so its official, i'm quiting this build. looking forward to future projects and hoping a pi zero 2 will come along. i just wanted to take the time to thank everyone here for the effort to make all these projects possible for us, you are doing a great job and i am very greatfull for that. already have a pi4 at at hand with 4gb and waiting for dreamcast emulation as i see the promising flycast core inplimentation,thats my all time favorite console looking to be very well emulated. so big thanks to all and let me know if i can donate without paypal, cause i really don't like paypal.

@Sakitoshi Awesome! I modified /opt/retropie/configs/all/autostart.sh so it calls emulationstation --screensize 640 576 --screenoffset 37 79 when booting and when reseting ES from the menu, and it's working flawlessly! (I may tweak the offsets based on the final installation of the display, but it looks awesome already) Thank you so much both of you!

@goobatroopa Thank you for the kind words, very much appreciated!

@ectoone said in Freeplay Theme: @rxbrad I think the latest stable version is available here: https://github.com/jrassa/EmulationStation/releases/tag/continuous Thanks... I was able to grab ES v2.7.4 (Feb 2017 build) with that link, which is better than the v2.2.0 that I was only able to find on my own. Interesting how the horizontal-wheel carousel apparently works on that build (was added late-January I think), but not the official build that came with Retropie v4.4 in April.

HI, You can find my web site here :), all is done :) After the Home page, You can change the langage. Thanks

failed to find mixer elements keeps popping up on terminal... Also, can I use only my amplifier or do I have to copy everything exactly? EDIT: I somehow got the audio to work via gpio, albeit with crackling... now to fix this

I don't want to start any arguments so if a mod can delete this whole topic please?

Here you go! http://imgur.com/a/qO5BD

@spruce_m00se you would be amazed how many forums have spruce moose taken That is surprising. Out of 28 years of material from that show, it's funny which moments end up being the most memorable. When you started posting here, the name definitely got a smile out of me.

Today I am very happy because I solved this issue. I just had to remove the case, plug in a new image, plug in the HDMI,and get the ip so I can configure it on my computer. Thank you all so much for helping me out.

@tsoliman Added that to the issues list. I'll take a look at it. In the meantime, here's an almost-finished project along the same vein that I'm working on that you may be interesting in previewing. I have all of the same systems themed on it as you'll fin d on the Carbon theme. It's not on RetroPie-Setup yet, but the wiki give instructions for installing which should still be compatible once it does end up in RetroPie-Setup. https://github.com/rxbrad/es-theme-freeplay

Looking good!

@obsidianspider I'm from the UK. And It's cost me somewhere in the region of about £40-£50 due to the scarcisty of Powerboost 1000 over here. My soldering Iron was temp regulated. It served me well. Went out and got a new soldering iron and ordered a new powerboost and Pi Zero. I'm still confident I can break them out. Found a nice little walkthrough end a piece of #20 to #24 copper wire so it just fits around the LED or resistor, then heat that with the tip of your soldering iron. The wire will carry heat to the pads on both ends of the component, melting both at the same time. Then you can slide the component off the pads. It's a lot faster and easier than trying to lever a component off with only one side free. Clean any excess solder off the pads with solder wick, then re-tin before adding the jumper. 30 gauge wire works well for the jumpers. It can carry more than enough current for an LED, and is flexible enough that you won't risk pulling the pad off the PCB. Bend about 1mm of the wire back on itself and press the wires together with pliers/tweezers to make a tight U, dip it in flux, then melt a bead of solder into the U. The capillary action between the wires will hold more solder than a straight run of wire, and the paired wires will act like a small pad. Place the tinned U on the pad, heat it with your iron, and you should get a good joint. I've got the broken powerboost I'm gonna practice on. Let's hope