@darksavior Just wanted to say thanks for the help. I don't know how I got myself so confused about the 2 drivers?
I uninstalled snesdev and tried again. It helped a little but the controller still wasn't working properly. The thing is, I'd left the wires I'd soldered on quite long, to make moving things around easier, and the wire I'd used wasn't of the best quality. I re-soldered a ribbon cable that was half the length of the old cable I'd used, connected it up as per the gamecon diagram, with just the gamecon driver installed and now everything's working.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

@thedatacereal said in Pi Zero and Performance... Can anyone clear it up?:

My pi zero runs snes perfectly fine with a standard PI 1/zero build

This probably depends on the game and the personal "perfectly fine". Zelda 3 on SNES had < 45 fps in the starting area outside the house on 1080p. With 720p it has nearly 60 fps.

well I feel like a dolt,

seems that it was that at some point I did a find and replace on the .zip files to match my .7z roms, then I guess when I went back in to edit I did a find and replace on the .bin files and changed them also to .7z.... I guess that was confusing it. Thanks for the help simonster, thats a nice command I didn't know. I've got it working again.

@eldrethor Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. I'm more concerned with performance than recreating exactly how the game felt on the original hardware, but I understand how those who want the pure experience go with lr-snes9x. I personally don't feel like I should overclock for SNES games (partly because I can't find a consensus on a safe OC), so I will probably be sticking with the default emulator. So far it has handled everything thrown at it, but if at any point I become more concerned with accuracy I know what to use.

Thanks

@zippiz you shouldnt ever duplicate threads. The mods will move it when they come across it.

@nounours You'll be looking for continuity from the traces on the cart pcb. You'll also have to desolder chips or remove them from the circuit by scratching out the traces or they'll interfere. You need a clear trace or the USB stick will be hard to read.

Look at the pic of my cart. Traces go from the front of the cart to the back and to the front again. Try and find the 4 shortest traces for less interference. Thats what the multimeter will do to make your life easier. If it beeps from one end to the other then it should work.

There are solder points very near to the cart pins too. You can use those but you must use the same pins for all the carts, of course. Depending on the cart, those might be the best to use. Here is an example. 4 short traces. Then the traces are scratched out from the back out so they're cut off from the rest of the circuit for less interefence.

0_1500651011975_20160708_233847.jpg

@ruckage nicely done and good find with the shorter cable - I'm gonna pick one of those up for myself.

Thanks guys. Yes - I'm using a Mac to copy over the files. Will use windows from now on.
Thanks again.

@chadz yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyESSSSSSS

@herb_fargus Thanks! I had considered doing just that when I was making the first one, but I decided that I should use up the couple of knock-off SNES controllers I had kicking around. When I made my final template, I actually put the holes for the USB port on both sides so that if I revisit this, I could just make a double USB version. I hadn't thought of a quadruple USB version, but that would certainly work as well.

@NoOddJob as @polish-potato said. On any mayflash adapters i have used, player 1 and 2 are backward. If that
isnt it then re set up your controller. Write down what numbers all the buttons are. Now open up the

/opt/retropie/configs/all/retroarch/autoconfig/

folder. Now find the configs for your controllers. Verify if if the numbers match. If they do then run

sudo jstest /dev/input/js0

Now push the buttons and verify if the buttons match there. If they dont, then change your config file to match the jstest.

@petrockblog Thanks for the confirmation.

By the way, I received the ControBlock that you gifted me with. I truly appreciate the gesture. Thank you so much!!! I will definitely put it to good use.

@backstander
It's the layout of most PS3/4 fighting stick (including Hori).
But Retroarch has a native option to switch to

Y X R1 R2 B A L1 L2

Very useful for street fighter like controls :)

@PetroRie said in SNES Mini Announcement:

I also don't like what scalpers are doing, they're even listing the SNES mini on eBay while they don't even own the thing?!?!

http://www.gamesindustry.biz/articles/2017-07-06-ebay-pulls-snes-mini-listings-in-attempts-to-counter-scalpers

As of this week, RetroArch supports multiple mice in all cores that have their own support for one or more mice. As long as the original emulator that the libretro core is based on has mouse support, the libretro version should as well.

If a core which should have mouse support doesn't work when thus configured, there is at least one libretro dev who is actively looking for cores to fix for mouse support, so new github issues are welcome.

In other words: what are you trying to do that isn't working?

Have you tried setting audio_sync to on in RetroArch? I'm not sure it solves the same thing you're experiencing, but I had audio distortion when frame rates skipped and this helped a bit. It was a long time ago so I might be misremembering things though.