Pi in a Sega Genesis USB Hub Build
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@hansolo77 I'm having a hard time visualizing what you've got going on with the power switch area. If you can post a picture I can try to help. Otherwise I'd say try to look at what I did with mine and what @edmaul69 did with their switch. You want the plastic switch slid all the way over to "ON" and the electrical switch in the "ON" position and then slide it as far over to the side as you can, so it's closest to the USB hub's board, not centered on the switch area. That way when you move things you don't bump into the volume slider area. Sorry that this is hard to articulate, but pictures do really help a lot.
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I took it all out and put it the way it was before. Aside from the missing support pins, you'd never know I was fidgeting with the switch in the first place. I'll try and get some pictures of the switch area Tuesday (my next day off). I thought I explained it well enough, but maybe it got lost in the long winded details. :)
Essentially, I discovered that hot glue isn't strong enough to mount the switch to the case. It's too "gooey" (for lack of a better word) to prevent the "new" switch housing from moving when the "old" switch was being thrown. Even after I let it dry for an hour, the whole thing "wobbled". It was enough that I noticed the "new" switch wasn't making contact inside it's housing. The whole housing was was moving, not the little black switch part. Is that better? I think I need something like superglue, or maybe something to have on either side of the housing to prevent it from moving.
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@hansolo77 you need to apply hotglue to 3 sides. You really need to use high temp hotglue which also requires a high temp gun. Also smearing the glue makes it stronger than just blobbing it on. You want to get it to adhere to the surfaces not just sitting on top of it.
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@hansolo77 mausberry has restock on the switches. Got an email not long ago. Just ordered me 3
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@antricluc Cool... I actually signed up on their page for a restock notice too, but never got it. I'll order mine right away!
@edmaul69 Thanks, I'll try doing this again tomorrow.
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LOL :) I checked, the 2-spring circuit is still unavailable. <sadface>
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@hansolo77 why the spring header? Can't you just do the same on the USB one?
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@antricluc there isnt enough room in the genesis usb hub to cram a regular one in it.
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@edmaul69 ahhhh because your using the pi 3 yes? I'm using the zero so I should be good with USB you think?
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@antricluc that would still be an issue. Onece you plug the mausberry into the pi then a cable into that you need to remove the hub to fit it in.
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Correct. There's not enough room. I have my broken Mausberry that I received (DOA) for my NES build. I fit it in there, but in order to make it work, you need to either plug the other end into the Pi (which would mean having it sticking WAY out the back of the case) or run it via a MicroUSB to MicroUSB cable, which would over clutter the insides of the case. Plus, in order to have the HDMI and Composite flush with the case, you don't really have room to install a cable into the power on the Pi. I suppose if you were going to go that route, you could just cut off the MicroUSB plug (and maybe 2 inches of wire), plug the cable into the Mausberry, then run the wires to the pads on the Pi. But you'd have to cannibalize a cable, and I'd hate to do that. Plus, I don't have a working circuit anyway to experiment with.
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@cyperghost Did I hear my name? I wish the forum would have notified me that I was mentioned...I could have given some input.
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@adamspc yes it is about your power on-off circuit.
Can you tell us how it is working and is it possible to lower shipment costs? -
@cyperghost
It works off a momentary switch. Pushing the button will immediately power the board on. It will stay on, so you don't have to hold the button. Holding the button for 3 seconds will power the board off.It has a feature that makes it shut off after the poweroff command is run on the Pi. It does this without any extra software as long as you have the TX pin unused. The third feature is that you can connect to a GPIO pin and use that pin to look for the switch to be pressed, and then issue a shutdown command. The process is explained here.
I'm selling them at a pretty good price considering I'm making them myself. Also, I'm using USPS, and shipping didn't seem to bad to me. They charge around $3 for USA and $8-14 for international. If you guys know of a different shipping company with better prices I don't mind trying someone different.
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@adamspc Thank you for quick reply :)
A shipment to europa costs about 14$ and if I would take two the value gets to 28$. I think you can send it in a envelope and then the transport costs would lower to 5$ and then I am your man :) -
@cyperghost Yea that was a problem with the shipping calculator on my site. It's fixed now and it combines everything into one package. You can get as many as you want and it will charge $14.
I'm not sure how I feel about using an envelope. I'll see whether the thickness is allowed.
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@adamspc The price is really hot ... I know you make them on your own and I appreciate your solid work.
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@cyperghost or if someone over there wants to purchase a bunch of them maybe I can cover some or all of the shipping cost
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@cyperghost
Also, here is a soldering guide I put together for the board. It give a pretty good overview of the board's function and capabilities.
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