Making a bartop arcade and need some help!

[retroprogrammer]

thanks mate, that is very helpful for my build, also my arcade will be 2 players

[retroprogrammer]

here is a design I have drawn:

[rbaker]

@retroprogrammer I followed: http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Player-Bartop-Arcade-Machine-Powered-by-Pi/

[retroprogrammer]

@rbaker thanks for the post

[retroprogrammer]

should I get buttons and all the tech before starting of my case? and can I use a U mold instead of a T mold?

[rbaker]

@retroprogrammer I did. It's important to build the internal workings and prove it all works then you can build a case that you know will house your innards. I have seen many a case with components rammed in with all sorts of stresses on cables. Here is my take on the above instructable. No idea about U moulding.

[Lurker]

I would recommend getting the "innards" first. You can set up a functional test way before the cabinet is finished.

I used a cardboard box to make a quick controller to test out the buttons and make sure the wires are all okay and then started setting up the retropie image, theme, rom set etc. all before the cabinet was even close to finished. Doing this also allowed me to think on and decide how I wanted certain features like the master power switch and a hinging controller deck.

U molding will work but there are a couple of things to watch out for. Some U molding has ...fins? ...teeth? ...what ever you want to call it.

And you have to compensate for that or the U molding will curve out.

A similar issue is that some U molding has thick walls and so the edge to grip needs to be thinner then the rest of the side material for the U mold to sit mostly flush. This can be solved with a router. Or you could make a channel with your dremel for the, I'm going to say fin until someone gives me a better name.

Last complication U molding has is that it does not like drastic angle changes. you will have to cut the side walls to go around 90 deg outside angles and 90 inside angles and for the inside angles the separation will be visible. With T molding you do the same thing but you cut the leg of the T and it goes in the track so you can't see it.

If you are using MDF you can just sand the edges round of the same effect. T-molding was used originally to both hide the particleboard edge and provide padding against damage from bumps and kicks and such.

Question for you. Are you planning on using just the joysticks or usb controllers too? I ask because If you want USB game pads, then I would definitely recommend adding a USB flush mount connector to the project. Way better than trying to get into the back of the thing every time.

Also IF you are going to have USB game pads I have found the Marque space at the top makes very good storage. Just add a hinge to the marque face and a magnet latch to keep it from flopping around.

[retroprogrammer]

@lurker said in Making a bartop arcade and need some help!:

Question for you. Are you planning on using just the joysticks or usb controllers too?

Yes I am going to have USB controllers just in case, some one come for a visit and they have more then 2 kids to keep them entertained

[Clyde]

@retroprogrammer said in Making a bartop arcade and need some help!:

I am going to have USB controllers just in case, some one come for a visit and they have more then 2 kids to keep them entertained

I have two wireless Wii U Pro gamepads in addition to the built-in joysticks of my cab for the same reasons, yet more for grown-up visitors rather than for kids. Most of my friends in their forties to fifties are still kids inside anyway. ;)

[retroprogrammer]

That reminds me of when my parents come around, they love retrogames