If you power the RPi using the microUSB of the RPi itself you will loose the power switch and reset functions on the Powerblock. When the Powerblock is used as designed using its microUSB connector, power to the RPi is controlled by the Powerblock and routed to the Power and Ground pins of the GPIO connector. When the RPi is booted up the driver and control service of the Powerblock will initialy interrogate the status of the Powerblock board and intitiate the boot up process. If the microUSB on the RPi is used to as power source, all of this is bypassed and the RPi will power up as if the Powerblock does not exist. The only way to use microUSB on th RPi together with the Powerblock is to isolate the RPi's micrUSB connections from the RPi itself (cut the traces from the RPi) and rewire them to the Powerblock's microUSB connector. Doing so is a mute, waste of time, potentially damaging to the RPi exercise.

Never mind. Checked on Reddit and got a hit for the problem I believe. Just used the PowerBlock installer in the setup menu. Seemed to work at a glance.

I got everything working flawlessly with a different power supply: 5.2V, 3A. :)

@retroisbest I'm not having issue cause I hadn't buy the case yet. I don't know how to help you

Hi ! It is misteriously back to normal working. Thanks for responding!

All right. I took a look into the sources of the ControlBlock driver. The same issue that caused the slow shutdown for the PowerBlock also existed there. I have fixed that now.

@douga as @tba mentioned, the scientific term is PEBKAC.

I don’t know the exact pi out of the pi2scart, but you can find the used pins of the PowerBlock at https://blog.petrockblock.com/powerblock-raspberry-pi-power-switch/: S1: pin 12 S2: pin 11 If this does not collide with the pi2scart, it should work.

Can you post the output here? I just checked the installation script with the current RetroPie image and everything went fine for me. I have also added a screencast that shows the console output for the installation. You can find it in the "Videos" section at https://blog.petrockblock.com/powerblock-raspberry-pi-power-switch/.

@alturis I think @johnny5126 means a power strip with one "master" socket and a number of "slave" sockets. If the device connected to the master socket draws power, the slave sockets will be powered by the strip automatically.

@paulmartin Try looking into the options described in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/672/a-stop-job-is-running-for-lsb-controlblockservice-init-script/18, either boot the Pi in 'safe mode' or mount the card from another Linux system and delete the powerblock driver start script to stop the reboot cycle.

Hi mate! Nice job. You've made what I am planning since a while, but due to lack of time (kids and work), I couldn't make it. You've chewed me a lot of time. Still, I have one or two questions about your wiring. The place where the power plug was, is that a bridge that you've placed? And had cut any circuit? Can you make me a small schema about where to where you've plugged the wires. I am on smartphone so I can't analyse properly the solders you've made. The led, is the original one? Thanks for your help, and once again, nice work!

Have you been able to set it up so that the reset button works as anything other than a power button? How did you hook up the power and reset buttons to the power block?

@paulkosm I think this is just the nature of the powerblock. The problem would be that the latching switch would still be latched in the on position (which is why you get a restart) and there's no way to automatically unlatch it. It might be more annoying to have to unlatch then latch again to turn the system on after a soft shutdown. Personally I just use the powerblock switch to shutdown every time and never use the menu shutdown option now.

One idea to try out could be to try and disconnect the fan. If the behaviour is different and, in the best case, everything is working properly, then the fan might draw too much current.

Ok. Thanks for the answer ! Wasn't sure if you needed that driver for any on/off switch hooked up to the pins.

The same official micro-USB adapter that works in the jack, just out through an extender so that it can be powered in a custom case. The placement of the jack isn't ideal, I'm just moving it out.