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    Please do not post a support request without first reading and following the advice in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

    Powerboost 1000c breakout LEDs

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    gameboygameboy zerogbzpi zeroadafruit
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    • monstermadeofmanM
      monstermadeofman
      last edited by

      So I'm currently in the middle of Gameboy Zero project and I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice.

      I want to breakout the LED indicators on the Adafruit Powerboost 1000c

      I've found a rough guide on the Adafruit forum but I'm struggling to make heads or tails of it.

      https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=75831

      Can anyone make sense of this and give me some steps or a wiring diagram.

      Thanks in advance guys

      Not all those who wander are lost

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • obsidianspiderO
        obsidianspider
        last edited by

        After reading through that it looks like you'd have to tag off the existing status LEDs. (Marked with red dots)

        alt text

        I haven't gotten that far with my build yet, but I'd like a red, orange, green LED status light on mine too, so if/when I get that far I'll be sure to let you know if/how I figure it out.

        📷 @obsidianspider

        monstermadeofmanM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • monstermadeofmanM
          monstermadeofman @obsidianspider
          last edited by

          @obsidianspider

          Thanks Man :)

          Not all those who wander are lost

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • monstermadeofmanM
            monstermadeofman
            last edited by

            So I tried to break them out....

            Succeded with the Power LED.

            I will say desoldering them is a huge problem. They are proper on there.

            I'm actually gonna be using fiber optic cable.

            On a side note. Through the course of the weekend I broke/watch go up in flames

            • 1 Powerbbost 100c (Whilst trying to get LEDs to work fried something)

            • 1 Pi Zero (broke Contact pads)

            • 1 soldering Iron (Randomly went bang whilst soldering USB slots)

            Not all those who wander are lost

            obsidianspiderO 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • obsidianspiderO
              obsidianspider @monstermadeofman
              last edited by

              @monstermadeofman That sucks. I'm not sure where you're located, but here in the US that's at least $25 worth of parts, plus the soldering iron.

              Since your soldering iron died, probably time to look into a temperature-regulated soldering station. When I first started getting into electronics I only had a butane soldering pen and a huge soldering gun that was for heavy duty stuff. I decided after the multiple mess-ups with the gas-powered soldering pen to get a Weller WESD51 and it's served me well. I still don't know what I'm doing, but I'm not overcooking parts.

              📷 @obsidianspider

              monstermadeofmanM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • monstermadeofmanM
                monstermadeofman @obsidianspider
                last edited by

                @obsidianspider

                I'm from the UK. And It's cost me somewhere in the region of about £40-£50 due to the scarcisty of Powerboost 1000 over here.

                My soldering Iron was temp regulated. It served me well.

                Went out and got a new soldering iron and ordered a new powerboost and Pi Zero.

                I'm still confident I can break them out.

                Found a nice little walkthrough

                end a piece of #20 to #24 copper wire so it just fits around the LED or resistor, then heat that with the tip of your soldering iron.

                • The wire will carry heat to the pads on both ends of the component, melting both at the same time. Then you can slide the component off the pads. It's a lot faster and easier than trying to lever a component off with only one side free.

                • Clean any excess solder off the pads with solder wick, then re-tin before adding the jumper.

                • 30 gauge wire works well for the jumpers. It can carry more than enough current for an LED, and is flexible enough that you won't risk pulling the pad off the PCB.

                • Bend about 1mm of the wire back on itself and press the wires together with pliers/tweezers to make a tight U, dip it in flux, then melt a bead of solder into the U. The capillary action between the wires will hold more solder than a straight run of wire, and the paired wires will act like a small pad. Place the tinned U on the pad, heat it with your iron, and you should get a good joint.

                I've got the broken powerboost I'm gonna practice on.

                Let's hope

                Not all those who wander are lost

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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