@mitu Thank you, that's exactly what I was looking for!

@gunnarkarlsson
Welcome, i'am happy to help :-)

@nunna78 hi there. I must complète this Thread:

XpadNeo: Xbox-One Controller does not fully works on SteamLink. X and R1 Button are not recognized

Xboxdrv: Xbox-One Controller work perfectly on SteamLink.

So if you want to play SteamLink i'll recommand Xboxdrv instead of Xpadneo

I found another option for getting performance information logged - RetroArch performance counters: https://docs.libretro.com/guides/generating-retroarch-logs/

I haven't seen anything useful logged yet though :/

@mitu I tried the runahead out and it was great! Thanks all!

@BobRossWins https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroArch/comments/c9csnr/game_latency_frames_wiki_runahead_wiki/

Hello, I tried this with my Xin-Mo arcade setup and while it sorta made things more responsive in games, it ended up making some wacky things happen in EmulationStation. When scrolling through systems left-right it would skip over a system sometimes even though I pressed it once. Same goes for up-down in the game lists, it would skip games over as if it were double tapping.

@cacotigon
Top time is something like that, Kirby Samurai is a minigame, randomly the screen flashes: !!! and you press a button as fast as you can to respond. So long as you aren't cheating, and you give yourself enough chances, and you're not impaired, if you can't beat your top score; then you have a good personal idea of the input lag.
So you get (input lag)+(legitimate human factor)=(top time)
My best time on a real nintendo was 8,11 average, 13-8,11 = "5,2" the input lag and time measurements, might be per frame, I dont know, 5,2x .06 = 300,120ms { + runahead 1 frame } = 360,180ms. You can divide that result by two because we are experiencing an input and an output lag: ~90ms does that sound about right?

Run-Ahead didn't work as well in kirby-superstar, more framedrops, I forgot what I did to get it up to speed, maybe it was a The second run-ahead, but it kind of seemed contradictory, so I thought it was a fluke but I did get a higher score.

Run-ahead on SMW I thought it felt a lot better when I got it up to speed, v-sync needed to be on or else scrolling looked terrible in one trial. I overclocked and I adjusted the audio latency, and used different cores but I wasn't compiling my test results so I don't know.

I'm back at it again though, now that I've stabilized my overclock. I may just browse the web forums and raspberry pi stuff for a while.

EDIT: Oh yeah! you can read my edit history on my previous posts, I tried to compile as much of it as I could but it is pretty much just as disorganized and I was embarrassed as I can just go on and on as I don't know what I'm doing.
EDIT2: Actually I can't figure out how to read edit history.

@mitu said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?:

@StuMcBill said in Connecting 2 x 8BitDo Controllers - only one hotkey?:

however, only 1 controller seems to exit the game, by pressing Start+Select - is this by design?

Yes, only the 1st player has access to Hotkeys.

Also, there seems to be a small bit of latency with both controllers (which I know is a fact of bluetooth connections), is there anyway I can minimise this?

Disable the Wifi connection or get a BT USB adapter - what RPI Model are you using ?

Its a Pi3 B+, I'll try and disable WiFi and see what happens.

@Brunnis Hello Brunnis, I am glad you had a quick look at my results. I have high respect for your work.

I know something must went wrong on my test, as the outcome wasn't consistent and I didn't know the actual delay for input and output devices or even used wrong emulator settings. I expected some sort of delay and just wanted to know how my personal setup works. Currently, there the only way to play on CRT for me is to use that converter.

Quick test of GAMEPAD and CONVERTER

I did a quick test on my USB Fightstick on my PC without RetroPie.

Test 1 does not involve any display. It was just to see how long the LED light on the stick needs to turn on after pressing a button. This is hard to tell, as I can't say for 100% sure when the actual press of button sends a signal. At least the converter, monitor and usb aren't involved here.
Result: 1 or 2 frames of 240 fps, which translates to 0.25 to 0.5 frames at 60 fps (right?).

For Test 2 I used my daily Linux PC with 144 Hz HDMI monitor (without converter). jstest-gtk on Ubuntu was used to visualize a press button on display.
Result: I think 4 frames of 240 fps footage in addition after the LED is lighting up. That translates to 1 frame delay at 60 fps.

At Test 3 I connected same PC to the CRT PC monitor via HDMI to VGA converter. Same jstest-gtk was used as previous test.
Result: 6 or 7 frames at 240 fps footage after the LED is lighting up. Which translates to about 1.5 or 1.75 frames at 60 fps.

Conclusion:

The arcade stick seems to add 1 or 1.5 frame delay on its own, which would mean 16.7ms or 25ms. If Test 2 and 3 are compared, the converter seems to add 1.5 or 1.75 frame delay on its own, which would mean 25ms or 29.2 ms. So, both together are in total adding up approx. about 3 frames or 50 ms latency.

Do you think the autofire/turbo-2 function of arcade stick could send too many key press events, so the emulator or driver gets too busy? Could this have an effect? What do you think about all of this? Does these sound reasonable?

And, should I also just copy the posting to Reddit?

@lilbud yes they are always advertised as 720p "HD ready", the panel size is "implementation detail" ... your experience sounds great.. not every 1366 x 768 panel is made equal.. nor the controller boards.. so I guess you got a good value for your money :)

@mitu any possible configurations in Latency menu. ANY. Trying 20 or 30 times with various config. I cant say which, cus i use all possible.
Try to reinstall RetroArch on PC. Work. And Latency options working good.
Upd. With SNES working like on RaspberryPie - speed and sound issues

Thank you for anwseri g steptoe!
I'm Sorry for that, but what's 5G?

I have a PS3 and of course controllers for it, but I like to use the "originals" shape of Controller for each emulator. For example the USB version of NES Controller for NES games and the USB version of N64 controller for N64 games.
There are Bluetooth versions of them too, but these are way more expensive than the USB ones. So my decision is to use the USB ones.