@suleske I found several inexpensive and simple circuits I could build. This little board has some added features (e.g. setting the key press switch delay), so I bought it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262199569276

I suggest that you buy the raspberrypi charger wire as you will have no problem here is the one I have

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-3-Model-B-5V-3A-Power-Adapter-Micro-USB-Port-Power-Charger-EU-US/32761294031.html?src=google&albslr=220568862&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source={ifdyn:dyn}{ifpla:pla}{ifdbm:DBM&albch=DID}&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&albcp=756822904&albag=35305934810&slnk=&trgt=68416666751&plac=&crea=en32761294031&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw_TNlLew1wIVmTUrCh0bLgcOEAQYBCABEgLoD_D_BwE

I also use the PowerBlock and it is well supported here. The guy who runs the place is a Global Moderator in this forum. Check the unit here:
https://blog.petrockblock.com/powerblock/

So, the power source is really such an important point that in no case should not be neglected? And let's say if I want to use an external HD that does not have its own power, then it is desirable to buy a USB hub with its own power supply? But even so, I still can not understand what would be so terrible if the external HD is powered by the pi itself.

@Darksavior said in [Hardware] Power Help:

Not sure what made you think it was Uk exclusive.

I just assumed, given that the Raspberry Pi is made in the UK, so the power supply would be too. I ordered a powered USB hub from them for my Nintendo build, and it was UK exclusive. No biggie, thanks for letting me know!

@TMNTturtlguy said in [Hardware] Power Help:

@hansolo77 you mentioned microcenter before. Get the microcenter brand QVS 2. 5Amp micro USB. They have it with the pi3 stuff and it is made exclusively for raspberry pi 2 & 3. It costs $10.99 US. I have 3 of them on 3 units and have never had a problem.

I've seen those QVS brand products. I've always been kinda shy to buy stuff like that. Sure, generic food and drugs is ok.. but when it comes to electronics I prefer to stick with a higher class brand. That said, I never even heard of this "iEssentials" brand before. But I saw it was cheaper than the QVS and just went with that. I suppose you do get what you pay for. I sort of impulse bought the 2nd one, because I couldn't remember if it was THIS one I had trouble with, or if it was the one inside the MCM Media Center kit (CanaKIT branded). It's good to know that the QVS brand is decent quality. Might consider that for my next project (whatever that will be lol).

@mena Please don't hijack the original post. But to answer your question, most likely it will also protect the USB devices connected to it from power surges. These USB ports are meant to power or charge devices only and does not have data communication capabilities. USB devices such as USB keyboard/mouse, USB game controllers, etc will require both power and data and therefore have to be connected to the RPI USB ports and draw power from it as well.

@jay81uk simonster is right about the power requirements of various RPi models. So what is yours?
The Kindle Fire power supply normally will provide 1A current which 150ma more than the one from chromecast.

@lostless aha, ok then.

@petrockblog Sorry, forum rules prohibit that. Just do a simple google search for them and options come up. I do love your ControlBlock though, thanks for making it!

@ortsac thanks for your answer. I understand and will try to find a way positioning the cable differently, or just live with it :)

Regards.

I am going to put it in a NES advantage, and the two player switch "might" be used for power ON/OFF instead.

I think I have corrupted this card and reloaded it like 8 times!

@edmaul69 I know normally you're supposed to just wire the positive and negative ends to the appropriate pins on the control block. They're specifically marked. But im not sure what to do at this point. Thanks for your reply

@iggy
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq230/mountaindew117_08/17759069_10212795584590442_417353204_o.png

This is my current setup for my portable case. Everything will fit inside a pelican 1200 series case.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq230/mountaindew117_08/17622627_10212795602830898_1636030306_o.jpg?t=1491013230
I hope to be able to start putting everything together here in the next couple weeks. Have to wait on my face plates that im having 3d printed so i can mount everything to them that needs to be mounted.

It turned out that I was just using a cheap ass micro USB cable, when I replaced it with a quality one the issue stopped happening, thanks anyways guys

Well, I've solved it myself.
I put it here in case someone serves.

What it does when starting the emulator N64 is to restart the GPIO of the Raspberry Pi and the pins that are configured as output PWM are put to full power.

What I have done to solve it is to insert the following command:

Gpio -g mode 18 pwm

I put it inside the infinite loop that checks the temperature.

I hope that it would be useful to someone.

You can download and install the latest revision of the PowerBlock driver. You can control the shutdown action now with a shutdown script, see https://github.com/petrockblog/PowerBlock#shutdown-script.

@tmar89 The very 1st thing I would do is try a different PSU. Just to rule it out. 2A should be enough for a Pi2 but if you have something with 2.5A I would go with that. Also, use a hard wired PSU rather than a plug and USB cable combo. Some cables just aren't up to it.