting the sides right, I got my plan down so that with 7 cuts most of the straight lines were taken care of, and I got the MDF cut at the store.

    I have done one side with a jigsaw, then touched it up with a rasp and a file, then I just used the router to copy that to the other side, and it has worked very well.

    I have four more pieces to cut, all straight, with the jigsaw, then I am ready to start assembly.
    I will post some pics once assembly begins.



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    This is the intended mounting height of the cabinet, I will mount it on the wall, thats the idea.

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    here is the sketching onto the MDF, quite a lot easier to get right than I had imagined it would be thanks to the CAD model being infront of me, I could measure any distance I wanted on the model.

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    using the router to get both halves exactly the same, this was a massive win, although I could get em close with a jigsaw, I bashed the second side out in about 30 mins total. I used a rasp and file to clean up the curves etc before "copying" them onto the second half.

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    all the bits offered up and held in place with some tape to check the fit, there are a few bits I want to change.

    All in all this came out well, its the first time I have done anything like this, i messed up one piece which is 2mm too short, its up at the marquee, im thinking of changing that area a bit to make it look better, we will see in the morning, im off to watch Narcos for a bit.



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    All screwed together,

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    I have a piano hinge between the screen board and the keyboard, I dont know which one of the two I want hinged yet, I guess it has to be the keyboard as the screen is accesible from the back anyway, I would like to be able to change the viewing angle for the screen though



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    My pi overheated whilst playing quake 3 arena last night, I 3d printed a case to hold an 80mm fan above it, currently powered from a seperate 12v power supply, I now challenge the Pi to get warm again!

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    its coming along nicely,



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  • Here are a few shots of the completed cabinet, I put some bright white led strips up the back and under the keyboard, along with RGB leds around the back to light the wall up.

    I have three buttons next to the screen that control the volume and power of the TV, with a few multiclick combos they also toggle the fan on and off and toggle the white LEDS on and off. currently the RGB leds are on their original remote, although im in the process of having the arduino control them also.

    I have a pin on the Pi connected to the arduino, to shut it down, although I have yet to implement the code, I need the arduino to not be powred by the pi in order to turn it back on, will do that shortly,

    there are a few issues such as the ipac2 double pressing each button, which makes fighting games difficult,

    I decided to omit a Marquee in favour of a place to leave my remotes and drinks whilst playing,
    and for sound, well its been an ongoing saga, I got an amp from arcadeworld uk and it was shot when it arrived so got a refund, I got a diy amp kit, soldered one channel up, but didnt know about negative biased power supplies, and thus conencted it to a DC power supply and it smoked, so I intend eventually to make the other channel and properly test it, it should be 2 x 50WRMS, so it will eventually crank, but for now I give up, speakers are sat on the floor, I need to put them in the screen panel somewhere, will do it next week maybe.

    and finally I need to go round all of the joints with some black silicon to hide the cuts that werent straight as the light shines through them. But all in all im very happy with it

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  • @spruce_m00se see puzzle bobble being played
    0_1501694788513_508.jpg



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