@GDkitty said in EmulationStation asks to map buttons that my gamepad doesn't have:

I am on the current ES (4.4 i think?), and it does not show the message to hold to skip, though it does work.

It does - but just at the beginning, before you start pressing and mapping your input. It's been fixed in the mean time, but it's not yet part of the stable update cycle.

Nevermind. I figured it out already. I had to SSH into it and write some commands to install the PS4 and 360 controllers manually. Works great now

@morrisav10
Yeah Its Nice this is the attachment https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/communications/chatpad

The chatlad fits on 360/one controllers

btw: just noticed that RGUI is still the old "text one"; I remember seeing the new RGUI previously (graphical, same as windows retroarch) but cannot remember what core. Lr-mame2003 and 2010 now show the "old" one.
Is RGUI version (new vs old) depending on the specific core ?

@azamoth
As @caver01 told you there are several ways... and your display just needs a few Pins as told....

If nothing else helps use MCP23008 or MCP23017 gpio expanders and connect to I2C-bus. But please don't ask me how to do this. Never used that :)

I updated to 4.2.13 (8094863) this morning and the problem appears to be resolved.

I'll have to wait a few days or so and see how this all works out. The USB adapter is Amazon, so fast, but the SFC controller is eBay, so you know. The seller claims the crack does not in any way affect the controller's actual usage. From the pictures it may be fine as long as it's sufficiently glued (and presumably it already is.) I prefer not to give out my address unless I get downright desperate anyway and the controller was the cheaper part of the two. I do still really thank you for the offer though.

You know, even though I'm going to do that and hopefully solve the problem in a bit of a roundabout non-solving manner, I am still sort of curious about the iBuffalo. Given that a powered USB hub might help one person and that sort of thing, I sort of wonder if it could be more of an issue of something like it actually doesn't use enough power. Maybe the powered hub compensates by being more consistent in handling its lower power usage. It makes me sort of wonder: what would happen if you increased its usage just a bit, maybe getting it closer to 10mA? Perhaps some sort of resistor placed somewhere or something like this? Given that I bought one of these specifically to dedicate to the RPi and they are already modified (I trimmed down the turbo and clear buttons to be less than flush with the casing so they absolutely can't be pressed by accident under any circumstances -- though if I push down with a finger I can still do it if I really want which I likely never will) I sort of wouldn't mind if I had to do something like that, but honestly I have no clue what to really do in that respect.

EDIT: I tested the Saturn-style USB gamepad I had found (hate that 8-way, but it works) and it came up as 2mA idle as well. So I guess it's not power usage since it's the same. I have no clue why the heck the RPi produces this problem and a PC does not.

I got the adapter and SFC gamepad, so I'll be giving them a try on the RPi later. They work great on a PC in an initial test other than the gamepad being pretty old and worn (the d-pad in particular doesn't have the snap to it that it should. I wish I could switch these from the iBuffalo but of course they're quite different on the inside.)

Yesterday I turned on the RPi without any USB controller plugged in. The arcade controls worked perfectly in ES. I runned a Megadrive game and the arcade controls were recognized as player two. I wasn't able to go back to ES with start-select on the arcade controls. When I plugged in the USB SNES controller I could go back to ES with start-select on that controller.

Any way to "fix" this?

I would be surprised if this was successfully done by someone. The video for the screen is streamed over a proprietary 5 GHz radio. A gentleman in a previous post said it's based on 802.11n and he could very well be right. Still I think it may be possible through a custom USB adapter of some kind, though the 480mbps throughput limit may turn out to be a constraint, not sure. Is it possible? I believe so yes. Is it something easy to do, almost certainly not. You would probably need to find an engineer to design a custom USB adapter to communicate with the pad.

@whitehyena to help you we need to take a look at these files from your system:

/opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch.cfg - be sure to mask your retroachievements account info, if you have it on your .cfg file.

/opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch-joypads/YOUR_JOYSTICK_NAME.cfg

Paste their content in pastebin or something similar.

@priest282 also 2.5a is the specification for a pi 3

WHAT ARE THE POWER REQUIREMENTS?

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Recommended PSU current capacity 2.5A

Maximum total USB peripheral current draw 1.2A

@bifelix89 set the "a" button as your hotkey in emulationstation start menu controller configuration. Just so the hotkey option gets generated. Now open up the file /opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch/autoconfig/NameOfYourController.cfg . Find the part for exit and hotkey. Assign the number that is your start key to the hotkey and change the exit to another key. (Not b or x as they are used for other options)

I've found a solution:

Install attract frontend, then i can configure my two joypads manually for the frontend.

For the backend(retroarch) i had the next line with value "linuxraw" so i changed it to udev and autoconfig worked!

input_joypad_driver = "udev"

The buttons were previously mapped so only configuring retroarch/all/retroarch.cfg was enough, now the two joypads work.

Hope this post helps someone!

@RetroHopeful Not at all. That file only has the settings for the latest controller you configured, no worries :)

It effectively suggests that select is being mapped as the hotkey - which is a good sign!

I'd expect you'd be able to exit a game by pressing the keys you mapped to select and start, together, on the keyboard. And, as you redefine your other controllers, I'd expect you to be able to do the same for each as that happens.

Still, I'm puzzled/concerned with that error message you keep getting - that clearly suggests something is wrong with your current setup.

At this stage, if it isn't too much trouble, I'd strongly suggest formatting your SD card (or trying out a new one), reinstalling the image, and seeing how that goes.

Hi
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you