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    Please do not post a support request without first reading and following the advice in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

    Chassis mount Pi3 power supply, thoughts?

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    pi3power supplypowerblockchassis mount
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    • briankrossB
      briankross
      last edited by briankross

      Pi Model: 3 Model B
      RetroPie Version Used: 3.8.1
      Built From: SD Image
      USB Devices connected: Standard keyboard, x2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad
      Controller used: x2 Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad

      I'd like to bounce this off the community before moving forward.

      In short , I'm planning to build an arcade control panel that fits on a lap. All components will be mounted inside. A locking IEC power cord will go to the wall, and a locking HDMI cable (Neutrik connector) will go from the control panel to the living room TV. I'd love to build a cabinet, but we don't have the room, and that's another story... :-)

      Planning wise, my last major consideration is what to do about a power supply inside the laptop style control panel. I hope to make it as thin as possible, so perhaps finding a mountable power strip isn't the best idea, and they usually have a power switch... and the direction of the outlet is important when mounting (and thus securing) the wall wart. I'm fairly handy with electrical components and soldering, so I thought about making a power supply, but quickly realized I'm very rusty with power supply design, and I could probably find one ready made.

      Since I've determined (I think!) that all of the power requirements for the controller and all of it's components can be handled only by supplying power to the rPi3 just like I'm doing with the wall wart. I started searching for a ready made power supply that meets the requirements to mount inside the controller to replace the wall wart.

      Conditions

      Power connections

      • Wall outlet to IEC cable to switched IEC chassis mount socket (v-lock equipment AC, can be disconnected from chassis)
      • IEC chassis mount socket (inside panel) to power supply AC input
      • Power supply DC output to barrel connector
      • Barrel connector to PowerBlock
      • PowerBlock to chassis LED, and SPST switch
      • Note: This controller will have passive ventilation

      Controls and things that draw power from USB

      • x1 iPac 2 OR Mini Pac
      • x1 SANWA JLW-TM-8 Ball Top Joystick
      • x1 HAPP 3" Solid Color Trackball with USB Interface
      • x12 buttons (approximately)
      • x2 SNES gamepads (only when playing NES games)
      • x1 USB Keyboard (on occasion, I'll unplug one or both of the gamepads)

      Power supply thoughts

      What I came up with so far is the Delta Electronics PMC-05V015W1AA, and here's the data sheet.

      Here's what I like about it (much fancier than I could build!):

      • Wide input voltage range: 85VAC to 264VAC (I'm in North America, but I can take it anywhere!)
      • Output voltage: 5.1VDC (see line below)
      • Output Voltage Adjustment Range: 4.75VDC - 5.5VDC
      • Output current: 3.0A
      • Short circuit, over-voltage, over-current and over-temperature protections
      • Terminal block connections
      • EMI filter
      • It's about $17 USD

      Other power supplies considered:

      • Mean Well RS-15-5 here's the data sheet.
        • This one is along the same lines as the Delta Electronics, but with a 14 week wait and lower cost...
      • Bel Power Solutions MBC40-1005G here's the data sheet (link may not work).
        • This one is $30 USD, has 8A output current, seems overkill

      Questions

      • What do you think of this power supply? Is it the wall wart replacement I think it is and then some or am I missing something?
      • (If I'm on track) I'm thinking of using 16AWG from the IEC to AC input terminals, and 22AWG to the barrel connector that plugs in to the PowerBlock, and spade (or ring) crimp terminals
      • What size barrel connector is used for the PowerBlock, they just say it should fit common sizes

      Thanks for having a look at this!

      • Brian
      briankrossB 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • briankrossB
        briankross @briankross
        last edited by

        @briankross

        I'm planning to move forward with this. Any insight is welcome.

        • Brian
        caver01C 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • caver01C
          caver01 @briankross
          last edited by

          @briankross I am definitely going to watch this. I'd like to simplify my own power requirements. As it stands, I have a 3-socket powerstrip (Ikea) mounted inside my cabinet. A lot of space is taken up supporting all of the power blocks and wiring, so I am anxious to find out more too. I guess you have honors and I am just going to stand back on the fringe and watch you putt first. ;-)

          My 4-player cocktail style cabinet built as a custom "roadcase"

          briankrossB 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • briankrossB
            briankross @caver01
            last edited by

            @caver01

            I'll build a prototype out of an old plastic bin with some wood on the bottom for mounting things. Depending how fast I get the parts together from the different vendors it'll probably be a few weeks. I'll post my findings.

            Just to get another pair of eyes on the specs, have a look and tell me what you think. I don't want to overlook something silly.

            • Brian
            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • briankrossB
              briankross @caver01
              last edited by briankross

              @caver01

              I put in an enquiry to the manufacturer asking if the voltage output is clean and suitable for powering a computer. Since it's a switching power supply rather than linear, the current switching can cause electrical noise problems if not carefully filtered.

              In their block diagram I do see an EMI filter and some other things that may take care of this, but asking the question directly saves a lot of issues down the road.

              • Brian
              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • briankrossB
                briankross
                last edited by

                Update: I'm scrapping the idea of locking IEC, it's too hard to find chassis mount and cable combinations. Some with lead times of 14 weeks. Using Neutrik powerCON instead.

                Specifically:

                • NAC3FCA
                • NAC3MPA-1
                • SCL
                • Brian
                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • J
                  Jae Sang LEE
                  last edited by

                  I think good power supply is Bel Power Solutions MBC40-1005G.
                  because, Output Current 8A support.
                  Raspberrypi model 3b power supply is need 13W (5.2V, 2.5A).
                  but, your project will is need over current.

                  briankrossB 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • briankrossB
                    briankross @Jae Sang LEE
                    last edited by

                    @Jae-Sang-LEE

                    Do you think a switching power supply will be an issue?

                    • Brian
                    J 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • J
                      Jae Sang LEE @briankross
                      last edited by Jae Sang LEE

                      @briankross said in Chassis mount Pi3 power supply, thoughts?:

                      Do you think a switching power supply will be an issue?

                      yes, i forecast it.

                      2 years ago, i am variety design retropie project on raspberrypi.

                      ours lately project is use over 5v 3A power supply, because raspberrypi mode 3b

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                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • briankrossB
                        briankross
                        last edited by

                        For those keeping an eye on this thread, so far so good! For about a week the Delta PMC-05V015W1AA seems to be working just fine, runs cool, the rPi runs fine, I'll test the analog audio output soon just to see if it's clean. It does have a soft high pitch harmonic tone, but inside any enclosure should be completely unheard.

                        • Brian
                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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