Configuration editor will not help here. You can use jstest to check that each encoder outputs an identical input code for the same button.
Running jstest /dev/input/jsX will show you the inputs on the encoder and you can press all the inputs to see how they're recorded. Replace X with 0 to 3 and you should be able to test each of the 4 encoders. Interrupt the test by pressing Ctrl + C.

Post some details about your setup, as asked in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first.

Get a verbose log from running an emulator and then post the resulting log file on pastebin.com. Also post your joystick configuration profile here in the topic, surrounded by code tags (``` before and after the contents)

@mitu thank you, excellent advice

After running the above I noticed that indeed those axis don't work. So I tried changing the position of the connector (this one towards the joystick knob didn't have wiring guidance) and tadaa, they work now. Also this fixed somehow the skipping part, now with a long press of a button I can properly skip it.

Now I'm just trying to figure what is the minimum amount of buttons that I need (directions, start, select, hotkey and ...?) , I don't want the arcade machine to have too much buttons lying around plus I don't have the space, I want to build a double control one this time. Just hope there won't be no more trouble ahead.

Anyway, to get back to the subject, for other folks, if the joystick misbehaves, don't forget to check the wiring also. In my case this inverse polarity allowed it to work partially.

@jbsapp
Great information.

I was curious and managed to locate a little detail on the fuzz and other arguments.

https://stackoverflow.com/questions/16110515/explanation-of-fuzz-and-flat-in-input-absinfo-struct-in-input-h

You can find that

fuzz: specifies fuzz value that is used to filter noise from the event stream.

Which means that the input system in linux will drop events generated by the device driver if the difference from the last value is lower than the fuzz. This is done in the input layer.

Another user posted:

So it would seem that any changes less than fuzz are should be filtered out / ignored.

Also,
https://python-evdev.readthedocs.io/en/latest/apidoc.html
The Device section talks about the fuzz argument.

@nemo93 Ok thanks anyway.
I opened a topic on GitHub.
https://github.com/BlitterStudio/amiberry/issues/1022#issue-1405758532

@mitu Cool, thanks! That puts my mind at ease.

Hi @Ruidog

I got some troubles too with two DragonRise controllers and a PI3b+.
Look at this thread, it helped me:

https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/9259/so-close-dragonrise-arcade-sticks-and-button-sets-joystick-on-a-player-reverses/6

@DanTarl

Hi DanTarl - I created a forum account just to thank you for this tip.

I was frustrated by my zero delay encoder going in to disconnect/reconnect loop (led flashing) while using MAME on Ubuntu v22. Adding this to the Grub Linux boot parameters fixed the problem immediately.

The line now looks like this:

GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="quiet splash usbhid.quirks=0x0079:0x0006:0x00000400"

Detailed instructions for editing Ubuntu boot parameters here.

Thanks again - solving this seemed like such a longshot!

Paul

Does this happen even outside of EmulationStation ? If you exit EmulationStation and move your joystick left, does it restart the Pi ?

@mitu That did it! Thank you!!!

update: I think I found the main problem with my config. I installed the joystick selection tool
https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/1167/here-is-a-way-to-select-joystick-for-players-1-4-global-or-emu-specific
to check what's been set up for the players.

alt text
Yeah, okay... ;-) No idea what caused that configuration...
I moved The DragonRise Controller to P1 now and set P2-P4 to ** UNSET **

Now, in lr-genesis-plus-gx all keys are working as expected, Retroarch GUI is showing up also! :-)

@George-Spiggott said in Blood Money AmiBerry Control issues:

I have a PS3 pad in port 1 set to Joystick. I have no custom inputs defined. You can save settings in the configurations tab in Amiberry. You may need to save settings for for several of your games.

Hope this helps.

Hey George, thanks for that tip. Now got Blood Money working with my Dragonrise controller. So massive thumbs up for your help.

I know this topic is really old but i had the same problem myself and solved it. I noticed that the button mappings in RetroArch interfered with MAME 2010's mappings. One button could mean one thing in RetroArch but another in MAME so RetroArch would say to MAME something like - Hey! We also want to press this button!

What i did was that i blanked out the button mappings in RetroArch so they're seen as ---. After this my MAME mappings worked straight away. Then saved it as a content (game) specific configuration.

@mitu @grant2258 thank you both for all your help. After I couldn’t get any of my controllers working, I imaged a new SD card and started fresh. I can successfully use the Dragonrise controllers. I’m thinking the problem may be permissions related as for some reason the default account (pi?) May have lost permissions to write config files. I’ll look into it.

Thanks again,

PacRat

@TimeDoctor said in Control works inside ES, but not in-game:

None of this would be a problem if the ES input configuration were passed to retroarch properly.

My suspicion is that you've reset the RetroArch configuration and it doesn't look for the gamepad auto-configuration file in the folder where Emulationstation saves it (/opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch-joypads).

@insx said in Is there a simple way to make DragonRise controllers work with Daphne??:

@DirtBagXon

I'm pretty sure I did exactly this, I tried it several times to make sure I hadn't typed something wrong.

git clone https://github.com/grant2258/daphne-emu.git tmp/build/daphne

Let me append to my previous answer.

...or the repo doesn't exist :)

Hi, firstly, the thing of DragonRise Controller is weird, I have agamepad and is also recognizable as a DragonRise, but I guess it happens when the controller s not officil. Second, arcade joysticks (The ones you bought) are not analog, they are 8-way sticks. Anyway, there are a few N64 games that work with the pad, like Kirby one.