I did a similar project not too long a go. E.g. built RetroPie into Atari 2600 case. Anyways - yes, key presses that ControlBlock sends when using MAME layout are hardcoded into it's driver:

URL: https://github.com/petrockblog/ControlBlockService2/blob/master/src/controlblock/gamepads/MAMEGamepad.cpp#L41-L141

To change e.g. switch 'z' to send something else than z, say a, you would modify lines below and replace KEY_Z with KEY_A. And recompile and re-install the driver (instructions here https://github.com/petrockblog/ControlBlockService2).

URL: https://github.com/petrockblog/ControlBlockService2/blob/master/src/controlblock/gamepads/MAMEGamepad.cpp#L68-L70 to

Available KEY_* events (that you could replace KEY_Z above) are found from here: https://github.com/petrockblog/ControlBlockService2/blob/master/src/controlblock/uinput/UInputEventCodes.h

I hope this helps you forward. I did a slight re-write for the driver myself as I wanted all the Atari 2600 switches to provide their original functionality. Which isn't straightforward since official ControlBlock driver doesn't support switch where both on and off indicate certain state (e.g. on -> colorTV, off B&W). I suppose I could clean up my code a bit and put it up to github sometime.

ugh!! i must have moved it while reformatting my sd card! this was the problem. thanks for the help!

Sorry for this late reply.
I am glad to hear that things are working now for you!

Hi, sorry for this delayed reply.

I can confirm that the GPIO terminal pins as well as the USB ports do not serve power when the Pi is shut down with the PowerBlockling. I just tested it (again) with a Pi 4.

Hope that helps!

Sorry for this delayed reply.
Thanks for the images! Just to confirm, the PowerBlock needs to have the USB micro connected to the PowerBlock PCB.
To rule out any software configuration issue, you could try and load this RetroPie 4.6 image that already comes with a readily installed PowerBlock driver: https://www.petrockblock.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/retropie-4.6-rpi2_rpi3-powerblock.img_.gz

In addition, I would suggest to remove any USB device except a keyboard to be sure not to get any interference from an USB device. The overall goal I have in mind with these actions is to find a stable status with a working PowerBlock.

Can you give me an impression until which point the boot sequence comes?

Thanks for the kudos!

I found the way, Thanks!! Now on my way to install Pc Super cd rom

Hi! I am sorry to hear that! We tested the PowerBlock with quite a few extension boards and that should not happen at all.
Please contact me via email or webform (https://www.petrockblock.com/contact/) so that we can arrange a replacement.

There seemed to be some sort of network problem. Does the problem still exist for you?

Glad to hear that :-)

Hello everyone, in the end I will use Recalbox with two USB interfaces.
For me it is much easier.

Thank you all for the help, best regards.

Here's a link - retropie.org.uk/download.

Hello, I was looking into the firmware flashing options too for my Controlblock. Have anyone tried to flash with Arduino Uno as ISP or with the Arduino Nano Every?
As I have both it would be the fastest but I would love some help to do it right...

Thanks

try twisting your flat cable round thats usually the culprit

@paulmalko I am having a very similar problem. When you say you "re-imaged the SD card". What did you reimage it with? RetroPi, Raspbian, ...??? Any help would be appreciated.

Following. I'd like to do this too. Anyone tried it yet?

You could try and not connect the PowerBlock via the 2x6 pin header but connect the PowerBlock with jumper wires. You could then change the status and shutdown pins in the configuration accordingly.

@SuperPitendo Thank you so much for all the info and effort. Much appreciated!

Glad to hear!