Yes. I have receiver. That was my problem. When I connected the receiver, I would get the lightning bolt, but now I am using a 10,000maH powerbank with 2.4A output and I have not had an issue so far. Thanks for your help.

what are you using for the display?

@eladiopinto Thanks.

Looks very cool. Congrats on hitting your funding goal. You might get even more backers if you add stretch goals.

@caver01 That's true, I am also investigating udev and xrender as I was told by a friend that a rule could probably be defined to handle that behavior. Indeed, since the portable screen will be connected internally (inside the box) to the raspberry pi, we can know for certain which HDMI port is associated to the screen and therefore differentiate it from the other one which would be assumed to be an external screen.

EDIT: Actually, I realize now that contrary to USB ports, HDMI splitters only duplicate the input display to two outputs in an identical way, so I am no longer sure udev understands it is communicating with two different displays.

@caver01 @rbaker I am also investigating using a USB Power Bank as a UPS (which I read from over at http://raspi-ups.appspot.com/en/index.jsp). Some models have smart charge features and are able to serve while charging and feature two USB ports (which is useful to provide power to both the Raspberry Pi and the portable screen).

Controlling the power drop seems feasible using a voltage diviser and an analog digital converter bound to the Raspberry Pi GPIO (one reference among others: http://raspi.tv/2013/controlled-shutdown-duration-test-of-pi-model-a-with-2-cell-lipo).

A quick Amazon search provides results that I believe could do the trick (like http://amzn.eu/fAd5fRV which:

is pretty cheap (~20 bucks), has a 16.75A capactity, provides 5V outputs, provides 3A max on each of its 2 ports,

I am guessing this could be used as a UPS.

Just as a side note I have seen several interesting projects providing UPS boards for the Raspberry Pi. But they seem focused on powering it through the GPIO (as far as I understand) and therefore do not seem very appropriate to me if I want to power a portable screen as well.

Another side note to say that I don't have any stakes at Amazon (and my links aren't sponsored), it just seems convenient to provide examples :)

EDIT: changed the example provided for a more suitable USB Power Bank

@jonnykesh
That sad...
But thanks!

I could just use a controller for that with a slideing screen I guess...

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, once I switched to the higher powerboost everything started working perfectly. I really enjoyed making it and wish I had more time to play it!

@McScruffUK when I made my handheld I had to set the pi to the same resolution as my screen, which is 320x240. I had to change config files to set this resolution, and if I connect it to a screen via HDMI I get the same resolution on the TV. Someone else may know different.

@ZioDarkmage Yikes that is painful!

It’s been quite a few weeks from my last update. Life and work got on the way of this project but I’m back on it, I also received some of the parts that I was waiting so I could start doing the power section of this project.

I have been thinking from a few month ago about a way to see the battery status. The cool thing is that the 3ds replacement case came with the light diffuser which fit at the front of the case.

So with this in mind I did a bit of research on the powerboost 1000C board to find a way to do a break board with some LED sitting under the diffuser.

What I’m thinking to use from the board is the Red LED for lower battery, the yellow LED for the charging state and the green LED for the charged state.

On the powerboost board the green and yellow LED share the V line and therefore can but wired to a RGB LED or a Bi-Color LED which has a common anode. I also test the voltage from the onboard LED and they run on 1.94v.

After doing some research I stumble onto this Bi-colour LED which match the colour I wanted to display, green and orange and also run between 1.9v to 3.8v which sounded perfect.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Common-anode-Orange-Green-3mm-bi-color-leds-Round-indicator-light-diode-2-0-2/1712202772.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.I96eme

So fast forward, I finally got those LEDs and it was play time during the weekend
alt text

I wired the cable directly on top of the on board LED solder pad with the help of some flux
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And with the help of a breadboard I could test the LED
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And lastly I solder the wired for the red LED which I will test in the future
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On the case side I'm doing the few different ports, I will be posting this in my next update.

@Alwaysbored612 said in Newbie Needs Suggestions:

Are most people using external speakers for similar builds? If so, how do you route the power through the Pi? USB maybe? Do you have a suggested product that works?

Don't route the power through the pi. Get a power brick with 5 usb ports on it rated at 3A then from that you can power usb speakers, led lighting and anything else. Use a separate power pack to power the Pi. Se my speakers here. Just a cheap set from Amazon, ripped apart. Really good quality.

@obsidianspider

About 80mm width, 100mm height. Depth I'm still 100% as I'm waiting for a PCB board to fit before I can decide definate. Anything more than 15mm is probably too much. But Height is negotiable is width and height are reduced, mainly because of the battery compartment area being empty after cutting away to make certain areas more accessible

tried setting up Xbox one controller and works fine thanks for the help mate!