In case you have not found it yet by yourself: [1] discusses this.

TL;DR you will need some extra circuits (monostable circuit or timer IC NE556) to do this.

And in addition to the StackExchange post you will also need a circuit for the falling edge of the latched switch.

Then you can use the "momentary switch approach" [2]

[1] https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/589099/converting-latching-switch-to-momentary-output
[2] https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/77905/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-dtoverlay-gpio-shutdown#77918

@Lolonois said in Emulationstation Shutdown Script Issue:

In ES there is a menuitem Save Metadata, set it to Always. Then you should be able to hard kill ES via shutdown/reboot without losing changes to gamelists / favorites / collections.

BAM!!!

That worked!

Thank you! Not sure how I never noticed that option before! Almost seems like “always” should be the default.

@mitu I have a raspberry pi model 3b+ and I use this to power my raspberry pi (12v to 5v converter inside unit, 2.5A) while using the joysticks for my arcade machine: https://www.jaycar.com.au/raspberry-pi-retro-arcade-game-console-with-hdmi-port/p/XC9062

Retropie version 4.8

@HeineBorel Yes, the naming of the overlay is unfortunate. Note that your link is for the PIZero2W patch, for the CM4 is a separate repository, but it has the same issue (similar overlay name with an existing one, distributed by the raspberrypi-kernel package).

There are 2 workarounds for this

either rename the overlays/dpi24.dtbo file to something else and update the config.txt with the new name when updating RetroPie, skip the kernel and system packages and update only RetroPie's packages.

@thereincarnator Hi! Sorry for this delayed reply. I just sent you a replay to your email!
We will make it work!

@hellothere

I boot my Pi4 from USB but I use a conventional 2,5" harddrive.
This is much more reliable and faster than using SD-cards.
My experience is that normal harddrives live much longer that SD-cards and SSD-drives.
SSD drives are based on the same technology than SD-cards, go figure.

I haven't used an SSD on my Pi4, but my overall experience with SD-cards and SSD drives is not that good.
Ok, SSD drives are fast and use less energy, but just like SD-cards their lifetime is limited versus that of physical hard-drives.
If you do a lot of writing then SD-cards and SSD-drives will not live that long. ( for example, compiling programs with a swap on will definitely age the SSD faster )
Three of my 128GB SD-cards didn't live longer that 7 months or so, go figure !

The backdraw of physical harddrives are mostly the energy consumption.
My PI4 can supply my 2,5" over the USB without an external powersupply but, besides the mouse and keyboard, you can't connect other hungry devices anymore.
Using harddrives with external power should fix this problem though.

And remember, you have to have a good PI4 power supply or you get trouble also !
The official PI4 power supply is 5.1 V and 3.0 A !!!

@maschine Replying to an old message here, mainly in case others are looking for the same.

If you want to fully disable the power button, then check the manual for this case. It describes a hardware jumper that can be set to fully disable the power button. Power will always flow to the RPi4B board.

By setting the jumper to pin 2-3, the device will be in always on mode.

25e9ca3f-0635-467c-a56f-d039db2e045c-image.png

@mitu yes

@yogsodoth interesting that it didn't work, I've never had a problem with Win32DiskImager yet. But it's good to know if I run across a similar issue I can always try out etcher.

@mitu your frequency of helping people never ceases to amaze me. Thank you for all the time you put into helping all of us.

@RyanT besides the fact that we dont support 3rd-Party-Images as mitu mentioned: imo your advise is a bit of asking a crystal ball.
If his Pi only shows the bolt with this new "prebuiltimagefromdahood" - and not with others...i guess it contains overclocking parameters by default.
Without knowing the exact configuration it is impossible to recommend a specific PSU. Maybe the Image was meant for a watercooled Raspberry Pi with a 600Watt PSU - who knows?

@thestarglider said in SNES controller ghosting on Retropie/Kodi etc... An interesting find...:

It would be interesting to know if anyone else had tried an alternative power source to their Pi when they've had issues with ghosting, because in all the threads I have read, I don't remember anyone else bringing it up.

i kinda did :) https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/8187/gamepads-making-involuntary-movements-in-emulation-station

the issue is power interference so it figures that changes to power supply or connection can influence it. however it won't fix it for everyone.

@emclinux thankyou I will give that a try tonight

Final Update:

Turns out it was my charger all along . Here is what I ended up doing.

From my Pi3 I run a DC Barrel Jack to Micro-USB B Male Connector (http://a.co/d/4yVdU3c) . Then from the barrel jack I have a normal power supply (http://a.co/d/7j0vMr3) . No voltage issues at all and everything seems fine.

I resurrect this old thread just to add some more info for future reference. I came across this topic multiple times while searching the best way to turn on an Iot-relay, such as the one @DougA mentioned above. (My original way was to use a USB plugged into the Pi, with - & + going to the relay)

I am using an ADAfruit arcade bonnet, so some gpio pins were causing conflict with the controls.

To test I used:

sudo su cd /sys/class/gpio echo 8 > export cd gpio8 echo out > direction echo 1 > value

To set a specific pin to turn high/low (on/off), add one of these options in /boot/config.txt

xx is the BCM number of the GPIO you want to use

dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=xx

for the default where GPIOxx will go low on boot and high after shutdown

dtoverlay=gpio-poweroff,gpiopin=xx,active_low

to make the GPIO go high while the system is up

Adding to the /boot/config.txt allowed my Iot-relay to power on the switched outlets within 1-2 seconds of boot

references
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=154824

I'm using a Pac-Drive from Ultimarc for my LED buttons. @savetheclocktowr made a controller software for some nice sequencing effects. It's not needed for permanent lighting, the Pac-Drive will do that out-of-the-box in Retropie.

ok.. i was mainly curious if this was a standard, or decent way of doing things or not... seems a little wonky, but also works. since I do clear cabinets, it can all be seen :)

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