The answer is yes. The issue might be finding the right power adapter the fit the plug as the OEM adapter for the nes was 9v, 1amp.

This is exactly what I did. I used wire that was probably to thick so it seemed like an easier way to do it.

I have a miniature sliding switch with 3 pins, I just soldered negative to the end pin and positive to the middle pin. I then covered the remaining exposed pin in hot glue to avoid any misdemeanours, and so if i removed the switch i knew which pin to use again. It's not a really clear photo, but you can see it in my picture here.

Unfortunately i'm in the UK, and I can't actually find it on their website, but my local Maplin (electrical hobby store) had one on the shelf, was about £2.

:: Edit - Switch I purchased is this one (it is tiny) ::

@petrockblog said in setting controlBlock service to gamepadtype: mame ?:

Yes, it will exactly do what you have written.

Thank you for your reply!

The answer is very similar :-) Try to follow the steps given at https://github.com/petrockblog/PowerBlock#powerblock-driver. It would be great, if you would post the outcome here.

@petrockblog thank you for that! Worked like a charm. The PowerBlock is truly a necessity for me, and once I'm done with my pet project, I'll be sure to share.

I use https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQDJJKU/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1482085935&sr=8-20-spons&keywords=power+switch+wireless&psc=1 and it works pretty well.

Yes, you need two ControlBlocks to support 4 players. The capability for stackable ControlBlocks was recently added.

From others I know that shipping from Germany to the US usually takes around two weeks. Customs can add some additional delay on that. So far, we do not have any retailer in the US, sorry.

@GtBFilms Fantastic, thank you very much!

You could adapt the driver according to your needs. As far as I understand you would need to adapt the classes DigitalIn and/or DigitalOut, see https://github.com/petrockblog/ControlBlockService2/tree/master/src/controlblock/hal.

There was a recent update of the driver. Maybe things are working for you with that then?

And glad to hear it is working for you now!

I just got another switch which works, not sure how this one would

So, I've finally managed to find some time to assemble my RP in the OneNineDesign case.

This was V2, the first one was a bit trial and error, so I bought another case (under a fiver delivered!) and set about working on it today. I did purchase a 3mm white LED as the 5mm almost lit the room up-the 3mm is still bright but not as bad. I also purchased a set of diamond hobby files from Maplin for about £6 so I could file the edges of the holes I drilled. I also made sure to cover the unit in masking tape as it marks so easily, but also good for getting measurements right.

So, this is the case:

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Cut out for power:
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Switch and LED (lined them up with the audio output and HDMI to make it look a little more in line with factory cut outs):
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Here you can see the header pins bent down to allow the original lid of the case to go back on:
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And here are the parts I had to file off in order to let the lid sit back on as it should:
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All in all, I'm really pleased with the outcome. I was nervous about bending the pins on the ControlBlock, but I was so careful and it worked out fine: to look at it doesn't look any different from how it did originally. The wiring is quite fiddly and it is a kind of semi-permanent modification, but the with is only held in with hot glue so peels away easily, and the LED & it's retaining clip slide out easily should I need to take it apart.

I was a little concerned about heat, but running NES/SNES/Megadrive emulators it gets warm, only slightly warmer when running the N64, but if it gets too hot I just take the lid off: but so far, no issues.

@Danorak1981 Well that was helpful - thanks! I saw the guide on their site, but didn't know I needed to do that RPi config for the ControlBlock if I wasn't installing a switch or controllers (yet). I'm brand new to this type of thing, but I'm loving it.

I followed the guide (I'm also an idiot), and it seemed to install correctly. I'll need to connect my switch to the ControlBlock before I know for sure that my setup works. Thanks again!

I made the observation in the past that using a high-quality USB cable also plays a major role: A thicker cable leads to a lower voltage drop when the Rai needs a lot of power. You might want to try out another cable.