@buffyp00h said in Audio stutter in some SNES games on surround receiver:

All have the same problem on soundbar systems (and likely also on surround receivers).

I just don't get why these particular games generate hdmi sound that gets wrecked by so many setups, one would think there was a way to fix this at the source - the generation of sound on the pi/other device.

Just my 0.02 here, the world of modern TVs and home theater/surround sound devices is needlessly complicated for these simple old tasks we are trying to recreate here with simple digital signals (ironically that are emulations of old analog signals).

What I would try to see if it helps:
Many TVs have a "game mode" that is intended to reduce or eliminate "signal processing" to enable a more pure, delay free signal and timings. Many surround sound receivers have something similar, although it is usually called Pure Audio or Direct Sound mode. You might see if your receiver has this option and try it to see if it eliminates audio hitches.

For what it's worth, I have an Onkyo receiver at home and even with modern consoles I have noticed that something in the HDMI convergence where all video inputs are routed to a single HDMI output to the TV will cause a 'gap' in sounds sometimes. (After a dead silence of any kind, the first sound made is either dropped entirely or gets cut so I only hear part of it before normal audio resumes. Sort of like the audio stream has to buffer up before it becomes stable again.)

EDIT: Hit the submit button too soon and wasn't done typing.

@mitu

OK thank you. I will start from a new image.

After installing Daphne, re-configure your gamepad in EmulationStation again then see if the mapping works in Daphne.

@adamlevowitz
Donkey Kong is one of a few old MAME ROMs that is known to require a "samples" file. The samples file includes the sounds for Jumpman walking & jumping, Donkey Kong stomping in the beginning, etc.

In the folder structure you can place this a ZIP file which includes these sounds. Do not unzip the file, this screenshot just shows you the path and the contents of the zip file:

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If you're curious a list of six MAME2003 ROMs are known to require a "samples" file. There may be more, but these six are Berzerk, Donkey Kong, Space Invaders, Mario Bros., Q*Bert, and Track & Field:

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As someone mentioned before, MAME is picky on file names.

Solved..
I've updated the ownership of below folders and all files under it..
sudo chown -R pi:pi /home/pi
sudo chown -R pi:pi /opt/retropie/configs

it fixed the issue, when IP or any change such as C or H , has been made on netplay setup . it wasn't update the "netplay_ip_address = " in retroarch.cfg accordingly.

thank for helps.

@mitu

Thanks! This gets stranger.
Originally I was using a MicroSD Adapter to read the card on a built-in SD card reader in an HP Elitebook 2540P I5 laptop running Windows 10. Today, I used a different micro SD card reader (a USB version this time "T-flash USB") - didn't even know I had one, but found it by chance when I was going through my USB drives in order to install gpartLIVE as bootable drive) on the same laptop. When I looked at the micro SD card using this USB reader, disk manager showed the 256MB partition, another space of several gigs, and a large unallocated space (albeit TOO large). I wiped out the partitions (using Diskpart I believe). Then I saw a capacity of 2TB of unallocated space (on a 128GB card!!!). I got gpart to run on my other Retropie SD Card (never actually needed the USB drive) and using the same USB reader, it too reported 2TB for total capacity. Other Linux utilites reported the same capacity. I tried a different SD card in this USB reader and that reader always shows SIZE 2TB, but it does show the correct partition sizes. Now I had the opposite issue - too much space reported. Various partitioning and formating utilities choked b/c I think they were trying to read/write beyond the actual capacity of the drive. On a whim, I put the card back in the original Micro SD card adapter and disk manager showed 116GB unallocated. I created a simple volume and it worked. I imaged the card and the Pi booted. Almost 24 hours later and I'm almost back to where I started. I thought these adapters were just devices which passed the connection through pin for pin with no 'smarts' in-between. Maybe the built-in card reader had an issue? Dunno. In any case, thanks for all of your help.

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@jjrambo Please do not post a support request without first reading and following the advice in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

@night5hade This worked perfectly! thank you!

@tiberboi The 2 GB is more than good enough. Like I said - you'll never use more than one.
Take the extra money and spend it on a fan, heat sinks, a strong power supply and a case. You'll get your moneys worth.

@mitu thank you very much

This is not a problem. Usually there should also be a framefile, which is basically a textfile that references all the other movie clips iirc. Just try it.

@mitu It was commented out in my /boot/config.txt file. I uncommented it, but it had no effect. Here is my current config.txt file:

# For more options and information see # http://rpf.io/configtxt # Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details # uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode #hdmi_safe=1 # uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible # and your display can output without overscan disable_overscan=1 # uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console # goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border #overscan_left=16 #overscan_right=16 #overscan_top=16 #overscan_bottom=16 # uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus # overscan. #framebuffer_width=1280 #framebuffer_height=720 # uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output hdmi_force_hotplug=1 # uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA) hdmi_group=1 hdmi_mode=4 # uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in # DMT (computer monitor) modes hdmi_drive=2 # uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or # no display #config_hdmi_boost=4 # uncomment for composite PAL #sdtv_mode=2 #uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default. #arm_freq=800 # Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces #dtparam=i2c_arm=on #dtparam=i2s=on #dtparam=spi=on # Uncomment this to enable infrared communication. #dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17 #dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18 # Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README # Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835) dtparam=audio=on [pi4] # Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d max_framebuffers=2 [all] #dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d overscan_scale=1 disable_splash=1 #enable_tvout=1

I should add that after uncommenting overscan_scale=1, I also tried uncommenting overscan_left and setting it to -16. It also had no effect.

@hitstore In the graphical Linux environment, this is called Plymouth or bootsplash.
We need more information, which Linux distribution do you use?

https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/11662/plymouth-themes

This article is a good start.