Sorry to necro this topic, but according to the following link, avoid_pwm_pll=1 was removed from the firmware in October 2015 and is now always enabled.

https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-firmware/commit/260bc9c7589b3359485fc02fed8f56d4c5eaad9a

Does this affect overclocking and, if so, how?

The Wiki still contains the following, which may now be incorrect. Does anyone know for sure?

By setting avoid_pwm_pll=1 (which negatively affects 3.5mm audio quality) you can overclock the individual GPU components with the parameters:

v3d_freq - speed of OpenGL 3D graphics processor isp_freq - speed of Image Sensor Pipeline h264_freq - speed of x264 video decoder (not used by emulators, used by Kodi)

@erk005 if you have a wiimote to plug the controller into to have it wireless, the mayflash dolphinbar is freaking awesome!! For wired the raphnet-tech adapter mentioned above works great. I have two of them i used before i got the dolphinbar.

@mahcneto winters fury is the one i have thats is completely unplayable. I went through a lot just to get through the first level but the second is completely unplayable. Soo much lag and you cant see 2 feet in front of you. Shame really cause it looks really good on the videos and the first level was cool aside from all the issues

I also have the pi2scart ouputting on a 28 inch consumer crt from philips and dont have those "problems". I cant even take photos of my scanlines becaues they are so subtile. Would like them a bit more beefy to be honest but its not that easy to get a pro crt here sadly.

@jcrod1000 Ask the seller ?

So a bit of an update. Since I was no longer using my RPi3 (I had ordered a XU4) I decided to experiment with it (the RPi3) more than I had before and I installed Lakka on it, and it worked perfectly. Out of the box the games look amazing and the (few) that I have tried, both SNES and PS1 have run perfectly.

This tells me that there isn't a problem with the pi, the power supply or the sd card, its just something different in the versions/configuration in RetroPie. For clarity sake, I always installed RetroPie from official builds, and tried multiple times, always trying to use it with out of the box defaults first.

I gave the RPi3 away, so I can no longer test with it (the XU4 runs circles around it) but it is good to know that it was at least capable of running the emulators that I thought it wasn't.

I have not put RetroPie on the XU4 yet, I am trying to get a decent set of benchmarks (games that run smoothly in Lakka) to compare.

@ranma Yeah, the Pi3 is great for PSX games. There are just two Syphon filter games that were exclusive to PS2 & PSP. The XU4 is easy to set up with RecalBox, but with RetroPie I really had to put many hours into getting it to run. There are a few minor glitches which are going to be addressed with the next RecalBox release.
What the Pi3 does have going for it over the Xu4 is that bluetooth and wifi is included. But still, I am telling you from experience, the XU4 runs PSP and N64 games great. If all you want is PSX, that's fine but it's nice to have access to some of the great PSP games that I have missed out on. Also, it's nice to be able to turn on some of the graphical/resolution enhancements.

some n64 and arcade emulation on the Tinkerboard via retropie

and another

TO THE RETROCAVE!!!

alt text

@phantomthrill What's the RetroArch version you're speaking of ? What's the problem you were having ?
RetroArch uses the A and B buttons to navigate in the RGUI - that's the default and it matches the Emulationstation way of navigation/selection.

@madmodder123 said in A First Look at Nintendo Labo:

Get the ANET A8, it is usually 200$ but it is at 146$ from here:

I always try to avoid non-essential spending for a while after Christmas, but that price is very tempting. Thanks for the heads up.

@mediamogul Actually a really good idea. You can also buy "dead" OEM controllers, or third party controllers from eBay for the parts and mix and match until it is good. I did that with my Logitech PS2 controller. Except for the L3 button it works excellently now.

In my arcade build i found the fan that came with the flat pack kit was really loud when run from full power. It was a 12v fan. So i just found a left over 5v power brick and connected that to the fan and it runs about half speed, just the perfect amount of air flow without the noise.

@mitu thanks for the answer, but not exactly what I meant...

I'll explain myself...I have a custom board that uses the exact same pinout from the link I posted, that same pinout is the same as recalbox which now can simply toggle to activate it

My question is if that can still be made in Retropie like the tutorial I posted or if there's newer ways to do it (and maybe simpler?)

Got curious and tried it out with mame2003 and advancemame and it's way to laggy. To bad cause it seems like a good fighting game.

at least a 4 core 2GHz ARM or CPU with h264 H10p suport
2 Gb RAM
Gb Ethernet
Wifi a/b/g/ac and BT
USB 3
EMMC 8 ~ 32GB and a version without SD card

Separate version with SATA port.

@addison No, the HDMI port on the RPI is output only.

@livefastcyyoung Ok, 300$ is nice. I hope you won't have too many issues though (300$ for a recent device which is still sold around 700$ is kinda fishy)