@Comic-Sans Hey - bit late to the party here, but incase you (or anyone reading in future) swings by...
I'm making an arcade machine of my own (albeit mini). After a first proto (enclosure for a 5" display and USB ports for a few retro USB controllers) I decided to make a slightly larger one (7in screen this time) - and I also wanted arcade buttons.

I got the EG Plays ones (specifically these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075DFNK24 ) and I've been really pleased with them. The stick is sturdy and feels really nice. The buttons are perhaps a little cheaper looking than some, but they're really responsive too and look really nice when lit up.

That's not to say the Sanwa ones (which I don't know much about) wouldn't be noticeable better, but at the end of the day I see many of these things as things that could be upgraded. The dimensions etc appear to be somewhat standard across both brands (and others). The type of person who builds an arcade cab is likely a hobbyist - so I'm sure the EG buttons won't go to waste if you replace them in future with better ones :)

There's a single encoder board which everything plugs into (with extra connections for other bits, etc) and this goes straight out via USB. I had these all plugged in and tested in my computer within 5 minutes of opening the box.

Good luck!

@lostless the number of pulses are just to tell the microcontroller (or computer) which coins you are putting in. So you can set a quarter for 5 and a dime for 4 and so on. So when you set up an electrical piggy bank. The computer can tell which coins you put in. I'm guessing I would have to put some type of resisiter for this to work which is beyond my present capabilities. I went ahead and bought one off of X Arcades site. They have one with the microcontroller and stuff hooked up so all you have to do is Jerry rig it to your buttons or just connect it straight to the USB encoder. So hope it all works when it comes in lol

@lolonois Yet another option, thank you. That's why I love this forum, everyone is just so helpful.

@DanTarl

Hi DanTarl - I created a forum account just to thank you for this tip.

I was frustrated by my zero delay encoder going in to disconnect/reconnect loop (led flashing) while using MAME on Ubuntu v22. Adding this to the Grub Linux boot parameters fixed the problem immediately.

The line now looks like this:

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash usbhid.quirks=0x0079:0x0006:0x00000400"

Detailed instructions for editing Ubuntu boot parameters here.

Thanks again - solving this seemed like such a longshot!

Paul

The RetroPie Docs have a very detailed chapter about Spinners, Trackballs, Lightguns, Mice .

For the fine tuning of the spinners' sensitivity for each game, I used MAME`s own so-called tab menu that comes up when you press the tab key. See this video about how to do that:

Two more useful references about spinners:

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Spinners_and_Dials http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/Spinner_Turn_Count

@mitu OK I figured it out. Fist i got into Stargate on RetroPie and re-assigned the game controls to different keys using Tab. "Input, this game". F is fire, T is thrust, H is hyperspace, 1 is player1 start, 2 is player2 start, S is smart bomb, I is inviso, R is reverse, arrow up is UP, arrow down is DOWN. This makes my head easier to remember. Then I went back into EmStation, disconnected the USB gamepad and reconfigured the keyboard as main controller. I set key 1 as Start and key 2 as Select. I also set key T as B and key F as A. Down at the bottom of the configure menu I left hotkey blank and when asked, I selected Yes. I also went into RetroArch/Settings/Input/Hotkey Binds and made sure Press Quit Twice is set to OFF. So to exit the game now I press 1 and 2 together and it brings me back to EmStation. And when the Pi is in the cabinet (hooked up to iPac2), I can work through the EmStation using the Stargate control buttons and never need a keyboard or gamepad again.

A connection that becomes loose? "The issue comes back."

@jerrymrivera Please don't bump old forum posts.
Create a new topic and explain your problem, adding the relevant info about your setup, as explained in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first.

Alas, I can't help you with that. But if you can't find information about ZDE internals, you could also try to find information about USB HID device specifications in general, as the encoders "just" convert the raw signals to those of a joystick-like USB HID.

Sorry for the delay in replying to this. Just wanted to update this post.

Ok so it looks like the joystick inputs, Start, Select and Buttons A and B cannot be skipped but once I get past those inputs I can skip away and save the config (by getting to the end).

So I just took some spare buttons I have and plugged them into the encoder and then once they were mapped I removed the psychical buttons I don't want leaving only one in my case.

Thanks to Mitu for the help