I think I screwed something up on the pre-made retroie image. Because I re-flashed the pi and set I2C to be loaded through sudo raspi-config, now when I reboot it does detect my I2C. One step closer to my mobile retropie!

You'll need to use something like pi-shrink to make the image be as large as its contents (vs. the full copy of the card).

https://github.com/Drewsif/PiShrink

Please add more info about your system, as detailed in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first.

What's the resolution of the monitor ? Have you tried to set up the video resolution through raspi-config ?

Why does the dos text on the Retropie image not conform to the size of the screen and make it readable on the Pi-boy?

What makes you think it doesn't ? What's the resolution of the screen ? I suggested - in your other topic - how to increase the size of the console fonts - did you try that ?

Thanks @mitu thats kinda what I needed to know, I'm a bit clueless when it comes to pc monitors and pi's.

@trevevs I wouldn't recommend this solution, especially if your PC has a GPO pushed by the organisation that own said PC.

I don't think the SD card capacity has any role in this, more likely the emulator versions are different on the systems you're testing. Reicast seems to have issues in the latest versions with controller inputs - configurations that worked before are not working at all right now.

@MISTERHOLLYW00D great choice, i use AdvanceMame and FBNeo (for NeoGeo) and am very satisfied with this combination.
I also like Nitroball 😊, i recommend to play "Gunball" also. That is the japanese Version of Nitroball which is totally different concerning the Level Design 😉

@fitincontact Atari jaguar doesn't run full speed on my overclocked pi 3. I'm curious how the pi 4 will handle it but as Herb said the pi zero will be a slideshow if you can even get it to run at all.

Yes thx herb I am. Booting from an OLDEN 1TB hardrive that was top of the line a long time ago. I tried easus. waste of time. I tried mini partition tool. Nop. Only thing that worked? gParted. FTW!
fdisk -l shows

Device Boot Start End Sectors Size Id Type
/dev/sda1 * 8192 124927 116736 57M e W95 FAT16 (LBA)
/dev/sda2 124928 1953523711 1953398784 931.5G 83 Linux

Moral of the story just use gPared. Everythig else is a waste of time.

Thanks! I think I'll probably go the imaging route then. Any suggestions on a good imaging tool? Or do the same tools we use to write images, such as Win32 Disk Imager or balenaEtcher, create them as well?

I figured it out, at least for Nintendo.
I had been testing in Atari 2600, attempting to tweak both the retroarch.cfg file under /opt/configs/atari2600, in addition to the file under /opt/configs/all/retroarch-joypads/Microchip Technology Inc. Ultimate 2.cfg

I was doing some testing on Nintendo, and ended up doing the final modifications under the Microchip file referenced above.

Here are my settings, and "Enter" (19) is my new hotkey, and "6" (13) works to exit!

input_device = "Microchip Technology Inc. Ultimate 2"
input_driver = "udev"
input_l_btn = "14"
input_load_state_btn = "14"
input_start_btn = "12"
input_exit_emulator_btn = "13"
input_down_axis = "+1"
input_r_btn = "17"
input_save_state_btn = "17"
input_right_axis = "+0"
input_state_slot_increase_axis = "+0"
input_select_btn = "11"
input_left_axis = "-0"
input_state_slot_decrease_axis = "-0"
input_up_axis = "-1"
input_a_btn = "0"
input_b_btn = "1"
input_reset_btn = "1"
input_enable_hotkey_btn = "19"

Hope this helps someone.

Thank you for doing what you do.

The digital speed settings were key (overriding the default values of "10"). Your settings may vary.

The digital speed settings should not affect analog controls like trackpads.

There is no sensitivity for all games, each needs to be set according to the encoder wheel used in each machine.

Information here on finding the sensitivity value needed for each game:

https://web.archive.org/web/20160421175734/http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Spinner_Turn_Count

I got it working, but I can't say exactly what I did to fix it. The only thing I can think of is that the Mini-PAC needs to be plugged in before any other controller - so no mouse, no keyboard, just the controller USB. Then plug in a keyboard. I'm not sure if this is what fixed it, since I was attempting other remedies concurrently.

Though not entirely the same configuration (it was a Pi 4), I encountered an issue wherein after the boot sequence the display would be completely blank. I eventually narrowed it down to the memory split setting - I had changed it, trying to follow the instructions for RetroPie 'manual installation.' Keeping it default resolved the problem.

I replied to that same old thread that you are talking about:
https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/22692/fake-8bitdo-sf30-pro-way-to-get-working/21

As I mentioned over there these controllers work just fine over Bluetooth on my Linux PC, but aren't detected over Bluetooth on the pie. Thought I'd drop a comment here also so I can see if any progress is made by anyone else.

@wstanek said in I-PAC2, connecting 1 Button to 2 Switches?:

I wouldn't recommend doing that though. Its better to have things straight forward, especially if you have guests.

That was one of the reasons why I was thinking about using dedicated buttons for "Hotkeys", as IMHO it is far easier to explain "Exit here this red Button, Save State that one with the record icon and Load this green one here...."

But then, maybe I will get myself into to much things to consider - as this is my 1st Build of a Control Panel I think you two are right to stick with the Basics (Retropies own Hotkeys + I-Pacs Shift - so far I thought to use the Shift ability of the I-Pac to get some of the most crucial Keys for Amiga/CBM64/etc. Games).
And thanks to you both as I now know that it is possible and that with a later (re)build and gained experience I could think again about single button double-links :cheers: