I decided to update my question, just in case someone comes back to look at this asking the same question I was.
I'm using joystick encoders instead of a keyboard encoder. What I found is that retroarch allows you to setup a mouse for use with the game. So my trackball goes in as mouse 1. Since I do not have a UI running on my setup, I don't actually need mouse buttons. I only need the trackball input for the games.
What all this means is that the retroarch setup will use a joystick along side the trackball... meaning the buttons going through the joystick controller work along side the track ball and I don't need extra buttong for left and right mouse clicks.
@sgc1 Hi there, what dimensions are you looking for? I created my cabinet in Fusion 360 and had the MDF parts CNC'd at a local firm. I had to work out all the dimensions from scratch seeing as its not a 1:1 replica. The main criteria for the size of the final cabinet was determined by the size and positioning of the yoke, 17" screen and the fact that I would be standing as in a 'real arcade'. I got this final measurement from an arcade show we have here in the UK. I was lucky enough to get actual measurements from a real cabinet of how high the yoke was from the ground. After that was determined, everything else fell into place. As you will no doubt have noticed, I have a 'riser' just like the Arcade1up products. This allowed me to keep the dimensions of the cabinet in proportion. Had I not went for the riser, the cabinet would have looked rather tall and ungainly to get the yoke up to playing height. I did not want to make a 1:1 replica as this would have been a monster, about 6 inches wider and a lot taller than my final build.
Also need to buy another button anyway as currently using a spare arcade button.
While each switch may have its specific bouncing characteristics, I don't think it will eliminate the issue. I believe bounce is just a normal characteristic of mechanical switches.
There might be another issue causing this too... If you use a digital low to trigger something, the digital line on the RPI should be "pulled high". This is because the input may float up/down causing false triggers. If you pull the input high (3.3V in case of RPI), it will always sit far from its low threshold (around 1V for RPI). When you push the button, it will be pulled down to zero. To pull a digital line up high, you would typical use a resistance between the 3V rail and the digital input unless the board does so itself.
This video says RPI can be configured to do so, therefore I must assume the script you are using configures the input with a pull up resistor, if not, then that might be the issue.
Press it again and the pi starts, half way through the splash screen it then shuts down again.
Sorry, I want to double confirm this... when this other undesired shutdown happens, what happens exactly? 1) graceful shutdown 2) power just turns off suddenly 3) it reboots
From what you've said, it would be #1 as you see the shutdown messages, but I wanted to be certain.
What button are you using? Does it have 2 or 3 pins? If it has 3 pins, which ones did you use? You might find 'C', 'NO' and 'NC' labels. A picture of the connections and or labels would help. I haven't tested this but I am wondering whether you connected C and NC, instead of C and NO.
@wstanek Not every vertical game is 4-way, though. Many arcade SHMUPs are vertical and 8-way. But with either the xboxdrv (item 2D) or switchable Joysticks like the Ultimarc Mag-Stik Plus (I have two of them built into my upright cabinet, see my review here), that wouldn't be an issue.
@mitu I had the same issue. It would always ask for a password on first game only. I followed the guides to no avail and found my problem was where in the file I put the user. It must go at the end of the sudoers file after the #includedir line. Once I did that it loaded without asking for permission. I doubled checked by rebooting and running emulationstation again and it loaded as expected. Hope this provides some clarity. This StackExchange thread is where I finally figured out my error.
Mostly not at 4:3 or 5:4, as I said, because they haven't been manufactured in bulk in almost a decade. It is actively hard to find a brand new 4:3 or 5:4 LCD panel. 99% of new monitors are 16:9 or 16:10.
Nice job buddy! I have finished my large cab too and was thinking about doing a small upright like this. I like how you have the shape and it's not the same as every other generic bar top...looks original.