The 3D Plans are now available here

http://www.daftmike.com/p/nespi-electronics-kit.html

@stahl80 thanks!

Great build! Would like to do a similar one day!

@FliP That is doable with ease
Take a look at my latest build, that's close to yours you want to do!

Nice work! I do love the look of the first generation Megadrive. Can you show some more details or close ups (if you have them) on how you wired up the original power switch. Did you cut the section of the original motherboard that had the switch on it away or did you de-solder the switch (or even just got with a new switch altogether)? As you know from my thread I'm planning on doing something similar with a MegaDrive 2.

@spannernick1 said in Pi2 in a Mega Drive 2 - advice needed:

Mayflash USB MD adapter

Ah thank you! Yeah I also prefer the look of the MD1 but my MD1 is still working so would feel bad about using it. Same reason I haven't gone for a SNES as I only have a working one and the price of even broken retro consoles seems to have gone pretty high these days!

I hadn't heard about the Mayflash USB MD adapter but it's a very good idea, did you have any issues with that working with RetroPie on the various (8-bit and 16-bit) emulators?

@Floob said in Trying to sell a Custom Retropie powered case:

What sort of price should I be looking at for Pi3 machine, with two controllers, memory card, hdmi cable and retro pie fully configured? Was looking on eBay and I really don't want to faff about building/setting up. Just want to put roms on it and play.

I've made several consoles for friend's and relative's birthdays with a fully configured retropie setup that I've spent many hours perfecting and tweaking. I've had multiple colleagues and other buddies say they would definitely be willing to purchase these machines to avoid having to do any setup.

I have to disagree with @jamesbeat sentiment that it's ridiculously easy to setup. It isn't if you want it to be as idiot proof and less prone to breaking/getting stuck as possible. There is most definitely a market for it.

Hell I was thinking about hoping to sell them myself after being encouraged to, with the caveat that I don't care how many copies you make of the image, whether you give it to your friends, as I don't own it, I just spent a long time making it a little more consumer friendly. To my mind, that's the only thing I would be selling - cost of materials plus labour doing something that a large portion of people don't want to have to do, i.e. build parts, install, config, tweak, make nice. How is that any different from say, paying someone to build you a PC from various parts and then installing Windows on it, and then shipping it to you in a functional state?

Maybe I'm just ignorant, but it seems like there's definitely a grey area there.

So...
Today I installed the littel "I2S+Amp" device (called Adafruit MAX98357 I2S) in my latest build. The static sound is completly gone! It's crystal clear sound. I got two more wires to solder to my RPi. GPIO18 is used as usal, GPIO19 and GPIO21 are added.
The power is used from the old PAM module, no need to power it from the Pi by wiring PIN1 and a ground Pin.

Definitly worth the money :)

@obsidianspider i think most prints shops is totally cool with it. I would even think its legal for personal use. Depends on country i guess.

Perfect!

AMAZING project build mate!!! I love it!!! #props :)

Feel free to use the photos. I threw a towel down on the table to stop screws and bolts from rolling around. So, I don't really have a blue and white striped table top. lol. I had to pause the video every couple minutes to allow myself to catch up with the video and to take pictures.

@dancingmexican

That's the powerblock that does all the clever work for that. There are a couple of pins out for the switch - the actual switch itself, and the LED pins. (you can kind of see them in the photo below, although I have connectors plugged on to them)

When powering up the powerblock pulses the LED, then when it's on, it's steady, then on shutdown it pulses it (slower I think).

As it's just a couple of pins on the Powerblock, you can connect any LED to it - doesn't have to be the LED in the button, so I guess you could connect a whole bunch of LEDs to that and they would all pulse on startup, be steady on power on, and pulse again on shut-down.

I probably wouldn't try to run a Christmas tree off of those two pins, but if it's just a few additional LEDs it should be fine I would think.

Anything running of the normal rpi USB ports though (like my marquee light and couple of illuminated buttons) is just on all the time (when the rpi is powered on). Actually they flash a couple of times on boot up, I'm not sure why that is.

I've refined my LED power switch now, and upgraded to a chrome one. Also shortened the cabling and heat shrinked it as it was very messy.

I still have some spare ones (green plastic LED latching buttons) if you want one. I made a couple of shorter 20cm ones and also no longer need my old ridiculously long cable one (as seen in that video!). If you want one, drop me an email at GtB at GtBFilms dot co dot uk and I'll stick one in the post.

0_1475074872315_Chromebutton1.jpg

0_1475074884610_powerblock.jpg

0_1475074890400_powercables.jpg

@suprjami Thank you, taking a picture would be most beneficial, so could you please label it with the measurements you mentioned above, as well as thickness of the cartridge, width of the cartridge slot, and the distance between the back of the cart and the cartridge slot. If you could also send me the distance between the bottom of the cart and the bottom of the label, that would be very helpful. Thank you very much for your assistance.

Well take a look at my latest build. You just have to connect one Bluetooth stick and can buy two controllers. The build provides good portability and does not cost so much.

Anyway your design idea looks great but for what do you need annother OS? RetroPie is based an Raspian and you can install a GUI :)

@enlikil I thought about installing 4-ways on the vertical ends as that would satisfy a lot of classics. My problem is that I have mutually exclusive controller needs. For example, if I did this, how could I play 4 player Gauntlet, or use all four sticks in two-player Smash TV? Without a switching joystick it's a compromise I guess.

@Morph-X said in Pi3 Super Famicom Build:

This is a great build! I especially like the fact that you managed to squeeze everything in while still maintaining the cartridge eject function. Very nicely done!

Thank you.

I feel as though you could have done a slightly better job with the ports in the back, it looks a bit rough compared to the rest. But overall this is an impressive build!

I agree, I'm surprise I was able to kept it in one piece with the few slip up making it.
It was better for me to just leave it be then lose any more integrity with the plastic.

@backstander
Thank you!! As obsidianspider already mentioned, i wired the RESET button directly to the RUN header of the Raspi. So it functions merely as a power interrupt.

@mattrixk
Thanks a lot! That's really nice of you to say. It's great to see my work is appreciated by people "in the business". ;-)