After trying the XML files here I still have not got the wired controller working.

It does stop auto moving which makes the app and keyboard usable but I would still love to get the xbox controller working with Kodi.

I didn't mention that Kodi did not come out on the the main screen of ES even after multiple times going through the simple process.

I also didn't mention I got Kodi working and then tried to get Kodi on the main ES screen and it didn't work and Kodi stopped working with the controller, I have no idea why but even when I un do the steps taken to move Kodi it still does not work with the controller.

@megido https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first

Try getting different roms.

Turned out i was missing cue files:)

@BuZz all right, bought a new one, waiting for it to arrive.

but the "flash" signal shouldn't be appearing then?

So i set the keyboard to disable caps lock completely for now with:

XKBOPTIONS="caps:none"

So if i cant swap with the meta key i am just going to leave it like this and replace the click on/off key with a standard key that the rest of the buttons use so it never gets stuck "down" which makes the number keys be f1-f10 and makes the "-_" key and the "+=" keys plus some others unuseable when the caps lock key is down. That way if i need an fkey i will hold down the caps lock key but it wont stay locked so i dont have to worry about it being stuck in that mode

That did the trick. Thanks!

Found the issue... I guess somewhere along the line (before I loaded ROMS), I modified this - "Parse gamelists only" ... all good for now!

@robfilmmaker

I dont know how to downgrade my retropie. I dont have a pc so can only do it through terminal with internet connection, i dont think thats pissible :/

@Jeanybean
Unpair with your Pi then sync that controller with something else (like maybe your Wii U) and then come back to the Pi and try a new sync.

I had a similar issue with a different Bluetooth controller and this worked for me :-)

Hi all. To make my question crystal clear, basically I'm looking to know the following.

Do you benefit at all from setting "gpu_freq=500"? Does it set the frequencies for the various GPU blocks to 500 MHz without "force_turbo=1" enabled?

I'm hoping it does because being forced to disable the dynamic clock driver to do this seems like an unfortunate design oversight for a hobbyist circuit board. It's bugging me so much I think I'm going to be trying to determine the answer with my test bed Pi3 tonight. Hoping someone out there has an answer for me though. The way the documentation is written seems to indicate that "gpu_freq=500" might work, but setting the individual blocks (such as v3d_freq=500) doesn't, or that's one way to interpret it anyway, its not 100% clear about that. But in the worst case scenario, if the 3d block is locked at 250 MHz, it will probably stay that way as I really don't like the idea of disabling dynamic clocks lol.

@agour Have you ruled out the adapter at all? Does it work fine on a PC? Also, are you using a Libretro based emulator, as the retroarch configs only apply to them.

Attract Mode is the best option. It does all that is needed and can be made to look like a Mame frontend. Lots more documentation on it.

awesome thank you so much for the reply. I will keep an eye on that.

never mind.

it seems with the launching screens that i got from here.

https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/4611/runcommand-system-splashscreens

i just need to spam the a button to get it the timing correct.

sorry all

@rbaker said in Is 2.4A enough?:

@HenrikoMagnifico I have a brick similar to what you describe but I have 4 usb ports on it. It is rated at 4.5A. This means that inside my cabinet, I can power the pi comfortably with joypads, keyboard and an ipac decoder. I also have another for charging things like phones and kindles at the same time. As long as your current draw across all devices doesn't exceed the rating of the charging device, you will be fine. No need to worry about how the current is shared. Your devices will only draw a maximum as described on their case. E.g. This keyboard I'm on is 70mA, so only 0.07A out of the 4.5A available. Look on the back of devices, usually printed on. A charger can never output more than a device needs so don't worry.

Thanks for the help, I will purchase the USB charger I talked about earlier :)