@quicksilver Thanks! The Flirc case will do the job then. I'm putting the case in my PS1 shell (hope it fits) so whether it's a Flirc or a Kintaro doesn't really matter. ;-)

@caver01 thanks man.... You just saved me a lot of time

It’s worked excellent for me. A little loud but other than that it’s really cooled my pi off.

@akafox okay thank you! I'll dig in when i get home. :)

@ortsac said in PS3 Cooling Fans: @ecks What other devices and controllers do you use the USB? What is power rating on the fan that you will be using? Does it have any labels on it? There is no label saying anything about the power rating on it which you can see in the images and like i said USB wise for cords i use it for my game controller and phone to recharge the only thing i have left if an old micro usb charger but it is not even 5 volts it is more like 2 or 3 volts instead (was made for a super old flip phone)

@russkil I think @dankcushions said it best. It just depends on the build, case, and how you run your setup. I run a Pi3 without overclocking, and for the arcade games that I wanted to play, I was easily able to push it over the threshold and saw performance suffer as a result. I cut a square off of an old Pentium sink and polished it smooth, then stuck it onto my CPU using Arctic Silver. No fan. I have never seen a temperature related issue since, so I will do this on all of my Pi3 systems from now on. I echo the comments above regarding self-adhesive applications. They can work if the stuff is thermally conductive, but how can you know what you are getting? Having a tiny dab of actual thermal adhesive is a good fallback. Regarding paste vs. adhesive, both will work. The adhesive hardens while the paste remains liquid, but the paste is thick stuff and it dries a bit with hot/cool cycles and it is very sticky (don't over apply). Mine sink has not moved a bit since I added it (and the Pi is attached upside-down inside my cabinet), but I could grab the sink it and twist it right off if I wanted to--so thermal adhesive is probably the safer route.

necrobumping my own post because I found a workaround. I use runcommand-onstart.sh script (docs : https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Runcommand , my script : https://pastebin.com/XunR2bBY) combined with some delay (hard programmed in my fanControl program) to relaunch fanControl after Mupen has done its shenanigans and thus reclaim the GPIO.

@RetroFreak89 said in Do i need Cooling?: do you know by any chance? I'm afraid I don't have much experience with Bluetooth issues. To get the best help you should open up a new thread in the 'Help and Support' section.

I've created stressberry to create standardized temperature signatures; hopefully we'll be able to properly compare all solutions with it. I'm hoping to be able to add a few more graphs in the coming weeks. Perhaps other people would like to run stressberry as well.

Ya, it's nice and keeps things cool... but again, if have a cable (game controller) with a metal end on it, one small touch at the wrong time and ZAP! there goes your board, possible MicroSD Card as well. Not so much a worry on mine, but I know for sure that the 2 kids will have stuff getting into it, and one of them has a cat. Enough said on that one. :)