@obsidianspider
I'm from the UK. And It's cost me somewhere in the region of about £40-£50 due to the scarcisty of Powerboost 1000 over here.
My soldering Iron was temp regulated. It served me well.
Went out and got a new soldering iron and ordered a new powerboost and Pi Zero.
I'm still confident I can break them out.
Found a nice little walkthrough
end a piece of #20 to #24 copper wire so it just fits around the LED or resistor, then heat that with the tip of your soldering iron.
The wire will carry heat to the pads on both ends of the component, melting both at the same time. Then you can slide the component off the pads. It's a lot faster and easier than trying to lever a component off with only one side free.
Clean any excess solder off the pads with solder wick, then re-tin before adding the jumper.
30 gauge wire works well for the jumpers. It can carry more than enough current for an LED, and is flexible enough that you won't risk pulling the pad off the PCB.
Bend about 1mm of the wire back on itself and press the wires together with pliers/tweezers to make a tight U, dip it in flux, then melt a bead of solder into the U. The capillary action between the wires will hold more solder than a straight run of wire, and the paired wires will act like a small pad. Place the tinned U on the pad, heat it with your iron, and you should get a good joint.
I've got the broken powerboost I'm gonna practice on.
Let's hope
