@mitu Merged! =)

@Manukan Ahoy .. I see that the topic is old, but i have going back and forth trying to fix the crash that occurred on my Rp48gb .. I have 2 projects mem card with retropie and o e with emulationstation...
The first works great no problems .. But the second crashes after the boot... I have tried everything that is here and there (all tricks and tips) but with no results...
Finally i decide to try something random that i didnt saw in any forum - ** i have connected the raspberry pi to another tv (the main one was 55in, the second one is 10in and for my surprise it runs without problem)**

So i have no idea did i discovered the hot water... But at least that can save a few ours of pointless wandering around the forums.

If there is fix for thah to be ok with higher resolution so it wont crashes on 55in tv let me know, thanks !

@BuZz Updated. Thank you.

@Zero-零度 This may also help - https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/31660/chinese-characters-displays-question-mark-on-emustation?_=1676810890295

@mitu said in No Source Found for Kodi:

@Parabola said in No Source Found for Kodi:

(prefer)mode 16: 1920x1080 @ 60Hz 16:9, clock:148Mhz progressive

I see that the preferred resolution is 1080p, I wonder which resolution is chosen by Kodi when it starts. Can you run

tvservice -s

after Kodi is started and check which resolution is trying to set ? You'll need SSH enabled and you can run commands on the Pi without an attached keyboard.

EDIT: if you can get the Kodi log file from $HOME/.kodi/temp/kodi.log, please upload it to pastebin.com and provide the link - maybe there's a hint about the resolution used in that file.

Okay, so, I haven't done any of this yet. And here's why:

I had the Pi set up on a spare computer monitor (which was the Vizio TV) while I was setting it up and doing the major trouble shooting, but I planned on having it stay with the living room TV when I was done. So if the problem was potentially the TV, I'd try a different TV.

And it worked. Sort of.

I can see Kodi now, I was able to play some movies off of it, so the No Source Found error is gone, but I'm still getting two odd errors I'm troubleshooting through:
1. An odd pixel artifact over certain colors? I'm not sure what causes it, but it's noticeable in Kodi menus, when playing media, and during emulation. But not in the RetroPie menu.
2. When certain overlays / submenus should be on screen, the screen goes to black. This happens in Kodi and RetroPie and I'm guessing it's another resolution thing, but I'm not certain.

I plan on testing the HDMI cables, the ports, and some TV settings before I make a new post about any problems that remain, but if this thread needs to be closed, I can make a different one later. Technically, Kodi is working for me now.

@y2kn from what/where/how are you trying to format the card? In my experience, by using a micro-sd/full-size-sd-cartridge-adapter (or however those may be called) there are times/ports/windows-systems which are recognizing such a micro-sd-in-full-size-sd-cartidge either via external usb-cardreader or via build-in-front-panel-cardreaders as locked, even if the adapter-cartridge is set to writable... sometimes (for external card-readers) depluging,repluging helped, sometimes it worked on a different usb-port... On certain machines/ports it seem to be a gamble for micro-sd in full-size-cartride, on other machines I never experienced it (even with the same external card-readers). Still, those observations are the minority of all cases [accessing a micro-sd card by card-readers] observed - and if the problem persists on a particular card, most propably @Folly explanation may nail it.
Btw. have you tried booting raspberry os (or another desktop os) from usb, then inserting the sd-card and checked what gparted (maybe needed to be installed via apt(manager of choice)) is reporting and maybe, instead of just formating, it would be possible to (re)write (the/)a new partition table and a fresh partition to it.

P.S.: You really haven't tried to format the card from a OS running/booted via that card, or?

@Steve_C78 which shaders? which specific emulators? please fill out https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first including verbose log

please read https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Shaders-and-Smoothing/

overlays + shaders compound the performance drain, so may not be feasible for all games. reducing resolution will help performance but reduce fidelity such that scanline shaders look awful, for example.

if you're seeing the thermometer icon, your pi is overheating and reducing internal clocks to reduce the temperature. fans/better case will at least allow it to throw as much power as it can at your config.

Please provide the rest of the info requested in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first.
Add the config.txt file content between code tags (```).

@barbudreadmon

Good for you ;-)

@mitu
Yeah, still no luck. So strange, as I had been able to use my gamepads in Xinput mode for at least a couple years from maybe 2019 onward till I updated my whole RetroPie OS and packages just a couple weeks ago. However, in going through the comments in github for xpad, it does seem like others are having issues with connecting their wired controllers through Xinput mode. Either way, thanks for your help up to this point and I'll keep digging around.

@mitu I made another test replacing the SSD ( Kingston SSD KC3000, 2048 GB, M.2 2280, NVMe PCIe Gen 4.0, Read: 7000MB/s, Write: 7000MB/s, SKC3000D/2048G) for a SSD "Adata Legend 740 NVMe, 250GB, PCI Express 3.0, M.2"

ALEG-740-250GCS-6.jpg

And this SSD disk works!! (now I can see several folders inside "retropie-mount" folder, "BIOS", "roms", etc)... but is a very tiny SSD compared with the Kingston one, maybe it worked because this is a PCIE 3.0 and the Kingston is PCIE4.0? maybe raspberry pi 4 doesn't support PCIe 4.0 because that technology needs more power? I used the same enclosure for both SSDs (ORICO M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure to USB-C PCIe Adapter 10Gbps USB 3.2 Gen2 for NVMe M-Key/M+B Key SSD 2230/2242/2260/2280)

@mrt88 If ES is just naming the device to configure as keyboard, you haven't switched the mode of the IPac. If it would be in one of the gamepad modes, ES would say something like "# gamepad(s) detected..."

AFAIK the mode is persistent once set and if possible you may well keep to @hopwon and change the mode to your desired one on a windows machine/observed checked via winipac.

Once it reports itself as 2 gamepads.... as I had downgraded (after updating from 1.39) my Firmware from the 1.5? to 1.49 (KBD only) I can't try it out and really don't recall how the multi-mode DInput/XInput differs for P1/P2 - Opening the configure input from emulation station I 1st would configure the parts connected to the P1 side of the I-PAC2 and see whether the P2 side responds afterwards (so both pseudo-devices are using the same identifier), but my guess would be that you have to configure the input again with the stick/buttons connected to the P2 side of the I-Pac [1].

Edit: If you opt for the "Keyboard" way, manual editing configs is the only way (AFAIK) of setting the keys for player 2+. The Docs @mitu linked to are pretty good, in addition you may have a look at this (maybe somewhat old) guide from theink. And the meta/shift-key from the IPac2 was one of the main reasons I switched back to keyboard only mode, as it opens up so much possibilities in key-assignment that I am unsure how to achieve the same from within a gamepad mode of the I-Pac.

1: Would be wise on ultimarcs behalve to report P1/P2 sides of the IPac (in Gamepad(s) Mode) with different IDs, as both parts could be configured in a different way/layout button assignment via Winipac.

I gave up as I see there is no support on Github or anywhere!

Uninstall and try something else

@martinbailey74
The only gamepad driver I have installed is xpad. I picked option 1 - DisplayYesNo for the security mode. I did have some trouble on the initial connection, so you'll want to select the background option under the Configure bluetooth connect mode. Once you have that, try connecting the Stadia again. Whether it connects or not, select to remove a bluetooth device, pick your Stadia from the list, and then re-connect after that.

I'm not sure why this would work for any reason, but these are the steps I took and it works for me now, and pairs right up after a reboot when ES is done loading. One other thing to think about is if the Stadia is pairing to something else before the RetroPie grabs it.

What color light are you getting on the Stadia when you're having difficulty connecting after a reboot?

**Update: I recently had some trouble with connecting my Stadia, so I changed the connection mode to "default", which seems to have fixed it. You can try both modes and see if one or the other works for you.

@TheAutisticGamer said in Run Games that require a Desktop for SDL:

EDIT. Is this how its suppost to be done in emulators.cfg?
sonic3air = "XINIT:/home/pi/RetroPie/ports/sonic3air.sh"
ports_sonic3air = "sonic3air"

No, it should be

sonic3air = "XINIT:/path/to/launch/script/or/program" default = "sonic3air"

I don't think your game is installed as a port - you should have the emulators.cfg in /opt/retropie/configs/ports/sonic3air and the /home/pi/RetroPie/ports/sonic3air.sh should contain:

"/opt/retropie/supplementary/runcommand/runcommand.sh" 0 _PORT_ "sonic3air"

@tielax11 said in Joystick not working in game:

Built From: [64gb]-CRT.Blast.Arcade.RPi4.ES.AM.Dual.Monitor-DynamicDuo image

This is a third party preconfigured image. Such unofficial images are not supported. Please seek support from the author of the image or install the official image.

@trapexit I'm on the latest lr-Opera and I am experiencing the same problem. Reload works for a while (few scenes), then it stops working until I reset the emulator.