For me it is the first time to hear of such a behaviour. Does the PowerBlock work fine afterwards or has it become just unreliable at all?
Maybe there was some sort of voltage transient that caused the malfunction of the PowerBlock IC.

@jonnykesh you are right. I am an idiot. And i set that every time i set up a pi so i should have remembered that.

@Lurker thank you for this detail, also super helpful for me. I am considering doing the same thing but using this switch (Pilot Automotive PL-SW26 Performance Toggle Switch with Red Safety Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTMUUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6uZQDbMXHJDGD). I don’t have any electrical experience - can I ask you what the difference would be here given this only has 2 connectors vs the 3 in the other switch?

@Drakaen391 thanks will check it out.

It is important to note that the switch and the optional status LED need to be connected to the 2x2 pins header in any case. The signal break outs S1 and S2 are not meant for the switch and the LED, but rather for the communication between the PowerBlock and The RPi. Here is a summary for the connection between the break outs and the RPi:

S1: pin 12 S2: pin 11 5V OUT +: pin 2 or pin 4 5V OUT -: pin 6 or pin 9

so ,i was kinda overloaded with stuff didn't realy proceed with what i posted, i am back to making the arcade now ,still i am fazed with this problem ,since i am gonna be making a shutdown/boot button for the pi,if i connect in parrallel to this connection the button that you push to manually open the TV is it gonna work ?.My main concern is frying the pi due to the tv being a higher power device ,should i use a relay for that kind of work?.

I just ordered another one. But I put in my original Raspberry Pi card and it works fine. Shuts down and starts back up fine.

@petrockblog You might want to add a bit more explanatory wording to the Control Block installation page. It might be intuitive to most, but I missed it, too, initially.