@Tim-s-up Usually it's the TAB key.

Thanks to all. I just bought a Pi 4. Mainly because it is more future proof. I will play around with Lakka for some time, waiting for Retropie to be fully compatible.

@Clyde I'm not sure yet, I only took a moment to map because I'm waiting for an image to come out. Then I'll take the time to map properly.

@UDb23 thank you!

@wstanek said in I-PAC2, connecting 1 Button to 2 Switches?:

I wouldn't recommend doing that though. Its better to have things straight forward, especially if you have guests.

That was one of the reasons why I was thinking about using dedicated buttons for "Hotkeys", as IMHO it is far easier to explain "Exit here this red Button, Save State that one with the record icon and Load this green one here...."

But then, maybe I will get myself into to much things to consider - as this is my 1st Build of a Control Panel I think you two are right to stick with the Basics (Retropies own Hotkeys + I-Pacs Shift - so far I thought to use the Shift ability of the I-Pac to get some of the most crucial Keys for Amiga/CBM64/etc. Games).
And thanks to you both as I now know that it is possible and that with a later (re)build and gained experience I could think again about single button double-links :cheers:

Glad to hear that :-)

@mitu my select button in retropie dont work, with recalbox working fine, I believe that for the recalbox to have wiringpi already installed

i need a image of retropie with wiringpi activated...

What's the switch' part number? Where did you get it from? Maybe a little research can show how the switch LED is connected internally.
When you mentioned LED, is that the LED connected to the Contolblock or the LED on the switch?

I got it working and can continue my build project !!

It worked when I put all the white wires on top on the COM side, and the blue ones on the NO side of the switch.

When I my project is finished I'll show ya'll what i've made on the project builds pages of this forum

Thanks again for being such a great help!

Glad to hear that you found the problem.

@psychosious You can also try to connect to 3.3 rail directly!
This might work for a status LED (on/off/error). If you want to use it for illumination effect the 3.3V can be a bit low.
Usually the forward current for blue LEDs are 2.9-3.1V
Keep in mind, the 3.3V rail delievers only 100mA!
That's enough for a few microcontrollers and a bunch of LEDs - not enough for your XMas tree!

@erodad Did you get this going? This is my exact question.

@edmaul69 I know normally you're supposed to just wire the positive and negative ends to the appropriate pins on the control block. They're specifically marked. But im not sure what to do at this point. Thanks for your reply